bodiebill wrote:
Why do Hot shoes differ in design?
My Vivitar Electronic Flash unit #283 has a single contact and the #550 FD has 7 small contacts.
My Sony Camera has a single contact, while my Canon Rebel T6i has a large contact and 4 small.
Should the flash unit be camera specific?
No standardization?
There are both "dedicated" and "non-dedicated" flashes. Older flashes were largely "non-dedicated". Most (but not all) modern flashes are dedicated and system-specific.
Most (but not all) cameras with a hot shoe are able to work with non-dedicated. But you need to be careful!
1. NON-DEDICATED FLASHES
"Non-dedicated" flashes have two electrical contacts... One is the the larger "button" in the center and the other is the metal rails along the sides that the flash slides into.
Many non-dedicated flashes at "thyristor" type, with a built-in self metering system to control their output with a rather crude form of automation. They also can be used fully manually.
IMPORTANT: Old non-dedicated flashes can damage modern cameras! Some old flashes that were made when cameras were largely mechanical use a high "trigger voltage" that can do damage to today's highly electronic cameras. THE VIVITAR 283 IS KNOWN TO HAVE HIGH TRIGGER VOLTAGE. That particular model was made over a long period of time and it's measured trigger voltage varies a lot, depending upon when and where it was made. Early 283 models been found to have had as high as 600 volts! Some other have been in the 250 to 290 volt ranges. Some 283 made after 1987 and marked "Made in China" or "Made in Korea" have tested with quite low trigger voltage, under 10 volts.
Many modern (post-2004) cameras such as your Canon T6i are designed to tolerate up to 250 volts. (In the late 1990s and early 2000s there were some cameras that could only handle 6 volts!)
If your flash has too high trigger voltage for your camera, repeated use of it will very likely eventually damage the camera's electronics.
Before using a Vivitar 283 in a modern camera I would measure it's trigger voltage, to be safe. A digital voltage ohm meter (VOM) is used to do that test. Those can be bought, though a local camera repairer or electronics shop may be able to do the measurement for you.
There are products such as Wein Safe Sync that fit between flash and camera to regulate the trigger voltage and prevent damage.
There are also some "semi-dedicated" flashes from years past, which basically work the same as fully non-dedicated, except they might have one or two relatively minor, added features such as a "flash ready" alert in the camera's viewfinder. In addition, there were flashes with user interchangeable modules that made them fully non-dedicated or provided some semi-dedicated features with various camera systems and models.
2. DEDICATED FLASH
These are typically more expensive but also offer far more advanced functionality. They are VERY system-specific. A dedicated flash made to work with a Sony cameras will no work with Canon cameras, and vice versa. The camera manufacturer themselves offer these, of course. But there are also numerous third party flash manufacturers making dedicated flash for various caemra systems.
Today these flash offer through the lens meter... the camera measures the exposure and adjusts the flash output appropriately. Canon, for example, calls their flash system "ETTL" or "ETTL II" in more recent cameras and flashes. Some systems (such as ETTL II) even take into account distance, as measured by the lens when it auto focuses on the subject. This gives far more precise control over flash exposure. Other functions might include automatic adjustment of the flash's zoom head setting to match lens focal length, 2nd curtain sync, high speed sync, stroboscopic multi-expsoure effects and more.
These flash need to have additional electrical contacts in the camera's hot shoe, in order for the camera and flash to communicate with each other.
It's rare, but a few cameras may have been deliberately designed to NOT be able to use non-dedicated flashes. For example, it's been observed that Canon's SL3 (aka EOS 250D) lacks that large, center button needed to fire many flashes. So that camera will only be able to trigger Canon brand dedicated flashes (some or all third party Canon-dedicated flash may work too... I don't have that camera, so can't say for certain).
https://www.canonnews.com/canon-changed-their-hotshoe-on-the-sl3-a-problem Hope this helps!
IMPORTANT: Again, you
definitely need to check your Vivitar 283's trigger voltage to be sure it's safe to use in your cameras.
User ID wrote:
...Caution: 283s had various trigger voltages over the years from about 100v down to about 20v.
Actually 283 have tested as high as 600V and as low as 5 or 6V, depending upon when and where they were made. There are a LOT of 283 around. They have been very popular over the years and were manufactured for a long, long time. (I used the similar Vivitar 285 and 285HV for many years, as well as the smaller Vivitar 2400.)
I don't know what Sony's trigger voltage limit is. You might be able to find out looking in their camera manuals.
Back in 2004 Canon increased their camera's trigger voltage tolerance from only 6V to 250V, so that's the max your T6i is designed to handle. (Nikon did something similar with their cameras about the same time and also can handle up to 250V.)
So long as your 283's trigger voltage is below that 250V, it's probably safe to use directly in the T6i. Hopefully it's significantly below that. If you find your 283 has trigger voltage close to or more than 250V, you can still used it on the T6i, but I would strongly recommend also using something like Safe Sync to protect the camera.
Again, I don't know Sony's flash trigger voltage tolerance, so you should research that.
FYI: The International Standards Organization set a recommended minimum 24V trigger voltage tolerance in cameras around that time. Note that this is just a recommendation. Nikon and Canon apparently went way beyond that as a precaution. I simply don't know if Sony and other camera manufacturers have done the same.
There's more info about flash trigger voltage here:
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.htmlAnd here there's info how to check trigger voltage yourself (with an inexpensive digital VOM):
http://dpanswers.com/content/genrc_flash_measuretv.php