newtoyou Loc: Eastport

Am about to pick up a Canon EOS M 5D. With the 15-45 kit lens and an expensive Canon (explains the expensive, $75 for the Canon logo) carrying case and batteries, etc.
And an 18-200 mm " over $1000 foot long lens".
The deal is a good one if the camera and lenses are what I expect.
His reference is a mutual friend.
Money may exchange hands Wednesday when I get a hands on look.
My questions:
Is this a mirrorless? It seems to be in the specs, but double checking.
That means my many Canon FD lenses will work with an adapter?
Last, what is your opinion of this camera?
I am not looking for comparisons, but info on this camera.
Thank you
Bill

Muddyvalley Loc: McMinnville, Oregon

Will this help?

Mount Almost Any Lens on your Canon EOS M Camera with Fotodiox Canon EOS M Lens Adapters
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyMwWsG--54

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Yes, your FD lenses will work, with the appropriate adapter. Being a cropped sensor, the Canon 1.6 crop factor will apply to your full-frame focal lengths, where say an FD 50mm f/1.8 will seem like an 80mm lens (50mm x 1.6 = 80mm).

Yes, the Canon EOS M5 is a 24MP mirrorless camera, well regarded.

bluezzzzz Loc: Stamping Ground, KY

The "D" in the OP's original question is worrying.

There is a Canon M5 and there is a Canon 5D (I,II,III,or IV), but I don't think there is a Canon M 5D.

Hope the OP gets what he thinks he's getting.

Marshall

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

I was curious about that nomenclature also.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

The OP says it comes with the 15-45 kit lens typical for the M body and an 18-200 , neither of which are full-frame lenses, so I suspect the "D" is an accidental red herring.

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

Yep.
My need for new glasses is glaringly apparent.
It is an EOS M 50.
I have a 5D, also. 10.1mp
Thanks, all.
Wednesday will tell.
Bill

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Bill, what a great opportunity you have as the Game Show says, "If the Price is Right." Because a mirrorless camera will display 'what you see is what you get' it's a real help in getting the shot right more often.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Just remember as you contemplate using your FD lenses, that you will not only need to manually focus, but also manually stop down the lens before shooting or leave it stopped down while focusing (which can be a real problem with a dim viewfinder). Having to manually open the aperture, manually focus and then manually stop down before exposing every shot takes time, so OK for landscapes and still photography, but you can miss a lot of good shots while doing all that. Unless your FDs are very special lenses, you might just consider selling them and buying M lenses, remembering that coatings and lens technology has moved on since the FD Mount was replaced decades ago.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Considers some other ideas that are specific to mirrorless bodies and FD lenses:

First, put the mirrorless camera on AUTO ISO with a bit of EC (+0.7 typically) and you'll get a reasonably 'bright' view finder and the mirrorless camera shows you exactly what the resulting image is going to look like in the EVF (or on the backside LCD). If you're shooting something dark, you can just "pump-up" the Exposure Compensation (EC), as needed to see the precise focus, then return the EC to your typical value. If the EC is over exposing for a high contrast situation, just lower / adjust for that situation, restore when appropriate.

Regarding movement of the aperture ring, just set the lens aperture where you want it for the composition and shoot, see comment above. AUTO ISO is very useful for this usage, where the camera dynamically compensates for your aperture changes on the lens. The mirrorless meters the light as hitting the sensor, with any adjustments made in the settings, like some positive EC. I use primarily shutter priority with my Sony a7II and FD lenses, but Aperture priority is useful too. In Aperture priority, the camera will try to keep the ISO at ISO-100 (or the camera's base ISO). But, sometimes the shutter will get too slow, even for the IBIS or maybe for subject movement. Then, changing to shutter priority is more useful, especially when you need to control the shutterspeed for the subject. I've been shooting more flowers, bugs and birds of late, where I need to control a faster shutter to freeze the action.

For the Sony, you need to tell the camera the lens focal length for the IBIS to adjust properly. See if this feature exists for the EOS M too, where the crop factor should be applied to the focal length specified (example: 50 x 1.6 = 80).

Be sure to use the EVF 10x zoom for focusing. If you shoot in RAW, set the sharpening to max if the EOS has some form of 'focus indicator'. For my Sony, the 'plane of focus' is highlighted in the viewfinder. If I'm not using the 10x in the view finder, you can see a 'shimmer' of color (I'm using red) in the EVF where the camera senses the image is focused. Setting the sharpening to the max makes this shimmer more pronounced (most RAW editors do not 'receive' the sharpening setting from the camera anyways). I still prefer the more precise 10x zoom, but once I've focused precisely, the shimmering tells me where / how I've adjusted the focus point for subsequent shots of the same subject and distance. The more you let the camera manage the exposure, the manual focus lenses become relatively easy to use where you're just concerned about focusing and shooting, occasionally adjusting the aperture.

Assuming you buy this camera, see the MF Peaking settings and Magnifying Frame in the PDF manual for the shimmer and 10x topics mentioned above.

cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX

To what are you wishing to conform?

aellman Loc: Boston MA

For those apparently not educated in hardware matters: there is the little-known limited edition Canon "Mashup" model which contains selected components of both cameras and has the product name with the "D" as first indicated by the OP. >Alan

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

I caught that too late.
Was married to a teacher, too.
Confirm was intended.
But you knew that.
Bill

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

Thanks, all.
What I learned so far is that I still, and will, have a lot to learn.
I have gear that I am selling, a T2I and a XSI. Make room and money at same time.
Thanks again, I'll still be watching this post. Seems I made a good choice.
More Wednesday.
Bill

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

You probably mean a Canon M5 or M50. There's no such thing as an "M 5D".

There are "5D", full frame DSLRs... but if you are looking at getting the camera with 15-45mm lens, it has to be one of the crop sensor (APS-C) M-series mirrorless (there is no Canon 15-45mm lens for any of the DSLRs... they're typically sold with an 18-55mm or a more premium 18-135mm).

I recently got an M5 and really like it. Yes, it is a mirrorless camera (as are the M50, M6 Mark II and M100 models that Canon currently offers).

DO NOT get the EF-S 18-200mm lens. That lens is for the DSLRs and while it's possible to adapt it for use on the M-series mirrorless, there are better options.

There is a Tamron 18-200mm Di III VC lens available for use on Canon M-series. But I would try to steer you away from that, too. There is a less expensive, and likely better option.

The EF-M 15-45mm lens that typically comes with the camera serves as a "mildly wide to very short telephoto" zoom. If you want a more powerful telephoto, why not get the EF-M 55-200mm. It's smaller, lighter, less expensive than the Tamron 18-200mm. It might even offer better image quality. I found some reviews of the Tamron 18-200mm Di III... But none gave any standardized image quality tests. Unfortunately the site where I usually compare image quality test shots hasn't done a series with it. They have tested the older Tamron 18-200mm for DSLRs, which wasn't particularly good. The Canon EF-M 55-200mm has noticeably better image quality at all the focal lengths they share. But the newer Tamron 18-200mm III might use different optical formula and be improved... I don't know. But that sort of very broad ranging zoom usually compromises in a lot of ways. A less extreme zoom like the 55-200mm is likely to have much better image quality.

The Canon EF-M 55-200mm IS STM lens sells for $349.

The Tamron 18-200mm Di III VC zoom sells for $499.

Yes, you can get an adapter that allows Canon FD lenses to be used on the M-series cameras. They will be manual focus AND fully manual aperture ONLY. Look for an "FD to EF-M" adapter.

As you stop the lens down, the viewfinder will dim down along with it (the adapted lens is not maintained open until the moment of exposure, the way modern lenses are). This is okay because the electronic viewfinder of the M5 gives you "exposure preview" and will allow you to see to focus. It also has "focus peaking", where objects that are in focus are outlined in a color to help with manual focus (you can choose yellow, red or blue.... and can change it for different situations... I use yellow most of the time).

You can use the camera in fully Manual exposure mode with adapted lenses. You also can get auto exposure using Aperture Priority (Av) mode. In that mode you choose the ISO, select the aperture and the camera determines what shutter speed to use, based upon it's metering system. (The M5 has an Exposure Compensation dial on the top right, that you'll want to learn to use with auto exposure modes.) It also is possible to get auto exposure setting the camera to M (manual) and enabling Auto ISO (simply dial the ISO setting all the way down past 100, until "A" appears). Even though it's Manual, once Auto ISO is enabled it becomes an AE mode, too. And this also works with adapted vintage lenses. In M + Auto ISO mode, you select both the aperture and the shutter speed, while the camera choose what ISO to use, based upon it's metering system.

With adapted manual aperture lenses you CANNOT use Shutter Priority AE (Tv), Program (P), full "Auto" or any of the "Scene" modes ("sports", "scenic", "portrait", etc.)

IMPORTANT: To use an adapted manual aperture lens on the camera, you MUST go into the menu and set the camera to "shoot without lens". By default the camera won't want to release the shutter when it doesn't detect an electronically controlled lens installed. The adapted lenses (as well as some modern manual focus/manual aperture lenses) aren't "recognized" by the camera. But they work just fine once you make this setting.

Your EF-M lenses such as the 15-45mm and 55-200mm will be usable in all the exposure modes, recognized by the camera and you will use the dials and buttons on the camera to change settings. Auto focus will also work, of course. (You should read up on the camera's AF settings. For example, you can set it up so that moving your finger on the rear LCD screen will change the selected AF point. To keep your nose from changing the selection, you can restrict this to one quadrant of the LCD screen... I'd recommend the upper right since that falls right under your thumb while you are holding the camera with your eye in the viewfinder.)

You're likely to want at least one spare battery. The electronic viewfinder is a neat feature, but it draws a lot of power, so you don't get many shots per charge. The LP-E17 battery isn't cheap, but no one makes them other than Canon. So there's no real alternative. They work well and can be recharged hundreds of times, so it's almost a one-time purchase.

You also will need some SD memory cards. I recommend good quality 16GB or 32 GB. There are larger cards available, but using one of those is like putting all your eggs in one basket. If the card fails (rarely happens) or you lose it (happens more often)... or you forget and leave it in a pocket of a pair of jeans that get laundered (happens, but usually doesn't damage the card)... it can be a real disaster if you have a really big card with many days or weeks worth of images on it! That's why I carry four to six smaller memory cards per camera, rather than a single really big one in each. I shoot RAW (larger file sizes) with M5 and get close to 900 images on a 32GB memory card. JPEGs would get even more per card.

The two lenses you're considering will be great to start with. Later you might want others... just don't add too many too fast. Have some fun adapting your vintage lenses, too. BTW, because the M5 is an APS-C "crop" camera, your vintage lenses will "act longer" than you remember. For example, a 50mm will be a "short telephoto" instead of a "normal" lens. A wide lens will no longer be very wide.... A 21mm will "act like" a much less wide 35mm lens (approx.). But telephotos will be "more powerful".... A 200mm will "act like a 320mm" did on your film camera.

If you ever want a wider lens, check out the Canon EF-M 11 -22mm. It's a great lens! It's the sharpest of any of the ultrawide zooms Canon makes for crop sensor cameras (which is saying a lot, because the EF-S 10-18mm and EF-S 10-22mm for the DSLRs are among the best anyone makes).

There aren't a whole lot of EF-M lenses anyway. Canon currently offers 7 or 8 of them. Sigma just introduced a 16mm (wide), 30mm (normal) and 56mm (short telephoto) that are among the first from a 3rd party manufacturer with autofocus that appear to be excellent. Tamron just makes the one lens (18-200mm). There are a bunch of manual focus only... and a HUGE selection of vintage lenses that can easily be adapter and used as described above.

So far I've been working with four manual focus/manual aperture lenses....

12mm f/2.8 Meike
21mm f/2.0 Rokinon
50mm f/1.1 Kanlan
90mm f/2.5 Tamron (vintage, macro)

I may add the 11-22mm and some other autofocus lenses in the future (I had forgotten how HARD it is to manually focus ).

EDIT: I just saw your followup that you have a couple older Canon DSLRs. The crop of the M5 will be the same as those, but the newer M5 has much higher resolution sensor. Also, any lenses you have for those cameras probably can be adapted for use on the M5. Canon themselves make an EF/EF-S to EF-M adapter, but there good 3rd party manufactured available for a lot less $. I said "probably" above because while all Canon EF or EF-S lenses will adapt and work fine... Not all older model 3rd party lenses work properly when adapted. Most are fine. But some won't focus or have other "glitches".

Good luck with your purchase!