NSWalter Loc: The West

A few framing questions – posed for whatever information you wish to throw in.
I am planning on printing and framing some of my pictures at 8 by 10 (even if they are not 100%).
Where are you sourcing your frames from? Local store or online wholesale?
If you want to get more than 5 the same at one time?
Non glare or standard glass or even no glass?
Glass or some composite?
Acid free mat required?
Are your mats less than 8 by 10 or does your 8 by 10 fall thru the mat?
How do you prevent the picture from buckling?
How do you prevent the picture from sliding?
Any other concerns I have missed?

I have taken delivery of a 4 different styles from one online wholesale house. #1 – the mat is not really the right size. #2 is not too bad at first look. Have not opened or tried #3 & 4 yet. Will give more later.

EstherP

Some of these questions can only be answered with "it depends"...



If you want to use ready-made frames, I'd select a local store - I like to see my photo with the frame before handing over my money.

More than 5 the same frames... Talk to the seller, they may give a quantity discount, although from what I've seen you'd probably have to buy more than 10.

Glass - It depends a great deal on where the picture is going to be viewed, and how much money you want to spend. Also keep in mind that the less-expensive non-glare glass "softens" the image, the more-expensive is supposed to prevent that.
Also look into anti-UV glass, to help prevent your image from fading.
If you are going the glass-way, put spacers between the photo and the glass, if you don't the photo is guaranteed to eventually stick to the glass permanently (and "eventually" is not very far away!).

I've never used composites, can't comment on those.

Acid- and lignum free mat: How long do you want your image to keep without deterioration? Although I have been told that the newest photo papers are not affected by acid and lignum. Ask your dealer.

For any size image, the hole in the mat should be slightly smaller than the image itself.

To keep the image from buckling, have it dry-mounted to core-board. This is not a job to be done at home.

To stop the picture from sliding, fill up the space around the picture and behind the mat with material the same thickness as the picture.
If it's drymounted, use strips of left-over core-board.

If you're serious about matting and framing and plan to do a lot of it, you may want to investigate possible classes in your area. If they are given by a framing studio, there is a possibility they will let you use their studio and equipment for a small price, and allow you to purchase the materials at a discount.

EstherP

Tea8 Loc: Where the wind comes sweeping down the plain.

Awesome advice EstherP. I am going to bookmark this thread so I can come back to it later. I have gotten better advice out of you than I have gotten when I went to have things framed in my area.(Didn't end up using and of those people and still have them left to do.)

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

to add to the above, I do all my own mounting and matting, cut the core board, or mounting board the same size as will fit the frame, dry mount (press) or spray mount centered (quite easy if your a clean/neat worker)which will keep it centered and free from buckling. Cut your own mats (also quite simple)supplies and cutters can be had at a good art supply store. Mat will be same size as mounting board, keeping it centered in frame As far as the opening, I usually make it 1/8" smaller (ea side), total 1/4" smaller than the image itself, If you don't want to loose any of the image, print full bleed (no border) or on over sized paper and print larger than planned opening) If you do this a lot have the time, you'll save yourself enough $$$ in a short time to buy that new lens you've always wanted.

str8aro Loc: North Carolina

Here's what I do,
1.) Measure size of opening I need for picture
2.) Add 2 x mat width to each side
3.) Order custom frame from pictureframes.com
4.) Cut my own mat with $199.00 cutter (Matco)
5.) Order glass from local Window/Glass/Mirror store, not from the local hardware store (rhymes with FACE).
Regular 'buffered' matboard is good for at least 40 yrs, usually long enough.
I also spary mount using Scotch 77.

amyinsparta Loc: White county, TN

If you have a Hobby Lobby or Michaels, or equivalent, check out their frames. They have cheap ones and expensive ones. Hobby Lobby also has buko mats for 8x10 that are not that expensive. I once read a piece on a photographer and she said she used those very inexpensive black frames so that people would concentrate on the photo rather than the frame.

bee7474 Loc: Selah, Wa

Hi, first I cut my own mats with a Logan cutting board, perfect almost every time. Then I go to a Craftware House store and buy off the shelf frames when they have the 40% off sale. That cost is about 22.00. Good luck. Bee

camigo Loc: Lincoln Ne

Check second hand stores, and garage sales, they usually have frames at very good prices, some even have mats on them, and if u r lucky enough maybe antiqued.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

If you value your photographs, you should always use acid-free matboard AND foamcore. Not all mats sold at Hobby Lobby and Michaels are acid-free. If the foamcore is slick on either side, it is definitely NOT acid free.

If you don't want to dry-mount your photos, you can hinge-mount them using acid-free hinging tape. It will allow your photos to expand and contract with climate changes, but you'll avoid the pitfalls of dry-mounting. I do both, depending on my time and mood!

There are lots of good how-tos on the 'net on framing, matting and mounting. I recommend you spend some time reading them.

Be careful about using second-hand mats, so you have no clue of their composition.

Using double mats will make the photo be far enough from the glass that you won't need spacers.

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

The matt hole must be about 1/4" less per side than your print so there is an edge to overlap the print. On something like an 8X10 I typically use pieces of Scotch tape on all four sides to keep the print in place. A piece of thin cardboard bigger than the print Scotch taped over the back of the print keeps it from buckling.

Pretty nice frames are available at craft stores like Michael's or at WalMart, K-Mart, and Target. A store as big as WalMart will have several of the same frame on display to buy or you can usually hit two or three of the area big box stores (good reason to have a motorcycle getting 56 mpg!) to acquire as many as you need. That's the advantage of a large chain having pretty much the same SKU-numbered products in all stores.

A lot of times I frame 8X10 without mattes because I like the look of the whole picture revealed and not puckering it down to 7.5" X 9.5" with the lost 1/4 edges. The last time I did a group of 8X10s I found a stamped black plastic frame I liked that only had a very thin outer edge box for the print to go down into. The whole front was glass that snapped into the outer frame from the front so the whole print was revealed. The glass pressed against the print to keep it from buckling. I bought 10 of them for $2 each at a Ohio/Michigan based grocery chain that has their huge stores split into 1/2 groceries and 1/2 everything else in the world - somewhat the same design as a WalMart Super Store but smaller.

From 11X14 upward it's a whole different story. I like to use a 16X20 frame with matte for an 11X14 print or a 20X24 frame with matte for a 16X20 print. Acid free matte is personal choice of whether you think the photo will be relevant for 200 years or if its just for your living room until your grand kids throw it away before the estate yard sale later.

For a 20X24 or larger, I like a canvas "wrap" which you would have made for you by a lab. No outer frame, no gloss finish, no glass, no mat, no nothing. Just canvas stretched on a wood frame which gives an "art" appearance.

Just remember to keep your prints out of direct sunlight because they'll fade. Glass over the prints helps reduce that but it still happens.

NSWalter Loc: The West

Thanks to all for looking and to all for posting their reply.

My intention was twofold - to learn what I could, and to promote thinking and discussion.

I think it worked.