User ID

Prolly 105 or 200 Micro Nikkor

(Download)

User ID

This whole thread is greatly about
lenses, but I never take notes. My
method is to work in-the-moment
so whatever happened working in
the past is of no value to me. OK,
I realize it's spozed to be of value
to somebodies else ... but nobody
ever lizzens to me anywho, so no
loss. No harm, no foul. Where I'm
halfway semi-sure about lens data
I post it as such.

Best "well-reasoned guess" in this
instance would be a Vivitar 17mm.

(Download)

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

I am assuming that is a macro set up, personally I use a 28mm lens reversed on tubes.

Minolta 28mm f/2.8 Celtic reversed on M42 Tubes

(Download)

b top gun

I would like to contribute samples to this thread but something stupid is happening that will not allow me to attach images right now. That being noted, I use four Nikkor manual focus lenses on both a D7100 and D850. My favorite is a Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 which I have used for shooting after dark when need be. That lens is soooooo much lighter than my 24-70 Nikon. The lens almost looks out of place on either body it is that small. I have used it for some video testing as well. I have it with me all the time. All my Nikkor manual focus are primes and all have been made in Japan.

agillot

i use a D300 , with old film era lenses included T mounts .the camera has a non cpu lens setting .that way it know the f stop setting and length of tele . it work well in manual or A priority .never been able to post pictures here , just too weird , but could see what you can do with what you guys call junk .even the cheap [ junk ] lenses need love .

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Nice!

I have had 3 old ultra wide lenses from back in the day and still own two of them. The Takumar 17mm f/4 fisheye which I ended up selling when I bought some other gear, I think I let it go for $250 so it was nothing to sneeze at, I still have a Canon 17mm f/4 but the focus helicoid is tight with hardening lubricant, and a Sigma 18mm f/2.8 with built in filters which personally I am not fond of.

Of the three lenses however the Sigma is the most interesting to look at, a very large lens barrel tapering down into a M42 mount. The Canon also has a very large filter thread, the Takumar was more of a pancake lens and also had the built in filters Orange, Yellow, and UV again which I really do not care for.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I have a couple images (actually a lot more then that), but these two are the easiest and fastest to find. These were shot with a Canon 5D and an old Pentax 75mm/2.8 (in reverse) for the wasp and an old Pentax 120mm/f4 for the spider

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Nice.... I still own a couple of Macro lenses but after shooting reversed lenses it is hard to pull the macro lenses out, you can get so much closer (larger reproduction) with the reversed lenses.

RichinSeattle

The Nikon D850 allows (encourages) the user to register any "non-CPU" lenses you intend to use. It asks for max aperture and focal length, and will register as many as ten lenses, showing their data in EXIF. Each time you mount such a lens, you have to tell the camera which lens you'll be using.

smf85 Loc: Freeport, IL

1st two - Nikon D200 - Nikkor-Q 13.5cm 3.5 - glass c.1962 (possibly older)
Third - Nikon Z - Nikkor-S 35mm 2.8 w/UV Bandpass filter - glass c.1969

(Download)


(Download)


(Download)

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Thanks for posting, you know when the focal length is measured in cm that you are dealing with an old lens. I had a couple of Nikkor Q lenses but never found the appropriate adapter so I sold them.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Konica Hexagon 57mm f/1.4.

This is the camera lens I remember from my High School days, it was on my dad's camera which he bought back in the 60's. His lens is long gone the camera was shot and I probably got rid of the lens because before mirrorless you simply could not mount Konica lenses to Canon EOS bodies. Well now that I am shooting mirrorless I have replaced the lens and these are the first images I have taken with it.

For me the biggest wonder of old glass is the bokeh that some of these lenses produce, some of you may be familiar with Toby Marshall a member here that does extraordinary work with backgrounds. His work is much more illustrative of what you can do with some of these lenses than what I am posting here, but even so background blur and balls is one of the first things I take a look at with an old lens.

So this is the first time I have used this lens and I just used it around the house to take an initial look at sharpness and out of focus backgrounds. I focused on the flower's stamen. The Bokeh balls were produced by shooting out of the front window in the direction of a small palm and adjusting focus to produce different sized balls. The trick when shooting is knowing what distances between your camera and background as well as between your subject and its background, please click on the link I provided for Toby to see how creative this can be, there are several images in his post, he was using a Canon 50mm f/0.95 LTM, beautiful images. I looked for that old lens on eBay, it is currently selling between $2500 and $3000, don't think that I am going to be getting one anytime soon.

I found this lens to be acceptably sharp wide open at f/1.4 and surprisingly sharp when stopped down to f/5.6. The Bokeh for me is interesting but I will have see if I am good enough to do something creative with it.

Wide open at f/1.4

(Download)

f/5.6

(Download)


(Download)


(Download)


(Download)

smf85 Loc: Freeport, IL

Old lenses are better for UV bandwidth photography - modern lenses have UV absorbing coatings as part of the multi-coating they have. Digital camera's all have a 'hot mirror' filter that blocks UV, a bayer filter which absorbs UV, and a micro lens array that absorbs UV. Removing the 'hot mirror' filter and replacing it with a piece of glass is straightforward and you can get it done easily. Removing the bayer filter and microlens array is extremely difficult as it is both epoxied to the sensor and removing filter/array will cause a significant focus shift. There aren't any clear glass replacements available so there isn't any way to correct the focus shift without recalibrating the lens for the shifted focal plane - which makes the lens unusable for normal photography. A the same problem exists with lens multi-coating the answer there is to use old glass which isn't multicoated. Which is a long way to say that I've dusted my old manual lens collection off and trying to use them for UV photography. The only way I know of to get around the bayer filter and lens array issues it to either buy a achromatic camera from Phase1 - $50k or use high speed film.