BebuLamar

If I follow the meter I use A mode (aperture priority). If I need exposure compensation, meter with a separate meter or simply know the right exposure without the meter then I use M (Manual).
I never use the expose compensateur. It's much less convenient than simply using manual.

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

I shoot in manual mode all the time. I don't use Auto ISO either. I am in control of everything except my environment. However, I think everyone should shoot the way they are comfortable.

User ID

A, S, and P modes are nearly identical for an advanced user so there’s nothing special about A-mode ... thus there goes half of the OP puzzle.

If you set the AEL to “toggle” then ASP modes all become extra convenient versions of M-mode.

Don’t know how many cameras have similar functions to Lumix’s “one push AE” but that is another example of dissolving boundaries between auto and manual operation. One-push AE is an AE feature that’s only operational with the mode dial set to Manual. So okay, is it Manual or is it Auto ? It is neither ... it is just built-in common sense design.

Basically there is zero photographic difference between modes. The differences are just changes in the layout and location of your controls. No need to fuss over choice of modes from one type of scene or subject to another. Set up the exposure control for the USER, not for the shot ... and leave it that way. Period.

Perznally I find S-mode is the most versatile mode dial setting cuz, used intelligently, it contains all the other modes’ functions within it, including M-mode. Like they used to say in broadcasting, “Don’t touch that dial !”

User ID

Parrot Wisdom ! Sounds so right, doesn’t it. Yes it always does.

But it blatantly disregards the OP question by just inverting it ... by just restating a question as a declarative. Still no closer to even a partial answer.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Braaaaack..Thank you.
I appreciate your concern.

User ID

I think more users should shoot the way they are NOT so comfortable. Try it. You don’t hafta like it.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

I think users should try all modes and see which one(s) they like best.

gedgar2000

I stick mostly to Aperture mode. Because to me the ISO and shutter speeds will quickly become apparent. I think the Aperture is such a key variable, starting there works out easily.

If your situation is static, and you even have a tripod, you'll want the aperture you think is the sharpest one for your cameras, with a depth of field you need for your shot. F8 fits the bill a lot of times on my Nikon D810. You have the luxury of a low ISA so set it a 100. Now the shutter speed will be calculated for you. Since the scene is static and you're using a tripod, motion blur isn't an issue, nor is camera shake.
So the calculated shutter speed will usually be good. But it it's dark enough to want 30 seconds, you can open up the aperture if the of field is still good for you. And if you're in love with these aperture you picked, raising the ISO is the only game left. Noise is the penalty.

If I have a fast shot, of say racing cars, I know that I'm going to need the lowest ISO, so I start with a wide aperture. If I can take the shallow depth of field. Then I need to raise the ISO up to wear the shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the motion. I'll be thinking about noise reduction in post.

In short, aperture is a good starting point, and you let the camera do some work for you because of is ability to calculate the shutter speed. And ISO in auto ISO mode. If you are in auto ISO mode, then you look at the ISO the camera says you will need, and see if you can accept it. If its too high, and the noise that you anticipate scares you, then you need a larger aperture. And iterate in again. I don't see why you'd want tti go to manual. Using either aperture or shutter priorities as starting points lets the cameras bear some of the calculation weight.

gedgar2000

I would think digital photography makes the cameras exposure calculation king. The reason? Any calculated exposure setting combination is just a suggestion. If I had an external meter that I knew was better, I'd still be using the camera's numbers. Because I can shoot a test shot, and modify the exposure calculation as needed. I've never used film, but I can picture an important photo that has to be good, but you won't know until the film is developed, then the accuracy of the initial exposure setting "guess" becomes way more important. Hooray for digital! It brings new photographers up the learning curve WAY faster. I could play with exposure settings and see the results of my experiments immediately. With film I'd have to keep a record of what I did so I could match it with the right photo after development. I'm not sure I'd have the discipline which is pitiful.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Fear of P mode defeats more photographers than any other setting on their camera.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

A, M, T, P, Z, ...WAIT- I DON'T HAVE A Z!

BebuLamar

So then I simply forget about the the meter and calculation altogether. My camera meter went dead for about a month. I simply used it without the meter and it worked just fine. First guess are either right on or close enough for RAW work. After the intitial consecutive shots are perfect.

tramsey Loc: Texas

Most of what I shoot I don't need to slow down so I use aperture just about all the time. If I feel that aperture isn't going to do the job then a go to manual.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

FWIW - I leave the "grab" camera in "P". That way, if I am in a rush I can just grab, point and shoot. If there is time to set up, I will go to either Tv or Av, depending on which is more important for the given situation, DOF or stop or blur motion.

I keep my prime camera in "M". Also, there are 2 "C" settings (I pre-saved) for concerts, one with and 1 without flash. They both are an "M" setting with fixed shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. I do use EC with them, as needed.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

In A mode you're saying that shutter speed isn't a priority. In S or Tv mode you're saying that aperture isn't a priority. People who shoot fast-moving subjects will tell you that you need to specify the shutter speed to prevent it from falling too low, so A mode is a recipe for failed shots. People who shoot slow-moving or stationary subjects will tell you that DOF is the potential shot killer, so not having control over aperture is a recipe for disaster.

The answer that you get depends on who you ask. My preference for landscapes is M+AutoISO. I can set aperture and then play off shutter speed against ISO. When necessary I can use EC to get further control over the exposure.