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Another lens or a 2nd camera body?
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May 18, 2020 18:30:54   #
charlienow Loc: Hershey, PA
 
kb6kgx wrote:
Not for money, strictly volunteer and on my own time. We're coming up to what looks to be another active "fire season". We had a fairly wet winter and all that nice, green growth is going to dry up and become good tinder later in the summer and fall.


I think that if I were in your position I would go for an 18-300. The best one that is in your budget. Two bodies are nice but is cumbersome to lug around. Did that in film days doing pr and newspaper photography. Did not like changing lenses in the field.

Chuck

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May 18, 2020 18:34:58   #
kb6kgx Loc: Simi Valley, CA
 
DeanS wrote:
Flexibility and backup says second body.
Frugality and convenience says get Tammy 18-300.
Your call of course.


Fortunately my credit cards are all paid off and, although I’m all about not spending foolishly or needlessly, flexibility and backup wins over frugality.

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May 18, 2020 19:28:02   #
uhaas2009
 
I have the 7000 and the 810. The 810 give me way more Freedom -first if I shoot “wider” and crop there is still “enough” pics left. The focus system is way stronger, too and I can shoot in higher ISO too. I bought my 810 used.

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May 18, 2020 19:34:06   #
DeanS Loc: Capital City area of North Carolina
 
kb6kgx wrote:
Fortunately my credit cards are all paid off and, although I’m all about not spending foolishly or needlessly, flexibility and backup wins over frugality.


Enjoy!

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May 18, 2020 19:42:37   #
Photocraig
 
quixdraw wrote:
I've shot two bodies since film days. One body will always work, and under nasty conditions you don't have to open the camera to the elements. Carry two and use both interchangeably. You will nearly always get the shot. I have a shoulder bag, ThinkTank, that holds two bodies with lenses mounted - opens away from the body. That speeds things up.


My Think Tank "Sling Bag," also might be convenient for this task too. @ bodies durning my film days ws essential. Never missed a shot (well mostly when I was paying attention).

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May 18, 2020 19:47:14   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
Photocraig wrote:
My Think Tank "Sling Bag," also might be convenient for this task too. @ bodies durning my film days ws essential. Never missed a shot (well mostly when I was paying attention).


I got a sling bag maybe 10 years ago. One strap over one shoulder. The bag hangs on your back like a backpack. When you need to get into it, you slide it around so it's hanging in the front. In that orientation the top opens so you can get into it without spilling everything. Holds 2 bodies with lenses and maybe another lens and a pile of other stuff (filters, speedlights, cards, batteries, a pocket for paperwork).

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May 18, 2020 19:55:19   #
Greer Loc: SOUTH GEORGIA
 
kb6kgx wrote:
Here's what I'm using: Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VRII and a Sigma 17-50mm f2.8. Yes, I know that the Nikon is a "FX" lens and the Sigma is a "DX" lens.

I am a photographer for my local county fire department. For helicopters and aerial tankers, nothing beats the 70-300. It gets the job done. For most everything else, the Sigma is great when I need to "go wide". Now, here's my question:

I'm tired of missing shots because of having to change lenses. I also don't want to have to change lenses when there is a lot of dust and burning things flying around in the air around me. Do I just add a second camera body and put a lens on each or do I keep both lenses in the bag and put on something like a Tamron 18-400? For this type of photography, I've never found that I need the extra 100mm that the Tamron would give, which makes my question a simple one of (1) second body or (2) super-zoom?
Here's what I'm using: Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70... (show quote)


Kbk6gx
Reading about your problem I have to put in my 2 cents. I have to advise, if getting a new camera, go with the full frame FX. I had been shooting pics for my local church with my trusty D7100. This kept me busy most if the time. The only lens I had for it was the $1,500 journalist lens (the 17-55mm DX). It’s a great lens but bought a 70-300 DX for personal reasons. I Loved it. When I decided to move up to full frame, I wasn’t to keen about the flagship D850’s price, so I justified getting the D750 by the fact that buying the D750 would give me a camera with many controls and features of the D7100 and at a reasonable price. I don’t like change. I do love the D750 as do a lot of people. It’s a very good camera at a very reasonable price. By the way, the D850 really is as good as its hyped to be. When D750 arrived I had to purchase my first FX lens as the other was the $1,500, 17-55mm DX and the 70-300 DX. I don’t do kit lenses. At least you have a great lens. I elected to go with the FX 50mm f/1.4. It’s been a great lens only now I’m shooting more wide angle photos and regret not getting the 35mm. Also added 85mm f/1.8. Couldn't justify the f/1.4’s price. If you can afford it and shoot lots if portraits, it preferable. Was shooting with the DX 70-300mm DX on my D750 the other day because I wanted to try BIF’s. (I know your not supposed to, but I did). Well, I thought the pics were nice but explained to wife why I had to have a new FX version. So, then saved and bought the FX 70-300 which was just a little faster than the DX version. The difference in quality literally blew me away. From now on every lens going on the grand D750 will be nothing but Nikon FX. you are not getting the quality from your pics you deserve when you put that Fax lens in your DX camera. Either splurge in moving up to full frame with new lenses or buy the Nikin DX 17-55mm lens (although I wouldn’t want to expose it to the elements you have described as it runs around $1,500 last time I checked.

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May 18, 2020 20:28:34   #
ronpier Loc: Poland Ohio
 
kb6kgx wrote:
Here's what I'm using: Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VRII and a Sigma 17-50mm f2.8. Yes, I know that the Nikon is a "FX" lens and the Sigma is a "DX" lens.

I am a photographer for my local county fire department. For helicopters and aerial tankers, nothing beats the 70-300. It gets the job done. For most everything else, the Sigma is great when I need to "go wide". Now, here's my question:

I'm tired of missing shots because of having to change lenses. I also don't want to have to change lenses when there is a lot of dust and burning things flying around in the air around me. Do I just add a second camera body and put a lens on each or do I keep both lenses in the bag and put on something like a Tamron 18-400? For this type of photography, I've never found that I need the extra 100mm that the Tamron would give, which makes my question a simple one of (1) second body or (2) super-zoom?
Here's what I'm using: Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70... (show quote)


Definitely a second body with a short/wide telezoom and a long one. No need to change lenses and helps to keep dust/dirt away from the sensors. Not changing lenses in the field has enabled me to not need a sensor cleaning in 15 years of shooting digital.

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May 18, 2020 22:25:25   #
lightyear
 
When I used two bodies, I had separate OpTech neck straps for each, one short . Wide angle on one, zoom tele on the other.
I had no problems with camera selection or use.

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May 19, 2020 06:10:56   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
Somebody mentioned the Nikon 18-300, but I've had great results with the 28-300mm.

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May 19, 2020 07:08:34   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
uhaas2009 wrote:
I have the 7000 and the 810. The 810 give me way more Freedom -first if I shoot “wider” and crop there is still “enough” pics left. The focus system is way stronger, too and I can shoot in higher ISO too. I bought my 810 used.


That is the other part of the two bodies question. A second identical body or do you want one crop and one full frame? There are pros and cons to both.

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May 19, 2020 07:17:16   #
NormanTheGr8 Loc: Racine, Wisconsin
 
I would go with the second body , As far as the 18-400 goes I really like that lens ( it pretty much lives on my second camera) on a crop body (Canon 7dmk2) but it does not do well in low light/action which could be the case quite often for your stated use though you would be able to get better overall results with time to learn the lens

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May 19, 2020 13:06:14   #
lwp99 Loc: East Valley of Phoenix, AZ
 
DirtFarmer wrote:
I have been shooting 2-3 bodies for several years now. I do events, and I don't want to change lenses because of the time involved. When things are fast paced, multiple bodies is the only way to go.

When I started, I had some trouble in post. Downloading image files from different cameras gave me a mixture of file names and it wasn't always easy to arrange them in chronological order. Of course in Lightroom or something similar you can sort by metadata. However I like to make it possible for others to do the sorting, so I change the file name at download. The new file name includes the subject, the date and time. I used to use an index number but that doesn't work well with multiple bodies. The date and time, written as YYYYMMDD HHmmSSss works pretty well. (SS is seconds and ss is hundredths of seconds which keeps bursts sorted).

I use Downloader Pro, which enables me to set up a template that automates downloads. I give the program a text string describing the subject. The program then takes the date and time from the EXIF data. At startup it will show me thumbnails of all the images on the card, and I can select individual images, or all from a given date, or spot images here and there. You can change file names in Lightroom but I think this program is more efficient and more flexible. I got it more than a decade ago so there are probably similar programs out there.
I have been shooting 2-3 bodies for several years ... (show quote)


DirtFarmer;
Is it the Downloader Pro which enables the YYYYMMDDHHmmSSss format? I have Canon cameras and Photoshop Elements and haven't been able to find that format. As you noted, this would help with sorting burst shots! Thanks.

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May 19, 2020 13:59:36   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
lwp99 wrote:
DirtFarmer;
Is it the Downloader Pro which enables the YYYYMMDDHHmmSSss format? I have Canon cameras and Photoshop Elements and haven't been able to find that format. As you noted, this would help with sorting burst shots! Thanks.


In the Downloader Pro preferences, I set up a template, which defines the final file name. (First image below).

The template is made up of tokens, which are delineated by {curly brackets} and are shown in the rest of the images below. {J} is the "job code", which is a text string that I use to describe the shoot. For a pro it might be an invoice number. e.g. Kitchen Door Lock 20200519 12403470 D800E 4225 was a photo of a lock cylinder that I need to replace.

As you can see, I download my files to an external drive (H:) and both the path and the file name are given in the template, so {Y} is YYYY, {m} is MM, {D} is DD, {t} is HHmmSS, {s} is ss. I also add the camera model {T} and the image number {r8} to the file name. (Note that the template is case sensitive).

All of the data come from the EXIF data in the file from the camera. There are a lot of things you could put into the file name if you really wanted to but I see limited utility in adding the ISO, aperture or shutter speed. If you are shooting multiple bodies of the same model, you might consider including the camera serial number.




(Download)


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May 19, 2020 14:39:39   #
lwp99 Loc: East Valley of Phoenix, AZ
 
Thanks! This is helpful. I've taken burst shots of whales breeching -- and the sequence is backwards! Confusing, but hasn't been the end of the world. Thanks, again!

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