olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

Some folks have reported pretty good results mounting the vacuum cleaner suction hose to the mount end of the big lenses and using suction combined with light vibration/tapping to shake lose and suck out dust. I imagine the results vary a lot by lens design ) and whethter or not big end is sealed, or element removed for cleaning, etc.). Unless it is really dusty (or other) you will never see it in a photo, but if enough on an element or two, it could start to cut light (in minute amounts) as things progress.

Generally you can get to several of the internal elements from the big end, and sometimes one or two from mount end without a major disassembly project. A good memory, or removed parts placement strategy (and pics) will help you if you don't have any, or very little experience with internal lens cleaning, if you are a good technician, not so difficult, if ham fisted I'd recommend going to a pro. There can be lots of tiny surprises inside!!!

I do clean my own lenses and ones that I buy used, but there are considerations, especially with focus stack on modern lenses - some, if disturbed, will no longer focus unless computer/laser alignment equipment is employed (no mechanical adjustment capability) so care must be taken, and always research the lens you intend to clean so you know what extra issues you could induce. The older pure mechanical lenses are generally a pleasure to work on, the modern stuff can be anywhere from reasonable to very difficult (circuit boards, ribbon cables, connectors, various motor types, etc. etc.), and getting info (like factory repair manuals) can be anywhere from easy to hard, cheap to expensive.

davesit Loc: Media, PA

I assumed you are talking about the G1, which is notorious of sucking in dirt when zooming, and then with almost all the dirt wound up on the back surface of the first group of elements. It's actually not terribly hard to clean it yourself. There are 3 Torx (T2 size I believe) that once removed opened up the front group to be removed. Just be careful in preserving and marking the small metal shims that accompany the second set of screws. Checkout YouTube.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

630

Overthehill1

First, I'd like to thank all the hoggers who replied to my question. Lots of good information here and tips to guide my eventual decision. Second, I should apologize for not specifying a budget. It would be in the $300-500 range, which would eliminate many of the longer and most up-to-date options. I am encouraged by those not as mathematically challenged as I am that a 300mm lens with 1.4x converter and crop sensor will give me about 600mm to work with. Thanks again to all.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

No - 300 on a DX body has a FOV as a 450 on an FX (300 X 1.5). Then X 1.4 for the TC -> 630.

Anyone?

Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

I have an older sigma 150-500mm on a D7200. I paid 168.00 for it and sent it to sigma and told them I was using a D7200. When I got it back a week later it was and is tack sharp and I'm Anal. Cost me 120.00 with shipping included. The replaced a pcb board and tuned it up. For 300.00 it's awesome

Canisdirus

I was not adding in the teleconverter. Aperture is now even smaller.
It's at f/6.1 without tele.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I will never understand the logic behind suggesting that a "good deal" on a lens that isn't even close to what the OP has. He's got a very sharp lens - that 80-200 was one of the sharpest in that range made by Nikon. The $75 consumer targeted 70-300mm lenses can't hold a candle to that lens, even if he uses it with the 1.4 TC.

The reason I refrained from suggesting the 100-400s from Tamron and Sigma is that they are a bit slow, and do need to be stopped down to get them to be really crisp. Again, the goal I think is to get at least as good image quality as what he now has and I don't think these lenses can do that. The 200-500 is a good choice though. I did find the Tamron G2 and the Sigma Sport sharper,

Leo_B Loc: Houston suburb

What about going to a 2.0TC with the current lens? And I don't shoot any of this or know about it, just asking out of earnest curiosity and hope of being helpful.

JohnR Loc: The Gates of Hell

Your Math is incorrect. A 300mm on DX format D7000 is equivalent to 450mm on a FX format camera. IMO a 500mm lens is the way to go as it gives you the equivalent field of view of a 750mm 35mm format camera

cambriaman Loc: Central CA Coast

I don't think you can do better than the Nikon 200-500mm.

sergiohm

Hate to bring bad news but $500 will not get you very far, used try
1. Tamron 150-600mm g1
2. Nikon 80–400 mm v1

https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-nikkor-80-400mm-f-4-5-5-6d-ed-vr-af-telephoto-zoom-lens.html?prod_id=329898&aid=329898&rmatt=tsid:%7Ccid:329600331%7Cagid:1308418981015500%7Ctid:pla-4585375806652313%7Ccrid:%7Bcreative%7D%7Cnw:o%7Crnd:%7Brandom%7D%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:%7Badposition%7D&msclkid=9a1b3476817119a92cf369c617e60ca9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA%20-%20Lenses%20%5BGeneric%5D&utm_term=4585375806652313&utm_content=SLR%20Lenses

Good luck

adamsg Loc: Chubbuck, ID

I strongly recommend you look at the Nikon USA site for their refurb iced lenses. I bought my daughter and son-in-law a Nikon 70-300 mm zoom for $149.50 form the site It is an AF lens and was in beautiful shape. a 300 mm will effectively be the equivalent of a larger telephoto if you work in the 1.5 crop ode on your camera. I have a D7100 and that gives me good pictures with which to work. I personally, use a 55-300 Nikon lens and find that the 1.5 setting works very well. The site does have larger tiles from time to time.

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Seems lots of people neglected to note that the OP said this ," Second, I should apologize for not specifying a budget. It would be in the $300-500 range, which would eliminate many of the longer and most up-to-date options.", several posts back....