Question for the film buffs out there: Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ year-old black & white film, and whether any special exposure or processing is called for? No...

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ year-old black & white film, and whether any special exposure or processing is called for? No, it has not been stored in a freezer.

I'm about to start testing all my old collection of 35mm cameras and I have a bunch of old film I have acquired. Even just mixed up a batch of D-76 developer powder and Kodak Fixer powder, both at least 20 years old.

Do powdered chemicals have a shelf life? They don't have expiration dates on them.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

nadelewitz wrote:

Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ y... (show quote)

It’s all probably useable, but I would run carefully controlled clip tests.

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

Do not know about film.
But I do know than many dry chemicals have a storage life. How they are stored also has a bearing on shelf life.
A lot of chemicals are hygroscopic, absorbing atmosphere air, thus 'going bad'.
That said, you might cut the exposed film into a few pictures from various rolls and try developing series with the old chemicals. This way, variation in film can be seen.If unfavorable results, then buy new chemicals for the rest, if wished.
Bill

wilsondl2 Loc: Lincoln, Nebraska

Just try it! Do a few test runs. I have had good luck with B&W film. One time I bought 3 boxes of Kodak 20X24 paper for 50 cents for each box of 50. The paper was dated 1948 and this was in the early 80,s Used the last of it in 2013. - Dave

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

nadelewitz wrote:

Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ y... (show quote)

Fog from heat and background radiation is one issue. Speed loss is another. I’d probably do a test, controlling exposure carefully and logging it in frame order. Ideally, you would photograph a Kodak or Tiffen Q13 21-step Gray scale, so you can find the ideal ISO for the developer you use. It’s the thinnest neg with the greatest tonal range. Be sure you get enough shadow details.

If you want to wing it, cut the ISO in half and extend development by 25%. Consider using a compensating developer like Acufine if the test with old D76 comes out poorly.

Film has its best chance if kept in lead-lined bags below 55F. Freezing generally isn’t recommended, due to the chance of condensation.

Scanning or copying with a macro lens will provide a great digital image, especially when converted to positive by the Lightroom Classic plug-in, Negative Lab Pro.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

burkphoto wrote:

Fog from heat and background radiation is one issu... (show quote)

Bill's procedures are the best way to go, however, aside from curiosity I do know if all that work is worth the effort. If the fog level is as high as what I suspect, I wouldn't advise using that film on anything important. Fresh black and white films are readily available as is a selection of compatible chemistry. The old film might yield a unique special effect- only experimentation will tell.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

E.L.. Shapiro wrote:

Bill's procedures are the best way to go, however, aside from curiosity I do know if all that work is worth the effort. If the fog level is as high as what I suspect, I wouldn't advise using that film on anything important. Fresh black and white films are readily available as is a selection of compatible chemistry. The old film might yield a unique special effect- only experimentation will tell.

Yes, I concur!

B&H, Adorama, Freestyle, and others have a wide variety of choices. If I still cared about film, I could find any kind I wanted, except Kodachrome and Ektachrome Infrared.

twowindsbear

The definitive answer is a resounding 'maybe.'

Mix your developer & fixer & shoot a roll of film & evaluate your results. If your results are good - then great for you. What about the next roll??? Will it be good, too?

On the other hand, if your results are not so good - then why? Is the film 'bad?' Is the developer 'bad?' How about the fixer? Poorly fixed film may not show up for a while, maybe even quite a while. Or, was it your technique that turned out to be a bit lacking? Same questions with the next roll of film.

If you really want to explore B&W film & processing & such, BUY new film & NEW chemicals and you'll get dependable results!!

I will recommend using your stash of 'old' film to practice loading your developing reels.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

burkphoto wrote:

Freezing generally isn’t recommended, due to the chance of condensation.

Freezing is generally recommended: https://thedarkroom.com/tips-for-storing-photography-film/

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

By the way- Powdered fixer can be nasty stuff. If you open it, make certain the powder does not get airborne- don't inhale it. Powdered developers in a can may last quite a while but in an envelope, it tends to become oxidized. Frankly, I would not advise messing with old chemistry- the operative word here is "mess"!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

RWR wrote:

Freezing is generally recommended: https://thedarkroom.com/tips-for-storing-photography-film/

At Delmar Studios, and again at Herff Jones after they bought Delmar, I had a good relationship with four Kodak technical sales reps. They sold us freight cars full of film and paper. They advised relative humidity of 30% to 50% and temps between 35F and 55F.

They also recommended against use of home freezers with daily defrost cycles, which is understandable if you have encountered freezer burn on fruits, vegetables or meat. Apparently, constant freezing and slight thawing can deteriorate film emulsions over time.

120 size rolls sealed in foil wrappers and long rolls (100’ or more) in sealed cans fare best with freezing. 135 cassettes in plastic containers can leak humidity. So if you freeze them, seal them in metal tins with silica gel packets.

I stored a 20 roll brick of 135 Ektachrome 400 for ten years in my studio freezer. When I finally used it, it was ruined. Same happened with a 5-pack of Portra 400 frozen for three years. The experimental chromogenic B&W film Kodak gave me in 2003 was still good after five years in a refrigerator at 45F...

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

nadelewitz wrote:

Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ y... (show quote)

I responded earlier.
To you, or another UHH member.
I have six or seven sheets of Kodak Polymax ll RC paper.
16x20 inches, in B/W.
Unknown age, but I have had it three or four years.
I used one sheet to show a group of kids how to make shadow prints of leaves, other shapes.
If it is worth your while, post private and go from there.
Yours for postage.
Wait till you receive the paper, then send a note back with the fee (cash OK). If unusable by you, no charge. Just junk it.
Bill

JD750 Loc: SoCal

nadelewitz wrote:

Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ y... (show quote)

How was it stored?

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

nadelewitz wrote:

Can anyone speak authoritatively about using 20+ y... (show quote)

In 1985 I developed and printed a roll of film for my father-in-law that was taken in 1955 and was stored in his humid basement for 30 years. It turned out to be shots of my wife's first communion. They came out fine. B&W film has a lot more latitude than color slide or neg. film.
You have nothing to loose except for the cost of developing and printing. GO FOR IT.

medphotog Loc: Witness protection land

burkphoto wrote:

Film has its best chance if kept in lead-lined bags below 55F. Freezing generally isn’t recommended, due to the chance of condensation.

I dunno. Not disputing you, just my observation, but because it was so much fun to re-calibrate, we would purchase 20+ rolls of E-chrome Dupe film at a time and put it in a freezer. (Actually we did it with all of our bulk film) We'd just take it out and let it sit for a couple of hours and we'd be good to go. Sure miss those metal cans. <G> As a side note we got blasted one time because we had ice cream in the freezer with the film and the folks side it was a safety hazard because something could "leak" into the ice cream and make us sick. Thankfully we didn't use Beers developer or who knows what wrath that would have brought on.