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Best enlargement software
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Sep 22, 2019 07:37:39   #
jwinberg1
 
EXCELLENT SUMMARY - THANKS!!

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Sep 22, 2019 07:49:25   #
Bill_de Loc: US
 
Gene51 wrote:
The number of ppi you need when you make your prints bigger decreases as you increase the print size because it is presumed that your viewing distance increases as well.


Presumed isn't much different than assumed. I have never been anywhere that most people don't stick their noses to the image unless there is a barrier to keep them away. A few weeks ago I went to an exhibit at the Peninsula Gallery in Lewes. I got their early as I knew one of the exhibitors and her grandmother (a good friend) kind of insisted. I got to take a nice look at everything displayed as you suggest. I had already seen them on my computer.

Once people started coming in nobody stood far enough back that they could see the entirety of the images without actually turning their heads. I thought, if only Gene were here he might give these folks a lesson.

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Sep 22, 2019 08:52:03   #
johnpolizzi
 
COHappyHiker wrote:
Does anyone have opinions about the best enlargement software?


I'm not sure what you mean by "enlargement software", but if you're concerned with enhancing detail from an image, then Lightroom/Photoshop is good and I also use Topaz Studio. An application called AI clear works wonders on an image. This image is using only about 25% of an APSC sensor.



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Sep 22, 2019 09:01:30   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
COHappyHiker wrote:
Does anyone have opinions about the best enlargement software?


Ps/Lr are enough — until they aren’t. On1 resize is the classic tool for huge prints.

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Sep 22, 2019 09:21:52   #
sodapop Loc: Bel Air, MD
 
Resizing is simple and technically excellent in Photoshop

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Sep 22, 2019 09:37:22   #
Bill_de Loc: US
 
johnpolizzi wrote:
I'm not sure what you mean by "enlargement software", but if you're concerned with enhancing detail from an image, then Lightroom/Photoshop is good and I also use Topaz Studio. An application called AI clear works wonders on an image. This image is using only about 25% of an APSC sensor.


That image as posted doesn't tell us anything about how big an enlargement you can get. A few of the pictures I post here look pretty good, or so I am told. If you tried to print an 8x10 you might be hard pressed to recognize the smaller elements.

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Sep 22, 2019 09:37:31   #
bleirer
 
Gene51 wrote:
Technically you aren't making bigger pixels, just putting space between the existing pixels and letting the software take it's best guess from what is adjacent to the spaces - aka interpolation. What programs like Genuine Fractals/ON1 Perfect Resize and others do is adjust contrast at edges and provide good antialiasing so linear elements that are not perfectly vertical or horizontal, or curved elements appear without the "stair-stepping" effect that comes when you do extreme resizing. Resizing software also increases high frequency contrast at transitions and removes artifacts and noise - providing a "cleaner", "sharper" appearance.

That being said, for modest resizing upwards, the resizing algorithms in Photoshop and Lightroom are pretty good. Photoshop gives you a choice as to which interpolation you can use, Lightroom doesn't.

One thing that the software will NOT do is add detail. If you didn't capture it applying resizing software isn't magically going to put it back. Any image with a lot of texture (small frequency detail) just looks weird when resized with any technique.

Also, if you are sending your work out to a commercial lab, their RIP (Raster Image Processor) will do the same enhancements on a modest up-res without needing to process the image.

The number of ppi you need when you make your prints bigger decreases as you increase the print size because it is presumed that your viewing distance increases as well. A 4"x6" print will need around 360 ppi to look sharp, while a 40x60 only needs around 32 ppi for acceptable results, and anything higher would put it in the excellent category.

http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/printing/resolution/1_which_resolution_print_size_viewing_distance.htm

One last thing - if you are printing your own work, Qimage software will optimize the image for printing, doing a lot of the same enhancements a commercial RIP will do.

This article compares a few resizing programs, including Photoshop CC with Preserve Details enabled.

https://photographylife.com/how-to-increase-the-resolution-of-an-image

In any case, I usually get more controllable results by adjusting the microcontrast and applying the correct amount of sharpening and de-noising in an image. It's not uncommon for an image to require different amounts of enhancement in different areas.

But don't expect a cellphone image resized to higher mp to look like it was taken with a Phase One IQ4 150MP medium format camera. It won't.
Technically you aren't making bigger pixels, just ... (show quote)


I definitely am going to try the Photoshop preserve details rather than my tried and true bicubic. Going from Lightroom I'm thinking to slide to zero any default sharpening but do the usual Denoise, then into Photoshop for Resampling, then sharpening with smart sharpen, maybe see if Gaussian looks better. Sound like a plan?

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Sep 22, 2019 10:41:10   #
a6k Loc: Detroit & Sanibel
 
CaptureOne is the best of all that I've tried, including ON1's special purpose application. It wasn't even close.

But I can't comment on the Adobe programs because I have not compared them to CaptureOne.

In CaptureOne you set the DPI and the size of the intended print when you export to TIFF of JPG. Inherent in that is, potentially, up-sizing and the necessary computations at the pixel level. I have posted examples here before.

I have used it to make a 4' x 6' print from my crop-frame Sony a6500 with excellent results. That's feet, not inches.

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Sep 22, 2019 11:07:51   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
These are the links I've accumulated on enlarging. I hope something helps.

https://petapixel.com/2016/10/14/free-software-can-upscale-enlarge-photos-better-photoshop/
https://lifehacker.com/a-sharper-scaling-upscales-images-better-than-photoshop-1787822740
http://www.wpbeginner.com/beginners-guide/how-to-resize-and-make-images-larger-without-losing-quality/
http://www.howtogeek.com/292081/how-big-of-a-photo-can-i-print-from-my-phone-or-camera/
http://a-sharper-scaling.com/
http://www.benvista.com/photozoomclassic
https://www.on1.com/apps/resize9/

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Sep 22, 2019 11:20:42   #
cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX
 
Not strictly for enlargement. For other purposes, some non-Adobe products can add to Photoshop.

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Sep 22, 2019 11:50:12   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
COHappyHiker wrote:
I have both - I was wondering if an additional software would be beneficial.


No......

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Sep 22, 2019 11:55:38   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Bill_de wrote:
Presumed isn't much different than assumed. I have never been anywhere that most people don't stick their noses to the image unless there is a barrier to keep them away. A few weeks ago I went to an exhibit at the Peninsula Gallery in Lewes. I got their early as I knew one of the exhibitors and her grandmother (a good friend) kind of insisted. I got to take a nice look at everything displayed as you suggest. I had already seen them on my computer.

Once people started coming in nobody stood far enough back that they could see the entirety of the images without actually turning their heads. I thought, if only Gene were here he might give these folks a lesson.

--
Presumed isn't much different than assumed. I have... (show quote)


I don't sweat the people who do walk up to the prints. It's no different than fine art - where, even with the Hudson School paintings, you go close at your own "peril". It's their loss if they need to focus on brush patterns (or grain/noise/sharpness, etc). I don't create art for the people who insist on pixel peeping. I do it for those who appreciate composition, form, contrast, use of color, expression, etc. They are the ones who actually buy art. The others usually don't.

Funny thing is, I'll bet you didn't realize that when you go to a movie theater and you look at the posters announcing upcoming films, you are looking at 90 ppi prints. And they look pretty darn good.

I'll be in Lewes later this afternoon for a Beer Meetup - is the exhibit still up and is it worth making a little side trip to Peninsula?

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Sep 22, 2019 11:57:28   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
a6k wrote:
CaptureOne is the best of all that I've tried, including ON1's special purpose application. It wasn't even close.

But I can't comment on the Adobe programs because I have not compared them to CaptureOne.

In CaptureOne you set the DPI and the size of the intended print when you export to TIFF of JPG. Inherent in that is, potentially, up-sizing and the necessary computations at the pixel level. I have posted examples here before.

I have used it to make a 4' x 6' print from my crop-frame Sony a6500 with excellent results. That's feet, not inches.
CaptureOne is the best of all that I've tried, inc... (show quote)


I've made (and sold) prints from images taken with my 6.1 mp Nikon D70S without the use of any special software. I even think I was using Capture One 3 at the time. I think C1 is the best raw converter, and nearly a complete solution. I can't completely create a finished image without some work in Photoshop, though.

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Sep 22, 2019 11:58:14   #
kenArchi Loc: Seal Beach, CA
 
What enlargement program do they use for billboards?

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Sep 22, 2019 12:11:16   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
bleirer wrote:
I definitely am going to try the Photoshop preserve details rather than my tried and true bicubic. Going from Lightroom I'm thinking to slide to zero any default sharpening but do the usual Denoise, then into Photoshop for Resampling, then sharpening with smart sharpen, maybe see if Gaussian looks better. Sound like a plan?


It's a plan worth exploring, for sure. There is no tried and true, one size fits all approach to sharpening and noise removal, which is the principal reason I haven't shot jpeg since 2006. I don't care for the ham-handed way the camera approaches noise, sharpening and contrast.

I almost always do a little sharpening, and I look at detail, diameter, and when there are extensive areas of detail-less areas, masking. Holding down the alt key while manipulating the masking slider in the sharpening dialog will initially show you a white image - which indicates that the entire image is being sharpened. As you move the slider to the right, you start to get more black. What is left in white are edges and transitions - and those are elements you definitely want to sharpen. Done this way in Lightroom you can minimize the oversharpening halos. I address color and tonal noise in LR as well.

When I move an image into Photoshop I have had great success doing a two-stage sharpen with unsharp mask. First stage is a huge radius - as much as 170 pixels or more (or less), and a relatively small amount, like 15% to 30%.This sets up the microcontrast to my liking. Then I do a conventional sharpen with a small radius - between .5 and 1 pixel, and as high as 400% (or more/less).

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