Filter recommendations
Feb 24, 2020 10:52:20 #
I’m looking for filter suggestions. I am a novice at best, and all of your thoughts and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. We are going to be in the Caribbean in March, Hawaii in June, Alaska in July and September and I need your help in capturing the colors of the water, sunrises and sunsets. Shooting a Nikon 750 with a 28 x 300 VR.
Feb 24, 2020 10:55:36 #
I would recommend a circular polarizer and a UV when the polarizer isn't in use. Regardless, I'd also recommend B+W filters. They aren't inexpensive but consider they are part of your optical system. As such, you want the best glass you can get. The circular polarizer might give you an uneven darkening of the sky when used with a very wide-angle side of the 23~300.
--Bob
--Bob
Keithc wrote:
I’m looking for filter suggestions. I am a novice at best, and all of your thoughts and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. We are going to be in the Caribbean in March, Hawaii in June, Alaska in July and September and I need your help in capturing the colors of the water, sunrises and sunsets. Shooting a Nikon 750 with a 28 x 300 VR.
Feb 24, 2020 10:58:44 #
The circular polarizer (CPL) is a specialized filter, with a bit of sticker shock. Don't be thrown off by the price. I've had success with used filters from KEH. As long as they're not scratched, there's no difference between a 'used' and 'new' filter, other than being cheaper.
Feb 24, 2020 11:31:32 #
Polarization is all about angles, so the sky banding is to be expected. Point the lens at the sky, say 45 deg from North. The rotate the filter to max extinction the move the camera along the longitude line. Observe the band movement.
rmalarz wrote:
I would recommend a circular polarizer and a UV when the polarizer isn't in use. Regardless, I'd also recommend B+W filters. They aren't inexpensive but consider they are part of your optical system. As such, you want the best glass you can get. The circular polarizer might give you an uneven darkening of the sky when used with a very wide-angle side of the 23~300.
--Bob
--Bob
Feb 24, 2020 11:42:11 #
Keithc wrote:
I’m looking for filter suggestions. I am a novice at best, and all of your thoughts and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. We are going to be in the Caribbean in March, Hawaii in June, Alaska in July and September and I need your help in capturing the colors of the water, sunrises and sunsets. Shooting a Nikon 750 with a 28 x 300 VR.
You probably should have a Circular Polarizer (CPL) in your bag anyway for any sort of landscape shooting. A graduated neutral density (GND) filter wold be very useful for sunrises and sunsets. A 'hard edge' GND would be most useful for shooting over water with straight horizons. Use the exposure compensation setting or bracketing to try a couple of different exposures.
Breakthrough Photography have a reputation for producing the most neutral color rendition, but they are not cheap. Spending money on a good CPL is probably worth it, but I would weigh the cost of GND's against the value you will get from it. You can sort of replicate the effect of a GND pretty easily in PP by pulling down a gradient as long as you haven't already blown out the highlights.
Feb 24, 2020 13:25:30 #
Feb 24, 2020 13:49:36 #
Feb 24, 2020 13:50:46 #
Feb 24, 2020 13:54:14 #
Feb 24, 2020 14:49:33 #
Keithc wrote:
I’m looking for filter suggestions. I am a novice at best, and all of your thoughts and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. We are going to be in the Caribbean in March, Hawaii in June, Alaska in July and September and I need your help in capturing the colors of the water, sunrises and sunsets. Shooting a Nikon 750 with a 28 x 300 VR.
You might want a graduated ND filter for sunsets/sunrises. CPL will be of little use. For water, with the correct angles, you camera can "see" into the water when the water is clear with a CPL. In my experience, there is no advantage to spending $$$ on filters - Hoya is more than adequate.
Feb 24, 2020 14:51:43 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
Shooting at the beach and near the ocean, I recommend using a UV filter to "protect" your lens from sand and "salt air". I normally don't use or recommend using "protection" filter... it's virtually useless most of the time and might have negative effects on images (added flare or increased chromatic aberration, for example)... HOWEVER, one exception is when shooting at the beach, which I imagine you'll be doing a lot. Sand that's wind blown or just finds its way onto and into lenses is a problem, but the biggest culprit is salt air, which is nasty stuff that gets onto everything and is a lot easier to clean off a filter than off the front element of a lens. The best type of filter, in this case, is one with "Nano" multi-coatings, which are more resistant to finger prints, oils, moisture and are easier to clean.
I also agree with previous recommendation for a Circular Polarizer. This is one of the most useful of all filters, in the digital age of photography. A C-Pol can do a lot of things, many of which are difficult or impossible to replicate in post-processing software. (Most other types of filters are easily emulated by software.) It can reduce reflections off water or glass, increase color saturation, deepen the blue of the sky and makes clouds really "pop", among other things. Again, look for a high quality one with Nano multi-coatings.
You might want a fairly strong Neutral Density filter, too. This type of filter is fairly specialized, though. It's used to allow slower shutter speeds to be used for scenic shots, causing moving objects (such as ocean waves) to deliberately blur. It also might be used to allow larger apertures for shallower depth of field effects, most likely desirable for portrait shots with "fast" lenses. Your 28-300mm isn't particularly fast, so this probably isn't a filter you'd use for that purpose... but you may want it for certain type of scenic shots. Once again, get a Nano multi-coated that will be easier to clean when it gets "sticky" from salt air, while shooting near the ocean.
Your lens uses 77mm filters. In that size...
B+W XS-Pro UV Nano MRC filter meets all the above criteria and costs $63. The cheaper ($42) "MRC" version (not "Nano") is fine, too, but won't be as easy to clean.
B+W XS-Pro Kaesemann C-Pol Nano MRC is one of the best and costs $100. It's also a "High Transmissive" type, which "costs" less light lost to the filter. All C-Pol reduce light to some extent. Standard ones are fairly dark and reduce light passing through by approx. 1.5 to 2.25 stops, depending upon how strongly they're effect is dialed in. A relatively new type of C-Pol, High Transmissive work just as well, but aren't as dark, costing approx. .75 to 1.5 stops of light. This doesn't seem like a big difference, but can be important so you don't have to use too slow a shutter speed or too high an ISO, when lighting isn't ideal.
B+W XS-Pro UV and C-Pol are top quality, but cost less than similar (and even less, in some cases) quality from other brands. You can pretty easily spend 1.5X or even 2X as much for a C-Pol and not get any better... maybe not even as good filter as a B+W. The difference in price vs quality isn't as dramatic with UV, but B+W still generally are very fairly priced.
B+W XS-Pro Neutral Density (solid) filters aren't as good a deal as some of their other types of filters. They are pretty comparable price to other, similar quality brands. A B+W XS-Pro "806" 1.8 ND reduces light transmission by 6 stops and is a good choice for many of the specialty situations where and ND might be wanted, but it costs $160. For still photography, some people also like to carry an "803" 0.9 ND (3-stop), which can be used for less light reduction or can be stacked with the 6-stop filter when more reduction is wanted. Note: You also can combine the C-Pol with either of the ND filters, to increase reduction AND reduce reflections, etc., at the same time. B_W XS-Pro 803 0.9 ND costs $125. These are top quality, though there are similar in other brands that are roughly the same price.
By the way, when using ND filters for slower shutter speeds, you're probably also going to want a good, stable tripod and maybe a remote release switch, to make for steady shots during those longer exposures.
I believe your lens comes with HB-50 lens hood... Which I recommend using to protect the lens (better than any filter ever could). It also can protect the filter! (Use the lens cap for protection, when storing the lens, with or without the filter. I always take a spare cap, just in case I lose one.)
Take lens cleaning supplies, which will also serve to clean the filters. In addition to cleaning the filter, be prepared to wipe down the lens barrel and your camera body after shooting at the beach... don't leave sticky "salt air" residue on them. It's corrosive. You may also want to take some sensor cleaning supplies. A "filter stacker" can be a useful accessory. One of those provides a top and bottom screw-on caps so that multiple filters can be safely stored in a minimum of space. (I use four different sizes of filters, so I have step rings to be able to stack and store them with a stacker style setup. You'd only need the 77mm size, if this is the only lens you'll be taking or if other lenses you use use the same size filter.)
Finally, if it were me, I'd want a wide angle lens for scenic shots, such as a Nikkor 16-35mm f/4 zoom or Nikkor 20mm f/1.8 prime. If you don't have and don't want to buy, maybe you could rent? I notice that both those lenses use 77mm filters, too. So they could share filters with your 28-300mm.
EDIT: Sorry, but I completely disagree with a previous response about Graduated ND filter being useful and a C-Pol unnecessary. In fact, it's exactly the opposite!
A C-Pol is by far the most useful filter for digital photography. And Graduated ND filters, which were needed for film photography, are not needed for digital because it's easier... and better... to use other techniques. For example, with digital you can often just make two shots at different exposure settings, then combine the "correct" portions from each into a single image in post-processing. Another way is to shoot a single RAW image, then "double process" it, tweaking the exposure in each differently, as needed. In both cases, you then combine the "correct" portions from each image to make one, fully corrected single image. It's actually easier than it sounds... plus is much more controllable AND far more accurate than was ever possible with Graduated ND filters and film.
Oh, and Hoya filters are more expensive and not equivalent quality to the B+W filters listed above. The most comparable C-Pol are Hoya EVO ($155 in 77mm) and Hoya HD3 ($199 in 77mm) that use high quality optical glass and have "Nano" multi-coatings, but don't have the weather sealing and fine Kaesemann polarizing screens of the $100 B+W XS-Pro C-Pol. Neither of the Hoya is High Transmissive either.
It's similar with Hoya HD3 UV ($140) and Hoya EVO UV ($81... versus $63 for B+W XS-Pro).
And all the Hoya use aluminum frames, which are more prone to galling and getting stuck on lenses or to other filters than the brass frames B+W uses.
Your choice, of course. Hey, if you wish, you can spend 1.5X or 2X as much to get less UV or C-Pol filter!
With ND filters, Hoya pricing may make them preferable. Their "Pro 1" or "Pro ND" cost $80 to $120 (versus $125 to $160 for B+W XS-Pro). I don't know if the Hoya are Nano multi-coated, though).
I also agree with previous recommendation for a Circular Polarizer. This is one of the most useful of all filters, in the digital age of photography. A C-Pol can do a lot of things, many of which are difficult or impossible to replicate in post-processing software. (Most other types of filters are easily emulated by software.) It can reduce reflections off water or glass, increase color saturation, deepen the blue of the sky and makes clouds really "pop", among other things. Again, look for a high quality one with Nano multi-coatings.
You might want a fairly strong Neutral Density filter, too. This type of filter is fairly specialized, though. It's used to allow slower shutter speeds to be used for scenic shots, causing moving objects (such as ocean waves) to deliberately blur. It also might be used to allow larger apertures for shallower depth of field effects, most likely desirable for portrait shots with "fast" lenses. Your 28-300mm isn't particularly fast, so this probably isn't a filter you'd use for that purpose... but you may want it for certain type of scenic shots. Once again, get a Nano multi-coated that will be easier to clean when it gets "sticky" from salt air, while shooting near the ocean.
Your lens uses 77mm filters. In that size...
B+W XS-Pro UV Nano MRC filter meets all the above criteria and costs $63. The cheaper ($42) "MRC" version (not "Nano") is fine, too, but won't be as easy to clean.
B+W XS-Pro Kaesemann C-Pol Nano MRC is one of the best and costs $100. It's also a "High Transmissive" type, which "costs" less light lost to the filter. All C-Pol reduce light to some extent. Standard ones are fairly dark and reduce light passing through by approx. 1.5 to 2.25 stops, depending upon how strongly they're effect is dialed in. A relatively new type of C-Pol, High Transmissive work just as well, but aren't as dark, costing approx. .75 to 1.5 stops of light. This doesn't seem like a big difference, but can be important so you don't have to use too slow a shutter speed or too high an ISO, when lighting isn't ideal.
B+W XS-Pro UV and C-Pol are top quality, but cost less than similar (and even less, in some cases) quality from other brands. You can pretty easily spend 1.5X or even 2X as much for a C-Pol and not get any better... maybe not even as good filter as a B+W. The difference in price vs quality isn't as dramatic with UV, but B+W still generally are very fairly priced.
B+W XS-Pro Neutral Density (solid) filters aren't as good a deal as some of their other types of filters. They are pretty comparable price to other, similar quality brands. A B+W XS-Pro "806" 1.8 ND reduces light transmission by 6 stops and is a good choice for many of the specialty situations where and ND might be wanted, but it costs $160. For still photography, some people also like to carry an "803" 0.9 ND (3-stop), which can be used for less light reduction or can be stacked with the 6-stop filter when more reduction is wanted. Note: You also can combine the C-Pol with either of the ND filters, to increase reduction AND reduce reflections, etc., at the same time. B_W XS-Pro 803 0.9 ND costs $125. These are top quality, though there are similar in other brands that are roughly the same price.
By the way, when using ND filters for slower shutter speeds, you're probably also going to want a good, stable tripod and maybe a remote release switch, to make for steady shots during those longer exposures.
I believe your lens comes with HB-50 lens hood... Which I recommend using to protect the lens (better than any filter ever could). It also can protect the filter! (Use the lens cap for protection, when storing the lens, with or without the filter. I always take a spare cap, just in case I lose one.)
Take lens cleaning supplies, which will also serve to clean the filters. In addition to cleaning the filter, be prepared to wipe down the lens barrel and your camera body after shooting at the beach... don't leave sticky "salt air" residue on them. It's corrosive. You may also want to take some sensor cleaning supplies. A "filter stacker" can be a useful accessory. One of those provides a top and bottom screw-on caps so that multiple filters can be safely stored in a minimum of space. (I use four different sizes of filters, so I have step rings to be able to stack and store them with a stacker style setup. You'd only need the 77mm size, if this is the only lens you'll be taking or if other lenses you use use the same size filter.)
Finally, if it were me, I'd want a wide angle lens for scenic shots, such as a Nikkor 16-35mm f/4 zoom or Nikkor 20mm f/1.8 prime. If you don't have and don't want to buy, maybe you could rent? I notice that both those lenses use 77mm filters, too. So they could share filters with your 28-300mm.
EDIT: Sorry, but I completely disagree with a previous response about Graduated ND filter being useful and a C-Pol unnecessary. In fact, it's exactly the opposite!
A C-Pol is by far the most useful filter for digital photography. And Graduated ND filters, which were needed for film photography, are not needed for digital because it's easier... and better... to use other techniques. For example, with digital you can often just make two shots at different exposure settings, then combine the "correct" portions from each into a single image in post-processing. Another way is to shoot a single RAW image, then "double process" it, tweaking the exposure in each differently, as needed. In both cases, you then combine the "correct" portions from each image to make one, fully corrected single image. It's actually easier than it sounds... plus is much more controllable AND far more accurate than was ever possible with Graduated ND filters and film.
Oh, and Hoya filters are more expensive and not equivalent quality to the B+W filters listed above. The most comparable C-Pol are Hoya EVO ($155 in 77mm) and Hoya HD3 ($199 in 77mm) that use high quality optical glass and have "Nano" multi-coatings, but don't have the weather sealing and fine Kaesemann polarizing screens of the $100 B+W XS-Pro C-Pol. Neither of the Hoya is High Transmissive either.
It's similar with Hoya HD3 UV ($140) and Hoya EVO UV ($81... versus $63 for B+W XS-Pro).
And all the Hoya use aluminum frames, which are more prone to galling and getting stuck on lenses or to other filters than the brass frames B+W uses.
Your choice, of course. Hey, if you wish, you can spend 1.5X or 2X as much to get less UV or C-Pol filter!
With ND filters, Hoya pricing may make them preferable. Their "Pro 1" or "Pro ND" cost $80 to $120 (versus $125 to $160 for B+W XS-Pro). I don't know if the Hoya are Nano multi-coated, though).
Feb 24, 2020 15:00:02 #
The answers above are all good. Read and heed as your subject matter indicates.
I carry a CPL, plus a clear glass protector (for dangerous environments where sparks, rubber, sand, metal, water, or snow are flying), and two ND filters (ND8, a three stop reduction, and ND64, a six stop reduction). The ND filters are used primarily for outdoor video filmmaking, so I can keep using a slow shutter speed (1/48 — at 24fps that is a shutter angle of 180 degrees) …and still use a reasonably wide aperture such as f/2.8 or f/4. But unless I have a specific need, my lenses are naked except for lens shades.
I carry a CPL, plus a clear glass protector (for dangerous environments where sparks, rubber, sand, metal, water, or snow are flying), and two ND filters (ND8, a three stop reduction, and ND64, a six stop reduction). The ND filters are used primarily for outdoor video filmmaking, so I can keep using a slow shutter speed (1/48 — at 24fps that is a shutter angle of 180 degrees) …and still use a reasonably wide aperture such as f/2.8 or f/4. But unless I have a specific need, my lenses are naked except for lens shades.
Feb 24, 2020 15:23:08 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
burkphoto wrote:
...The ND filters are used primarily for outdoor video filmmaking...
Good point! I forgot about video. That's another use for ND (only shoot stills, myself).
Feb 24, 2020 16:34:23 #
amfoto1 wrote:
Good point! I forgot about video. That's another use for ND (only shoot stills, myself).
They really help! I use Micro 4/3, so f/1.7 at 25mm is similar to f/3.5 at 50mm on full frame. I don’t use apertures smaller than f/4 unless I have to.
Feb 25, 2020 08:17:41 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Keithc wrote:
I’m looking for filter suggestions. I am a novice at best, and all of your thoughts and recommendations will be greatly appreciated. We are going to be in the Caribbean in March, Hawaii in June, Alaska in July and September and I need your help in capturing the colors of the water, sunrises and sunsets. Shooting a Nikon 750 with a 28 x 300 VR.
Forget filters. Go to menu, go to Photo Shooting Menu, scroll down to Set Picture Control, go to VIVID, set to your taste. It will give you great colors of the water, sunrises and sunsets. Don't muss with filters, let Nikon to the heavy lifting. Your welcome.
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