Help Needed - new Lens
Sep 13, 2012 08:44:33 #
Hi,
I am having issues with my 18-135mm IS lens that came standard on my Canon 60D. It takes great photos up close with apertures in the f/5.6 to 8.0 range. But when I use it for landscape with apertures in the f/22 to F/29, the photos are not crisp. At first I was thinking it was the autofocus so I went out and did some tests using manual and auto to compare. It seems decent. I am thinking of trying a better lens (not a pro here so nothing in the outrageous price category, willing to spend $1000 but would prefer the $800 and under range). Am absolutely certain the lack of image quality is not due to camera shake, I use a tripod for landscape pictures, for the most part. I use the self timer for the slower shutters speeds. My previous Olympus DSLR took better landscape pictures than my Canon 60D...am absolutely thinking its the lens. I considered replacing the camera as well but I am thinking better lens might do the trick.
I am having issues with my 18-135mm IS lens that came standard on my Canon 60D. It takes great photos up close with apertures in the f/5.6 to 8.0 range. But when I use it for landscape with apertures in the f/22 to F/29, the photos are not crisp. At first I was thinking it was the autofocus so I went out and did some tests using manual and auto to compare. It seems decent. I am thinking of trying a better lens (not a pro here so nothing in the outrageous price category, willing to spend $1000 but would prefer the $800 and under range). Am absolutely certain the lack of image quality is not due to camera shake, I use a tripod for landscape pictures, for the most part. I use the self timer for the slower shutters speeds. My previous Olympus DSLR took better landscape pictures than my Canon 60D...am absolutely thinking its the lens. I considered replacing the camera as well but I am thinking better lens might do the trick.
Sep 13, 2012 09:42:25 #
sygilligan wrote:
Hi,
Am absolutely certain the lack of image quality is not due to camera shake, I use a tripod for landscape pictures, for the most part. I use the self timer for the slower shutters speeds. My previous Olympus DSLR took better landscape pictures than my Canon 60D...am absolutely thinking its the lens. I considered replacing the camera as well but I am thinking better lens might do the trick.
Am absolutely certain the lack of image quality is not due to camera shake, I use a tripod for landscape pictures, for the most part. I use the self timer for the slower shutters speeds. My previous Olympus DSLR took better landscape pictures than my Canon 60D...am absolutely thinking its the lens. I considered replacing the camera as well but I am thinking better lens might do the trick.
When you used the tripod, did you also turn off the image stabilization (or vibration control, or whatever Canon calls it)?
I know, I may be asking the obvious, but....
EstherP
Sep 13, 2012 09:48:36 #
lighthouse
Loc: No Fixed Abode
What you are seeing may be diffraction blur.
All lenses have a sweet spot where they are at maximum sharpness. For many lenses this is at about F/8 to F/11.
For some of the newer digital lenses I have seen numbers down around F/5.6.
At the small hole end of your lenses scale ie F/22 & F/29 you will have greater depth of field but you may see noticeable diffraction that seems to soften the focus the further away from your focus point.
If you are using hyperfocal focusing try to stay around F/11 if possible.
Zoom lenses usually have a sweet spot lengthwise as well. Do the results change with the focal length. I would expect this lens to be weakest at 135mm.
Make sure the IS is turned off when the camera is on a tripod. If the camera tries to correct blur that is not there, softness and broken IS systems can result.
Not sure what else to check.
All lenses have a sweet spot where they are at maximum sharpness. For many lenses this is at about F/8 to F/11.
For some of the newer digital lenses I have seen numbers down around F/5.6.
At the small hole end of your lenses scale ie F/22 & F/29 you will have greater depth of field but you may see noticeable diffraction that seems to soften the focus the further away from your focus point.
If you are using hyperfocal focusing try to stay around F/11 if possible.
Zoom lenses usually have a sweet spot lengthwise as well. Do the results change with the focal length. I would expect this lens to be weakest at 135mm.
Make sure the IS is turned off when the camera is on a tripod. If the camera tries to correct blur that is not there, softness and broken IS systems can result.
Not sure what else to check.
Sep 13, 2012 11:14:03 #
I am actually thinking that it has to do with the "sweet spot". Best photos are taken with f/5.6 and the focal length in the 50-60 mm range. If I want to take the really sharp depth of field landscape photos, there has to be a compatible lens that will work better.
Sep 13, 2012 11:54:01 #
lighthouse
Loc: No Fixed Abode
Do you like ultra wides?
The Sigma 10-20mm is a great landscape lens and very affordable.
I wouldnt worry about getting the mark 2 version.
The mark 1 with a 77mm filter thread is a slightly slower lens but at ultra wide for landscape work it doesn't matter, and you will find it a couple of hundred dollars cheaper than the second version.
The Sigma 10-20mm is a great landscape lens and very affordable.
I wouldnt worry about getting the mark 2 version.
The mark 1 with a 77mm filter thread is a slightly slower lens but at ultra wide for landscape work it doesn't matter, and you will find it a couple of hundred dollars cheaper than the second version.
Sep 13, 2012 11:54:54 #
HA! I am reading about the Sigma 10-20 mm right now. Thanks for your help.
Sep 13, 2012 12:27:17 #
sygilligan wrote:
I am actually thinking that it has to do with the "sweet spot". Best photos are taken with f/5.6 and the focal length in the 50-60 mm range. If I want to take the really sharp depth of field landscape photos, there has to be a compatible lens that will work better.
The reply re:diffraction is correct especially with kit lenses.
Another cause may be setting your focus on infinity.
Because of the nature of DOF you should be focusing at less than infinity which will produde a sharper foreground while keeping the background in focus. If you are at f/5.6 at 50mm focused at 100 ft. pretty much all is in focus from about 40 feet to infinity.
Check the depth of field tables at:
http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html
Note that at infinity you have less foreground in focus than at say 100 feet for any aperture.
Your focus should be set at the hyperfocal distance to get the maximum amount of image in focus.
The hyperfocal distance is the closest distance at which a lens can be focused while keeping objects at infinity acceptably sharp. When the lens is focused at this distance, all objects at distances from half of the hyperfocal distance out to infinity will be acceptably sharp.
Sep 14, 2012 07:22:53 #
Sep 14, 2012 07:31:59 #
What came with your 60D is a kit lens. They don't have the quality of an L lens.
I use a 17-40 L f/4 that is so good that others see the difference and are always asking me to take family pics with it. It's also expensive, but in the world of photography you often get what you pay for and is well worth the cost.
And even though the range is 17-40, the quality bridges the gap up to my next lens which is 70-200.
I use a 17-40 L f/4 that is so good that others see the difference and are always asking me to take family pics with it. It's also expensive, but in the world of photography you often get what you pay for and is well worth the cost.
And even though the range is 17-40, the quality bridges the gap up to my next lens which is 70-200.
Sep 14, 2012 08:09:25 #
Diffraction is the likely cause. As the aperature gets smaller the edges of the opening get thicker in relation to the opening, and tend to interfere with the sharpness. So key is the number and thickness of the individual blades. Cost cutting leads to using fewer blades, and even non-circular opening, in the shape of a pentagon. When shooting into the light you can see flair in the shape of the opening. Take a series of shots varying the aperature one stop at a time and compare them. I just looked at my 18-135 and it doesn't go further than f22.
Sep 14, 2012 09:51:15 #
Canon 17-40mm 4.0L is the best wide angle value in the Canon L series lineup. It takes wonderful, sharp pictures and is about $750.00 new.
See this review:http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-17-40mm-f-4.0-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-17-40mm-f-4.0-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
See this review:http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-17-40mm-f-4.0-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-17-40mm-f-4.0-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
Sep 14, 2012 09:56:41 #
Lucian
Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio
simple... just don't ever shoot anything on the higher/highest f-stops, don't even know why they include those on lenses. Shoot everything between f5.6 to max f-11 but better one stop down and you should have far better results.
Sep 14, 2012 10:17:07 #
Thanks for all of your feedback. I want a wide angle lens for landscape photos. The standard kit lens isn't going to cut it but I know that lens works well in certain situations because I am happy with many of the pictures.
Sep 14, 2012 10:41:53 #
Try opening up to F8 next time. Some less expensive glass looses detail when stopped down too much and it is what it is. I've read that some expensive glass can have the same problem stopped down to f22 or higher.
As talked about farther up:
1. turn IS off when on tripod with slow shutter
2. open up to f8
3. try mirror lock up
4. take the time of day and lighting conditions into account. When the sun is high and it's warm out this can cause blur do to heat waves affecting light. Haze in the sky can affect sharpness and detail. And humid muggy days can cause soft images and loss of detail.
5. Try bracketing your images and using HDR. I did this on a hazy day when shooting an oil drilling platform. It was way better than any single image I took.
As talked about farther up:
1. turn IS off when on tripod with slow shutter
2. open up to f8
3. try mirror lock up
4. take the time of day and lighting conditions into account. When the sun is high and it's warm out this can cause blur do to heat waves affecting light. Haze in the sky can affect sharpness and detail. And humid muggy days can cause soft images and loss of detail.
5. Try bracketing your images and using HDR. I did this on a hazy day when shooting an oil drilling platform. It was way better than any single image I took.
Sep 14, 2012 11:09:12 #
What focal length are you shooting at? If it is 75+ you will not get a lot of depth of field. Try shooting at f/8 to f/11 and under 35mm focal length. Then focus on something about 50' away and not on infinity. (you may want to play with this a little) I think if you do this everything will be sharp. - Dave
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