frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

bigguytf

There have been a lot of good suggestions in this and I would add only two.

Frames per second on your camera, the more the better If your camera only shoots 3.5 frames per second you will miss a lot of action that a camera that shoots 8 frames per second will.

While I have a 70-200 4L IS I am amazed at the quality of the Canon 70-300 IS II nano is. Unless you are a pro, this is a good quality lens with good color capture, as well as good range and price point.

bigguytf

There have been a lot of good suggestions in this and I would add only two.

Frames per second on your camera, the more the better If your camera only shoots 3.5 frames per second you will miss a lot of action that a camera that shoots 8 frames per second will.

While I have a 70-200 4L IS I am amazed at the quality of the Canon 70-300 IS II nano is. Unless you are a pro, this is a good quality lens with good color capture, as well as good range and price point.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

FPS is over played.
Great sports action shots have been captured with pro cameras at 3.5 fps. Skill counted rather than spray and pray. even at 8fps the peak action will by odds occur in between shots.

wetreed

You should consider getting a Nikon D500 with a zoom that goes at least to 300mm

aellman Loc: Boston MA

I would never use 1/250 for fast moving sports. More like at least 1/500. The best way for the OP to determine that figure is to do some tests at different shutter speeds.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

These days, people are much more interested in needle-sharpness than we were in the Age of Film.

Low Budget Dave

Sounds like you have (some) good advice. I will try to summarize my favorite parts:

1. Make sure you are getting the most out of the equipment you already own before trying new equipment.

2. An inexpensive 200mm lens (or longer) will give you better results than cropping a 28-80 lens. The Canon kit "long" zoom is the 75-300, which (I think) you can buy for only about $100, and is a very good lens for the money. (Make sure you get the version that works with your camera, I think there are two versions.)

3. Use 1/500 shutter speed to avoid motion blur. Don't let the camera pick the shutter speed for you. You can shoot in shutter priority, or full manual. (Your camera might have a "sports" mode, but I don't trust those.)

4. For football "under the lights", if you shoot at 1/500, and your lens only opens up to F5.6 like the 75-300, you will have to shoot at ISO 1600 or above. Most likely, you will have to shoot at ISO 3200. If the pictures look fine to you, then you have solved your problem.

5. If the pictures look too dark or grainy at 1/500; F5.6; ISO 3200, then it might be time to start looking at faster lenses. If you find the lens you want but your camera does not support it, then that is the time to start looking at different cameras.

Beware, though. This is a money sink. The Canon EF200mm F2 L is a beautiful lens. It will produce amazing shots, and will let you get that ISO down to 400 or lower. It costs about $5,500. That is not a typo. It is a beast of a lens, and there are people who make their living with it. It might be worth renting it (along with a big camera) for a big game just to see if you love it. The danger is that you might fall in love with it and start trying to justify it to yourself.

khorinek

Yes, the Canon 200 f/2 is a great lens, but not necessary for what he wants to do. A 70-200 f/2.8 would suffice.

lbrande

I was using the 200mm f1.8 lens, as were several others for indoor hockey.

Low Budget Dave

Sorry, I didn't mean to scare anyone.

The EF 200mm F2.8L II is about $700, and it is plenty good to use for indoor sports.

The 70-200 F2.8L is about $1300, and it is also plenty good for indoor sports.

I was just giving an example, but yes, there are tons of good distance lenses out there, and if you are willing to look at other brands besides Canon, you can save even more money without giving up much at all.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Without knowing more about your budget, your current lenses and your comfort with post processing, I can't give you much useful advice other than to echo what has come before. The T3 is a fine basic camera that will give you fine results of well lit sporting events.

Please let us know what equipment you have and what you are comfortable doing in post.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

If you really wanted to scare people, you could talk about getting a Canon 1DX camera - I've seen professional photographs of sports taken with them at ISO values like 6000, where also any lens can be used.

Silverrails

I would say most if not all of your sports Photography will be from the Bleacher seats, maybe from the top row to be sure you have vision over top of most of the other parents at the games
So, you should have a good Zoom lens, shooting preferably at a higher Shutter-Speed to avoid "Blur"
Most average Zoom lens will not offer the best Aperture choice, so adding that it may be evening and light might be an issue, you will possibly require a Higher ISO.
If affordable, consider the Canon 70-300 2.8 lens, you can rent it to try it out.
Almost forgot, a Tripod may be a consideration also.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

but need to be prepared to do without tripod since many gyms don't allow them.