One light
May 1, 2020 14:39:09 #
A couple weeks back I’m stumbling around the house trying to think of what I could do for a new photo project. I went into the office, sat down at the computer and started reading through the post on some of the Facebook photography sites that I go to. As usual there where several people asking for advice on buying their first on camera flash or studio strobe. Does the Godox AD400 PRO ($650) have enough power or should I go for the Godox AD600 PRO ($900). Or, I can’t decide, should I get the Canon 600EX ($475) or the Profoto V1 ($560). I though here’s a project, what is the least expensive (cheapest) flash unit you can get and how would you use it to get good portraits. So, I looked on Amazon and this was the best (cheapest) deal I could find (https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Wireless-Speedlite-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B078KGNNY1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=BS9E9E0O3UP2&dchild=1&keywords=godox+tt520ii&qid=1588355046&sprefix=Godox+TT520II%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-1). All manual flash with built-in radio receiver, on camera radio trigger, gel set, diffuser, some kind of small LED lights and free shipping, all for $39.99. I want to work on one light portraits with inexpensive gear. I have a couple idea’s I’m working on; one is attached. I will do better photos the next time my granddaughter is in a posing mood, until then you are stuck with me. If any of you have ideas for one light portraits please PM me.
May 1, 2020 14:46:20 #
captivecookie
Loc: Washington state
If it doesn't do everything you want, at least you are only out less than 50 bucks. I think challenging yourself to do good one light portraits is a skill building exercise. The ad says it has a radio transmitter, which is great, but it might not meter through the lens. This means you can take a set of pics and look at them on your camera's screen to zero in your settings, manually adding or subtracting using the flash controls.
May 1, 2020 14:52:12 #
I use a light meter to make adjustments to the setting. This flash is all manual, no TTL and no HSS. It only has 8 power settings, you have to move the flash unit in and out to make fine adjustments to the power.
May 1, 2020 15:06:29 #
May 1, 2020 15:07:58 #
May 1, 2020 15:09:22 #
tonyantony wrote:
all you need is window light
As long as there is window light.
May 1, 2020 15:16:52 #
A single monolight, equipped with a softbox or umbrella and a reflector used as a fill source is one of my favourite portrait lighting setups. It's portable, easy to set up and take down and if you know how to correctly feather the light so that some of the beam strikes the reflector, you can produce a wide variety of fine portraits.
The difference between the 2 monolights you specify is power output expressed in watt.seconds. The more powerful unit will come in handy if you are going to use it ALSO for certain aspects of commercial or fashion photography and group portraiture where you may need to work a greater distance between the light source and the subject, use an exceptionally large modifier that may tend to absorb more light AND require smaller aperture for greater depth of field. The caveat is, you want to be able to power it down sufficiently weh you want lower output fo less depth of field, selective focus and "bokeh" effects in the background.
If you don't envision requiring additional power, the less powerful unit is ample and sufficient for general portraiture. In my own case, most of my studio work in classic portraiture never requires more than 400-watt .seconds- usually less.
Remember- guide numbers, watt. second and/or B.C.P.S. specifications are based on direct use of the flash with the supplied or built-in reflector. Once you add a modifier, umbrella, softbox or a diffuser, all bets are off because all of theses accessories attenuate or absorb some of the light so, in many cases, the additional power will serve you well in all forms of modified, bounce, or indirect lighting.
A far as speedlights are concerned, you can use them for portraiture but there is a great deal of improvisation required because there are no modelling lamps for you to precisely previsualize your lighting.
The difference between the 2 monolights you specify is power output expressed in watt.seconds. The more powerful unit will come in handy if you are going to use it ALSO for certain aspects of commercial or fashion photography and group portraiture where you may need to work a greater distance between the light source and the subject, use an exceptionally large modifier that may tend to absorb more light AND require smaller aperture for greater depth of field. The caveat is, you want to be able to power it down sufficiently weh you want lower output fo less depth of field, selective focus and "bokeh" effects in the background.
If you don't envision requiring additional power, the less powerful unit is ample and sufficient for general portraiture. In my own case, most of my studio work in classic portraiture never requires more than 400-watt .seconds- usually less.
Remember- guide numbers, watt. second and/or B.C.P.S. specifications are based on direct use of the flash with the supplied or built-in reflector. Once you add a modifier, umbrella, softbox or a diffuser, all bets are off because all of theses accessories attenuate or absorb some of the light so, in many cases, the additional power will serve you well in all forms of modified, bounce, or indirect lighting.
A far as speedlights are concerned, you can use them for portraiture but there is a great deal of improvisation required because there are no modelling lamps for you to precisely previsualize your lighting.
May 2, 2020 09:40:17 #
I think Mr. Shapiro resumed it all. Anybody can achieve excellent results using a manual flash and a reflector. An exposure meter for measuring the flash light is an asset but not a necessity. Without the flash you will have to experiential a little bit to know exactly at what distance from the subject to position the flash. Digital is very flexible and experimenting with it costs nothing...except some extra time.
A couple of members in this forum mentioned window light and that is also a very good and cheap solution. In regard to using flash the light can be controlled to your liking and the reflector can be moved to achieve the effect you want. The cheap Godox with a trigger offers a very reasonable solution and the results using good technique should be as good as those using professional flash units. I do not expect a flash costing so little will take a lot of punishment. A flash made for Canon cameras has an excellent chance of outperforming the Godox and will last longer. If you are going to use the flash for casual photography then buying the Godox is justified and it is only $40.
As you work with your flash projects and gain experience positioning the flash in relation to your subject the quality of your results will be very pleasant to your eyes. I have seen outstanding portraits made with only one light.
Good luck.
A couple of members in this forum mentioned window light and that is also a very good and cheap solution. In regard to using flash the light can be controlled to your liking and the reflector can be moved to achieve the effect you want. The cheap Godox with a trigger offers a very reasonable solution and the results using good technique should be as good as those using professional flash units. I do not expect a flash costing so little will take a lot of punishment. A flash made for Canon cameras has an excellent chance of outperforming the Godox and will last longer. If you are going to use the flash for casual photography then buying the Godox is justified and it is only $40.
As you work with your flash projects and gain experience positioning the flash in relation to your subject the quality of your results will be very pleasant to your eyes. I have seen outstanding portraits made with only one light.
Good luck.
May 2, 2020 09:46:05 #
wayne-03 wrote:
A couple weeks back I’m stumbling around the house... (show quote)
It looks good to me. The guy behind the Tool is often more important than the expense for the tool and you seem to have a solid grip on the variables. Practice ....practice...practice. Good job
May 2, 2020 10:48:52 #
Actually, the basic concept of the monolight/softbox/reflector combination is based on WINDOW LIGHT! Light entering a room form a window with NORTHERN exposure is ideal when it is accessible and available. Drapes and curtains are great "barn doors" and moving the subject away from the window increases contrast and closer distanced yield a softer effect.
The closest I can get to simulating this kind of window light, 24/7, is the softbox setup. I started using it some year ago for bridal portraits at weddings assignments. Of course, not every location has the ideal window exposure and time of day is a factor as well. Up here in Canada, Winters brig darkness at 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon, so out comes the monolight.
Exposure wise, the monolght is very consistent. Once you determine the power setting you like to use, the aperture will always be the same at a given distance. You don't need too much power, I find I get good selective focus at f/6.3 and most of my lenses perform exceptionally well at that aperture.
The closest I can get to simulating this kind of window light, 24/7, is the softbox setup. I started using it some year ago for bridal portraits at weddings assignments. Of course, not every location has the ideal window exposure and time of day is a factor as well. Up here in Canada, Winters brig darkness at 4 or 5 o'clock in the afternoon, so out comes the monolight.
Exposure wise, the monolght is very consistent. Once you determine the power setting you like to use, the aperture will always be the same at a given distance. You don't need too much power, I find I get good selective focus at f/6.3 and most of my lenses perform exceptionally well at that aperture.
May 2, 2020 11:34:26 #
The 600 have a lot of light power. You can have to much or not enough light. I would shoot more people with your light set up. Light is an experience and every skin lights different.
Look in the ad 200, ad 360. I prefer flashpoint (Adorama warranty) it's same as godox.
My explorer 600 stays more at home than my ad360-is way lighter and smaller .....
Look in the ad 200, ad 360. I prefer flashpoint (Adorama warranty) it's same as godox.
My explorer 600 stays more at home than my ad360-is way lighter and smaller .....
May 2, 2020 16:44:28 #
Hello Wayne!
You are absolutly right, You can take really nice portraits with just one cheap speedlight.
I do so quite often.
My camera is Nikon D70 and flash are old Nikon SB26 (3x)...and Metz 42 (2x).
I rarely use more than 2 speedlights at the same time...
If I shoot at night, so from time to time I use 3 speedlights (1x right; 1 left and 1 from behind quite high, as rim/hair light or "halo" on backgrund for separation)
But even at night, most of the time I use 2 speedlights (1 left or right+réflector right or left, 1x behind for separation hair and background
If I shoot at day time, I use natural light from big window quite always. This light is the key light right or left and + 1 reflector left or right. Period! If the room is not bright enough, then i add (rarely) 1 speedlight right or left.
Results are generally quite flattering for the subject!
I always shoot in manual mode M, on camera and on speedlight as well
I adjust the blast power by hand (ie. 1/8 +0,33...; 1/4 +0,66, etc) and check for eventuel further adjustment if needed...it works really fine and make fun!
But,You will need a diffuseur...I alwys shoot portraits with speedlight inside a softbox.
I tryed with umbrellas but they spread light everywhere in the room, and hélas too often there is to much light exactly there where I don't want to have it! So, instead of umbrella, I use a soft box.
Size 60 cm x 60 cm is really big enough...You dont need bigger!
I have 2 soft boxes (use both together only by night) they are 60 cm x 90 cm...so I regret this big size; it is too big, I would have buy better 60x60!
Anyway, soft box is perhaps about 35 USD more expensive than a brolly (42 inches) but it is much more directionnal, and with a honeycomb-grid, it is really easy to spread light only there where You want it.
My tip: using a softbox is a special task: don't "throw" the central light beams direct into the subject's face...a much better way to light up the face (or body) is to "feather" the light...Have a look at Youtube (Adorama Mr Gavin HOEY): interesting and efficient!
If You want, I send You per e-mail 5 or 6 pictures I shot recently with either 1 or 2 speedlight inside a softbox. You will quickly discover that the big job is much more to adjust the angle, direction of the light, than to set shutter speed, aperture ,WB, flash power, ISO, etc...because those "technical settings" do underlie physical rules...and "shapping" the light of speedlight is a game of try and error! But funny!
Ok Wayne, don't hesitate if You will see some pictures made with cheap gear, I have good samples ready for You.
Mon e-mail: vion.daniel2@free.fr , so I can contact me.
Y're welcome
Daniel
You are absolutly right, You can take really nice portraits with just one cheap speedlight.
I do so quite often.
My camera is Nikon D70 and flash are old Nikon SB26 (3x)...and Metz 42 (2x).
I rarely use more than 2 speedlights at the same time...
If I shoot at night, so from time to time I use 3 speedlights (1x right; 1 left and 1 from behind quite high, as rim/hair light or "halo" on backgrund for separation)
But even at night, most of the time I use 2 speedlights (1 left or right+réflector right or left, 1x behind for separation hair and background
If I shoot at day time, I use natural light from big window quite always. This light is the key light right or left and + 1 reflector left or right. Period! If the room is not bright enough, then i add (rarely) 1 speedlight right or left.
Results are generally quite flattering for the subject!
I always shoot in manual mode M, on camera and on speedlight as well
I adjust the blast power by hand (ie. 1/8 +0,33...; 1/4 +0,66, etc) and check for eventuel further adjustment if needed...it works really fine and make fun!
But,You will need a diffuseur...I alwys shoot portraits with speedlight inside a softbox.
I tryed with umbrellas but they spread light everywhere in the room, and hélas too often there is to much light exactly there where I don't want to have it! So, instead of umbrella, I use a soft box.
Size 60 cm x 60 cm is really big enough...You dont need bigger!
I have 2 soft boxes (use both together only by night) they are 60 cm x 90 cm...so I regret this big size; it is too big, I would have buy better 60x60!
Anyway, soft box is perhaps about 35 USD more expensive than a brolly (42 inches) but it is much more directionnal, and with a honeycomb-grid, it is really easy to spread light only there where You want it.
My tip: using a softbox is a special task: don't "throw" the central light beams direct into the subject's face...a much better way to light up the face (or body) is to "feather" the light...Have a look at Youtube (Adorama Mr Gavin HOEY): interesting and efficient!
If You want, I send You per e-mail 5 or 6 pictures I shot recently with either 1 or 2 speedlight inside a softbox. You will quickly discover that the big job is much more to adjust the angle, direction of the light, than to set shutter speed, aperture ,WB, flash power, ISO, etc...because those "technical settings" do underlie physical rules...and "shapping" the light of speedlight is a game of try and error! But funny!
Ok Wayne, don't hesitate if You will see some pictures made with cheap gear, I have good samples ready for You.
Mon e-mail: vion.daniel2@free.fr , so I can contact me.
Y're welcome
Daniel
May 4, 2020 00:01:09 #
tonyantony wrote:
all you need is window light
That could be quite a challenge in the evening.
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