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Bracketing for HDR
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Nov 5, 2019 14:07:52   #
Whuff Loc: Marshalltown, Iowa
 
MrMophoto wrote:
After going through most of this thread it seems to me there some misconceptions about HDR and how it works. I've been shooting for HDR for about 4-5 years and this is what I've learned.
The HDR programs (in Photoshop or others, I use Photomatix-Pro) blend different exposures of the same image; the reason is that underexposed images will have greater detail in the high lights but almost pure black in the shadows. Alternately, an overexposed image will have blown out white highlights but good detail in the shadows. When shooting you need to have the exact same image for all, just different exposures, thus a tripod is mandatory. Aperture priority is also essential since you want the DOF to be the same in all images. The further you go either over or under exposure will render more details in the extreme ends of the final image (to a point). I use a Canon 60D ( a newer camera is just not in the budget, besides it's not the equipment but what you do with it (another UHH thread)), it has exposure bracketing. Basically you would use one normal exposure and the same number of over exposed images as under exposed images. With my Canon I can set the exposure bracketing for three exposures, I set this first set of three exposures so that the highest is at -2/3 step. Then set the next set of three exposures so that the darkest exposure is +2/3 step. I end up with six exposures, the two closest to a "normal" exposure tend to overlap in their dynamic range. The blended image keeps the details in the highlights as well as the shadows The range from high light detail to shadow detail (hence the name High Dynamic Range). Since you should shoot in Aperture Priority, it helps if nothing is moving making changes in shutter speed a non-issue. Moving objects will be recorded at different places, which will create a blur or out of focus areas. Finally, I shoot in raw only because I'm concerned with the detail in my images that I print at 11" x 17", which is the actual image size once it's processed and saved as a TIFF for the larger color gamut
After going through most of this thread it seems t... (show quote)


Two points in your statements I’d like to address. The first is your statement that a tripod is mandatory - I’ve shot many handheld HDR photos. I’d prefer to use a tripod but there have been times when I didn’t have one with me or the scene had enough light that it just wasn’t necessary.
The 2nd point is more of a clarification about motion and dealing with it. I use Photomatix for HDR processing and find it very easy to use to remove ghosting such as a flag waving in the wind. You simply select any ghosted areas and the program will use one of the exposures (usually the middle exposure) to use for that area.

Walt

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Nov 5, 2019 14:16:13   #
jcboy3
 
kcooke wrote:
I shot manual but changed the aperture to get the exposure differences in #1 and #2 below. These were combined using the HDR function in Lightroom to end up with #3. The HDR function in my Canon 6D MkII generates a JPEG in camera so I wanted to just try this in light room. It was just a quick and dirty test I did last month. its just a throw away snapshot taken in an old log cabin but was done with a tripod


Look at the windows. These are a real mess. This is one reason for not varying aperture.

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Nov 5, 2019 14:19:40   #
nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida
 
jcboy3 wrote:
Look at the windows. These are a real mess. This is one reason for not varying aperture.


YUP

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Nov 5, 2019 14:30:47   #
nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida
 
hpucker99 wrote:
Very nice shots, thanks for the shooting info.


Thank you ,I started HDRI when the first books came out about it ,And the magazines from the U.K like digital camera world I got hooked and kept it on .But now with my D810 and 14.8 stops of light at base ISO 64 I sometimes use only 2 . Practically no noise @ Iso 64 even in dark areas ...

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Nov 5, 2019 15:28:38   #
Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb
 
This is a Photomatix HDR batch run./Users/studavis/Desktop/847A0092_3_4.jpg

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Nov 5, 2019 15:36:19   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
Picture Taker wrote:
This is a Photomatix HDR batch run./Users/studavis/Desktop/847A0092_3_4.jpg
Here's how to post a photo to UHH:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/help/how_to_post_a_picture.jsp

.

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Nov 5, 2019 15:41:08   #
Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb
 
I know I tried to drag a JPG and I failed. Don't know what I'm doing wrong.

Oh well, no loss

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Nov 5, 2019 15:55:53   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
Picture Taker wrote:
I know I tried to drag a JPG and I failed. Don't know what I'm doing wrong.

Oh well, no loss
If you click on the link I provided, all will be made clear (you can't drag and drop to this site)

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Nov 5, 2019 16:16:32   #
jcboy3
 
nikonbrain wrote:
Thank you ,I started HDRI when the first books came out about it ,And the magazines from the U.K like digital camera world I got hooked and kept it on .But now with my D810 and 14.8 stops of light at base ISO 64 I sometimes use only 2 . Practically no noise @ Iso 64 even in dark areas ...


I rarely use HDR; bracket to get the best exposure and crush the blacks to kill the noise.

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Nov 5, 2019 17:00:06   #
Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan
 
Picture Taker wrote:
This is a Photomatix HDR batch run./Users/studavis/Desktop/847A0092_3_4.jpg


You posted the location of the photo on your hard drive. Upload it here for us to see.

Mike

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Nov 5, 2019 18:46:39   #
RGG
 
carney2 wrote:
I shoot mostly RAW and bounce back and forth between aperture and shutter priority, depending on the subject and circumstances. My question: Which do you prefer, aperture or shutter priority, for bracketing if you are shooting for HDR processing? Aperture, of course, means that your shutter speeds will vary, while shutter means that your aperture will change with each shot. My gut tells me to shoot shutter priority and let the aperture change.

Your opinion?


M for Manual! Keep the Aperture constant and shoot several shutter speeds. Try different combinations in Post Processing. You don't want the DOF to vary from shot to shot.

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Nov 5, 2019 20:43:40   #
PhotosBySteve
 
NEITHER! Manual mode works best for me, I change the shutter speed or ISO to change the exposure between bracketed shots. If there are no moving objects in the scene, I use SS , otherwise ISO. Aperature should remain constant when bracketing.

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Nov 5, 2019 20:55:32   #
DoriguzziPA
 
<< If you change the aperture, then you are muddying the water, so to speak.>>

Correct! Always keep the aperture consistent. Not sure if any mentioned this but, since shutter speeds may get slow AND to help keep the images aligned, always do this on a tripod.

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Nov 6, 2019 00:10:59   #
kymarto Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
 
Absolutely easy to use aperture priority to do exposure brackets; I have no idea why people would trouble themselves with manual exposure.

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Nov 6, 2019 01:03:53   #
smussler Loc: Land O Lakes, FL - Formerly Miller Place, NY
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
You are selecting the "exposure bracketing" function and setting the exposure values, i.e. 1/3, 1/2 stop or full stop increments? You are not changing aperture, right? Maybe I mis-read the OP; time will tell


I use the auto-bracketing feature in either A or S mode. (Mostly A - to maintain DOF) In A mode, 3 sequential shots are at different shutter speeds. In S mode, 3 sequentially made shots will be made by auto adjusting the aperture (Not sure what happens if aperture is wide open for the first shot.)

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