dmdpeterdmd

Any suggestions for 35mm very high contrast B&W film?

Example - does pushing B&W film once or twice its iso (ASA) speed, increase contrast?

Darkroom317 Loc: Mishawaka, IN

Ilford Pan F+ 50 ISO

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Try Kodak TMAX or Ilford FP4 Plus for two good contrast films. And / or add a Red or Orange filter, being sure to add positive exposure compensation and process as normal. Red +3 stops or Orange +2 stops. I've found +0.3 or +0.7 EC with no filter and normal processing comes out great with these films.

dmdpeterdmd

Thank you. But if I use a Nikon F6, I do not need the exposure compensation since it is TTL.

MrPhotog

Pushing film a stop or two will increase contrast by losing midtones through under exposure, but you trade this for more grain and negatives that have a lower density.

If you are looking for solid blacks and clear white areas with sharp edges, look for a roll of kodalith in 35 mm, or sheet film. Use with the kodalith developer. The film is orthochromatic. Developed in other developers it is a slow, very fine grain and fine detail film.

You can get higher contrast from most conventional black and white films by developing them in a paper developer (like Dektol). Play with the exposure and start with a 2 minute development time. For much higher contrast use a special high contrast developer, like the Kodalith developer, or if you mix your own use the formula for D-8.

The higher contrast developers are more alkaline than conventional continuous tone developers, and have a higher proportion of hydroquinone.

If you want to try something experimental, mix a quart of working-strength paper developer, like Dektol, and add a teaspoon of lye (sodium hydroxide) which is sold for making soap, and might be available at grocery stores or hardware stores. This makes a vigorous, fast working developer. Try under exposing one stop and develop 1.5 to 2 minutes. Use a fresh acid stop bath before fixing as usual.

Get a reflection gray scale and use that for a test target when testing for contrast. Only a few shots should get you in the ballpark for exposure and development.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

Altering the ISO / ASA of a film (Over-exposing) will increase the density. Increasing the development time / type of developer, will increase the contrast.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Some information here:
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS873US873&ei=M_YSXsb_PMTc-gSWhp3IDA&q=high-contrast+black+and+white+film+photography&oq=high-contrast+black+and+white+film+photography&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i30.26285.28282..32257...0.2..0.83.395.5......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i7i30.masTHY4AioA&ved=0ahUKEwiG5Yuqze7mAhVErp4KHRZDB8kQ4dUDCAs&uact=5

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

You can increase the contrast of conventional film by overdeveloping. You will need to underexpose (expose at a higher ISO) to keep it from getting too dark.

An unconventional film like Adox CMS 20 has a very high natural contrast when exposed between ISO 25 and 100 and developed by conventional means in Rodinal or HC110.

To get CMS 20 to work like a normal film it needs the opposite treatment - overexposure (at ISO 6 or 8) and significant underdevelopment or compensating development.

Kodak Technical Pan film behaved somewhat like CMS 20.

NCMtnMan Loc: N. Fork New River, Ashe Co., NC

Don't know how much contrast you're looking for, but if you can find some Kodak Kodalith film you'll get the ultimate contrast. Basically pure black and white with little to no gray scale. I don't know if they still make it, but have seen it for sale on Ebay. Can give you prints that look like pen and ink drawings. Wish I could find a software that would truly replicate it in digital. No luck so far.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Two other films worth a look are Rollei Retro 80s and 400s.

I tested them extensively and mentioned then in A Practical Guide to Film Characteristic Curves, "They have higher contrast in the mid-tones and lower contrast in the shadows and highlights but the change is gradual and they capture most of the 11 stop range. I ended up rating them at ISO 40 and 125 and the test show that they need more exposure and less development than I gave them initially. "

Both a reasonably priced at B&H and Adorama in 35mm and 120 sizes.

Harald

Decades ago I would push my Tri-X to 6400 ASA from the normal 400 ASA. That would provide high-contrast images and also allow me to shoot in fairly dark places without flash, like at theater performances.

dmdpeterdmd

Wow. Thank you so much for all that great knowledge. I appreciate that. Happy new year. Peter

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

You can increase contrast by using high contrast film developer like Kodak D-8, Kodak D-11 and Kodalith developer. I have used these developers myself on B&W films. You may find them on Ebay, Photoformulary.com or PM me for more info.

dmdpeterdmd

many thanks

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

What do you mean by "very high contrast"? Higher than normal while still continuous tone, or film that produces complete black and complete clear (no shades or tones at all)?
Kodalith Ortho and similar films were used by commercial printers in the reproduction process for printing. Developed in dedicated high contrast developers. Artists used them for a creative technique called "posterization".
Kodalith Ortho used to be available in 35mm rolls.