Light Meter
Dec 15, 2019 08:57:47 #
If you don't do studio flash work is there any reason to have a light meter. Presently I use a Canon 90D and a 6D Mark ll. Thanks.
Dec 15, 2019 09:01:05 #
Only if the camera metering systems do not yield the results one desires?
Dec 15, 2019 09:01:07 #
will47 wrote:
If you don't do studio flash work is there any reason to have a light meter. Presently I use a Canon 90D and a 6D Mark ll. Thanks.
I have 2 meters but I don't use them when I take photos. I use them to measure the light mostly. So if you only consider for photography I don't think you need it.
Dec 15, 2019 09:12:11 #
will47 wrote:
If you don't do studio flash work is there any reason to have a light meter. Presently I use a Canon 90D and a 6D Mark ll. Thanks.
The accuracy of the cameras you have easily out perform all meters.
Also consider that if your zoom lenses have variable apertures the camera meter is infinitely superior as an external meter is clueless as to what the setting is.
Incident metering is ok if you can get next to the subject, but that is hard to do with wildlife or anything over a few feet away.
Dec 15, 2019 09:14:06 #
will47 wrote:
If you don't do studio flash work is there any reason to have a light meter. Presently I use a Canon 90D and a 6D Mark ll. Thanks.
Not if you know your camera, I haven't used a light meter since I went digital .
But I shoot to please me!!! if others like my work that's even better.
Dec 15, 2019 09:18:10 #
BebuLamar wrote:
I have 2 meters but I don't use them when I take photos. I use them to measure the light mostly. So if you only consider for photography I don't think you need it.
Yes, a good light meter works well for measuring light, mostly.
Dec 15, 2019 09:22:03 #
Kmgw9v wrote:
Yes, a good light meter works well for measuring light, mostly.
Even for a period of time the meter on my Nikon Df quit working and before I got it fixed I simply shoot without the meter rather than pulling out my meters.
Dec 15, 2019 09:26:05 #
If you use flash, especially multiple heads, a lightmeter with flash capability can save a ton of time in getting the correct exposure and balance between heads. Also when I shoot MF film with my RB67, I pull out my old Minolta spotmeter - very useful for evaluating DR as well as exposure especially in complex situations.
Dec 15, 2019 09:58:01 #
Architect1776 wrote:
The accuracy of the cameras you have easily out perform all meters.
Also consider that if your zoom lenses have variable apertures the camera meter is infinitely superior as an external meter is clueless as to what the setting is.
Incident metering is ok if you can get next to the subject, but that is hard to do with wildlife or anything over a few feet away.
Also consider that if your zoom lenses have variable apertures the camera meter is infinitely superior as an external meter is clueless as to what the setting is.
Incident metering is ok if you can get next to the subject, but that is hard to do with wildlife or anything over a few feet away.
Dec 15, 2019 11:43:05 #
I've gone back to the way I shot slide film - Generally with Provia 100 - with my EOS3 all on a tripod - All now shot in RAW. That is with the Sekonic L-558 -- For examples see my recent posting DEATH VALLEY --
Decided to do it that way not because the results are better/worse but simply because - at least for me -
It's More FUN !!!
Decided to do it that way not because the results are better/worse but simply because - at least for me -
It's More FUN !!!
Dec 15, 2019 11:55:47 #
will47 wrote:
If you don't do studio flash work is there any
reason to have a light meter. Presently I use
a Canon 90D and a 6D Mark ll. Thanks.
If you don't do studio flash work is there any
reason to have a light meter. Presently I use
a Canon 90D and a 6D Mark ll. Thanks.
The light meters you already have are all you need.
They are conveniently built into your cameras and
are superior to any outboard meters available. The
only unique ability I ever encountered in dozens of
advanced outboard meters I've used is the ability
to accumulate multiple spot readings and then to
average them. If you do that stoopidly, you're just
imitating a non-spot meter. Used wisely, it's magic.
But used wisely, you're pretty much imitating the
magic of the Matrix Metering that has been built
into advanced camera meters for over 30 yrs. So,
no need of an outboard meter ... even for studio
type multiple flash units. Your cameras will do an
excellent job of measuring those as well, a better
job than any outboard device that reads out only
in numeric results.
Squelch your initial reaction to that last sentence
above, the reaction of "impossible, not coupled !"
and then your intuition will show you how easy,
fast, and accurately it works. IOW, I'm not about
to spell it all out right here. [But the last 4 words
in that sentence are the kicker. ]
Dec 15, 2019 12:05:38 #
BebuLamar wrote:
Even for a period of time the meter on my Nikon Df
quit working and before I got it fixed I simply shoot
without the meter rather than pulling out my meters.
Even for a period of time the meter on my Nikon Df
quit working and before I got it fixed I simply shoot
without the meter rather than pulling out my meters.
You mean that the Real Time light meter quit.
If the camera still recorded images, then its
slow-but-very-informative metering function
was still working ... IOW wise use of ability to
make instant, no-cost "Polaroid test shots".
Not as fast as the real time meter would be,
but no slower than an outboard meter, and
more accurate as well. No need to know your
T-stops etc etc.
Dec 15, 2019 12:05:49 #
Like Ken Stern, I use my light meters because it's more fun.
Establishing contrast ranges is faster than pointing the metering spot around on my digital Nikons, and when I'm shooting film, there isn't really an option.
I find the hand metering useful in training my "eye" for exposure, and in visualizing the zones that different levels of the scene will naturally fall on. That said, for family snaps and most scenics, you don't really need one. But in either case, you probably already have one if you have a smart phone. There are a number of light meter apps and they're quite good. It's helpful to have one in your pocket if your in-camera meter fails or you just want to check its accuracy.
Andy
Establishing contrast ranges is faster than pointing the metering spot around on my digital Nikons, and when I'm shooting film, there isn't really an option.
I find the hand metering useful in training my "eye" for exposure, and in visualizing the zones that different levels of the scene will naturally fall on. That said, for family snaps and most scenics, you don't really need one. But in either case, you probably already have one if you have a smart phone. There are a number of light meter apps and they're quite good. It's helpful to have one in your pocket if your in-camera meter fails or you just want to check its accuracy.
Andy
Dec 15, 2019 12:13:37 #
TriX wrote:
If you use flash, especially multiple heads,
a lightmeter with flash capability can save a
ton of time in getting the correct exposure
and balance between heads.
If you use flash, especially multiple heads,
a lightmeter with flash capability can save a
ton of time in getting the correct exposure
and balance between heads.
Any manual mode digital camera can do that
job better than any outboard flashmeter. For
a set up involving a camera on a tripod, then
it will be vastly more convenient to deploy a
second camera as the metering device. Your
old "obsolete" DSLR that you never sold cuz
it has so little cash value will serve very well.
Dec 15, 2019 12:40:35 #
User ID wrote:
You mean that the Real Time light meter quit.
If the camera still recorded images, then its
slow-but-very-informative metering function
was still working ... IOW wise use of ability to
make instant, no-cost "Polaroid test shots".
Not as fast as the real time meter would be,
but no slower than an outboard meter, and
more accurate as well. No need to know your
T-stops etc etc.
If the camera still recorded images, then its
slow-but-very-informative metering function
was still working ... IOW wise use of ability to
make instant, no-cost "Polaroid test shots".
Not as fast as the real time meter would be,
but no slower than an outboard meter, and
more accurate as well. No need to know your
T-stops etc etc.
I guess at the exposure and make test shot. But I found out that I didn't need to make correction shots more than 80% of the time.
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