Hankwt
Loc: kingsville ontario
Im just getting into macro photography and love it so far I have been using a friends nikor 85 f/3.5. I am purchasing the Nikkor 105 f/2.8 next week for my D7000. cant wait!!!! My question is has anyone tried the Amaron halo led ring flash? Pros/cons/etc? its an LED unit. Its relatively cheap at about 70 smakaroos Nikonian72 - I know you use the O-Flash unit which couples to your SB-600 speedlight. any thoughts on comparisons ?? the amaran does not incorporate ttl. but i'm guessing the O-Flash unit kinda does, as the Nikon flash is used? I have an SB-700. your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
LED illumination units are constant light sources (on all the time), unlike a speedlight that flashes only when shutter is depressed.
LED illumination units are notoriously under-powered, requiring high ISO (obvious noise), long exposures (subject movement), and/or large aperture (shallow DoF & low resolution).
Most field macro-photographers will not tolerate any of those conditions, so we use speedlight illumination, which provides low ISOs (hardly any noise), 1/200-sec (freezes most insects), at f/11 (maximum resolution) to f/32 (maximum DoF).
My SB-600 is set to manual for all of my macro-photography. If a photo is too bright, I can reduce next image to 1/2 power, or 1/4 power. Your SB-700 is ideal for use with a $30 O-Flash attachment.
Hankwt
Loc: kingsville ontario
Thanks Nikonian I think based on your wisdom Ill go with the unit you use
thanks again O wise one !!! or is that Sir O Wise One
Hankwt wrote:
Thanks Nikonian I think based on your wisdom Ill go with the unit you use. thanks again O wise one !!! or is that Sir O Wise One
"Your Eminence" will do nicely.
I slightly enhanced my O-Flash. Read more here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nikonian72/sets/72157623703013085P.S. - Are you purchasing a new Nikkor 105G, or an older 105D?
Hankwt
Loc: kingsville ontario
the new 105 G I hope this is a good thing may i kiss your ring ??
Hankwt wrote:
the new 105G I hope this is a good thing may i kiss your ring ??
Sorry, I draw the line at kissing!
In October 2011, I upgraded my 105D to a 105G, and my keep rate improved dramatically. I love VR and small central spot A-F.
My first macro with Nikkor 105G
CResQ
Loc: Cobble Hill, BC
Nikonian72 wrote:
About 11-months ago, I upgraded my 105D to a 105G, and my keep rate improved dramatically. I love VR and small central spot A-F.
Incredible, thanks for showing. With your permission I would like to use this as a screen background. Cheers
Nikonian72 wrote:
About 11-months ago, I upgraded my 105D to a 105G, and my keep rate improved dramatically. I love VR and small central spot A-F.
Ahhh...the little lady, doing what she does best.
CResQ wrote:
With your permission I would like to use this as a screen background. Cheers
Please! I hope it is not too busy to see your program icons.
CResQ
Loc: Cobble Hill, BC
Nikonian72 wrote:
CResQ wrote:
With your permission I would like to use this as a screen background. Cheers
Please! I hope it is not too busy to see your program icons.
Nope! Works great, thanks very much. Working my way to get such outstanding results but have a long way to go. You set the bar high. Incredible.
Nikonian72 wrote:
LED illumination units are constant light sources (on all the time), unlike a speedlight that flashes only when shutter is depressed.
LED illumination units are notoriously under-powered, requiring high ISO (obvious noise), long exposures (subject movement), and/or large aperture (shallow DoF & low resolution).
Most field macro-photographers will not tolerate any of those conditions, so we use speedlight illumination, which provides low ISOs (hardly any noise), 1/200-sec (freezes most insects), at f/11 (maximum resolution) to f/32 (maximum DoF).
My SB-600 is set to manual for all of my macro-photography. If a photo is too bright, I can reduce next image to 1/2 power, or 1/4 power. Your SB-700 is ideal for use with a $30 O-Flash attachment.
LED illumination units are constant light sources ... (
show quote)
To be correct - actually the LED units have 6 settings - 3 constant on and 3 flash. The choices are left on, right on or all on. The sync speed for the Amaran Halo AHL-C60 is 1/200sec.
Crwiwy wrote:
To be correct - actually the LED units have 6 settings - 3 constant on and 3 flash. The choices are left on, right on or all on. The sync speed for the Amaran Halo AHL-C60 is 1/200sec.
Please include the
most important specification of a speedlight, which is the
Guide Number. GN is the international standard measurement of flash output, at ISO 100 & ISO 200 (20°C/68°F).
My Nikon SB-600 Guide Number is 98, at ISO 100; and 138 at ISO 200.
Nikonian72 wrote:
My Nikon SB-600 Guide Number is 98, at ISO 100; and 138 at ISO 200.
This one - as most other LED ring flashes is GN15.
I wouldn't dispute that the Nikon one is superior - but it is at least 10 times as expensive which is a lot of money if a person is on a budget and only wants to take close-up pictures occasionally.
Your GN of 98 is greater than a lot of normal flash guns and - apart from allowing a very high shutter speed - would appear to me to be over powered for a picture taken a few inches away.
However, I am always willing to learn from someone experienced in the use of equipment under discussion.
Crwiwy wrote:
Nikonian72 wrote:
My Nikon SB-600 Guide Number is 98, at ISO 100; and 138 at ISO 200.
This one - as most other LED ring flashes is GN15.
My SB400 is GN 69 for ISO 100 & GN 98 for ISO 200. While it doesn't have manual control on the unit, I can set to Manual and cut the power on my D300. The advantage of doing this is very short flash duration-- much shorter than the shutter speed. This allows the photographer to shoot at a small f/stop, with low ISO AND freeze moving insects. This is the value of an "over-powered" unit... Oh and diffusion cuts some output as well.
Crwiwy wrote:
Nikonian72 wrote:
My Nikon SB-600 Guide Number is 98, at ISO 100; and 138 at ISO 200.
This one - as most other LED ring flashes is GN15.
Your GN of 98 is greater than a lot of normal flash guns and - apart from allowing a very high shutter speed - would appear to me to be over powered for a picture taken a few inches away.
This is NOT a matter of "mine is bigger than yours". For the benefit of all inquiring macro-photographers, we insist on any recommended equipment purchase to be backed by posted examples of personal use. If you have examples of properly illuminated macro-photographs using any LED source, demonstrating optimum aperture (f/16 or f/22) and stop-action shutter duration (1/200-sec), please post for our edification.
LoneRangeFinder quite nicely addressed the advantage of a 1/900-sec flash output at full power, to 1/10,000-sec flash output at 1/8 power or so, which is quite useful at very close range. Your Amaran Halo AHL-C60 LED lights can be set to full-circle power or half-circle power (right or left). Not quite the same advantage.
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