PattyW60 Loc: Northwest Illinois

I tried taking some volleyball pictures last week, but am disappointed in my results. My first obstacle was the lighting, which I initially didn't think was too bad, but my camera told a different story. haha I finally ended up in Manual mode with auto ISO. I understand the game of volleyball, so anticipating shots/plays is helpful. I could really use some advice/tips from those of you who are experienced at taking volleyball pics. First, I'm curious what camera settings you generally use. Do you tend to shoot in manual mode, or shutter priority? What is your preferred shutter speed for volleyball? Probably more importantly, what have you found to be the most desired angle to shoot from? Since this was my first match, I sat in the front row of bleachers, about 5-10 feet past the 10 foot line. Is it best to be higher up? Right along the net? Shooting from behind the end line? Lastly, what is your lens choice/desired focal length? Do you tend to shoot wide and crop later?

Thank you for any advice you can give. I really appreciate it! I'll post a couple of photos so you can critique and help me with my faults. I was shooting with a Canon 5d markiv and Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L II.

Thank you!
Patty

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Joe Blow

My experience is with our rug rat's school basketball career. Where ever you sit will give a different angle and shots. I would suggest moving a couple of times during the game to try out different views. One thing though is to do your best not to obstruct the view of others watching the game.

While your samples don't show it, be careful about trying to get shots on the other side of the net. The net will throw your auto-focus off. I used a wider telephoto when near the court, such as a 24-70 and bigger when sitting in the stands, such as 70-200. Don't be shy about cropping the photo in post to get a better shot and level to correct the angle.

The one angle I personally dislike is level. Either slightly above or below the action has much more impact. That is because there is less background to distract from the action. Shooting across the court puts those on the other side in view. Shooting up puts the further side even more out of focus. Shooting down leaves the court itself as the background.

School gyms are notorious for poor photography lighting. Those in the stands don't notice, but cameras do. Usually I will boost the ISO to 1600 or even 3200 and shoot between 320 and 500 along with a f4.0 or f5.6. Too wide an aperture can cause its own problems with moving action, but, that is also a matter of personal taste. My experience is while some motion blur of people is undesirable, motion blur of the ball isn't and may even add to the shot. You seem to have hit all the technical requirements in your samples.

Set your color for incandescent (3200K) or auto. This though is one reason I shoot RAW; so the color may be corrected later if needed. Older lights tend to get pink while newer lights are generally bluer.

And my caveat remains that my opinion and $1.19 gets you a coffee at the Family Express gas station. Enjoy your volleyball game. Your samples are well done.

Jaackil Loc: Massachusetts

Hi Patty
Those are pretty good images. What do you feel comes up short about them? Exposure to me seems fine. I have shot volleyball, I shot my niece’s team in the New England Prep School playoffs a few years ago. I mostly shoot hockey which has similar challenges.
As for camera settings. First your gear seems fine for the task. When I shot my niece’s team I used a 50mm 1.8. The 70-200 seemed a little tight for me. I shoot hockey with either a 50mm or 85 mm 1.8. I usually shoot wide open. auto iso auto white balance with a shutter speed as fast as I can push it with a minimum of 800 preferably 1000 or faster if I can get away with it without too much noise. I always shoot raw because the exposure and white balence will need some work in post processing. The problem with the lighting in high school gyms is the lights tend to cycle or flicker, the cycling happens too fast for the human eye to notice but a camera will catch it and you will end up with different exposures from shot to shot sometimes. The same happens with white balence. Personally I shoot manual but shutter priority will work too. Also I shoot back button focus.
One thing I notice about your photos and this is just my personal preference is in the pictures you posted there are a lot of backs. I prefer faces. So I position myself where I can shoot faces usually around the net is best. But you have a longer lens so you could shoot across the court from the serve line I like to get as low as I can so I am shooting slightly up at the players. If I can I kneel on the floor rather than shooting standing up. To me a really dramatic angle is shooting net play shooting up. You know the game so pick spots on the floor where you know you can get the action and capture the faces. I tend to shoot a little wide to account for the movement of players and crop down in post but I also like to shoot some tight shoots just torso and head or even tighter. Facial expressions to me make the shots. I have had plenty of parents come up to me and ask how I get such amazing shots when I look at their shots the only difference between mine and theirs is I got faces and they got backs and the difference is so subtle they don’t even notice it till I point it out to them. The last tip is don’t forget the emotion shots. For example at a match point (not sure if that it what it is called in Vball). Instead of shooting players on the floor turn to the bench and maybe capture the emotion of the players and coaches on the bench at the time a point is scored If you are shooting a player serving instead of following the ball stay with the server maybe you will catch her emotion if she aces a serve. In volleyball when a point is scored we tend to drop the camera from our eye but stay with the shot and capture the faces of the players celebrating the point. You will get tons of shots of players playing the ball after a while they will all look the same but the shots of players celebrating a point or showing emotion will stand out. Lastly go online and look at vball images find ones you really like and copy those angles when you shoot. Good luck. I hope some of this helps.

Jaackil Loc: Massachusetts

Joe I agree with the points you are making here except aperture. For sports the reason to go wide is to separate your subject from everything else. Too narrow and you get everything in focus and it becomes a boring shot. You shouldn’t have any problem with motion because of aperture that only controls depth of feild. Motion is controlled by shutter speed. Bump up your shutter speed. For most sports you need to be at 800 or more to freeze motion. In my opinion which is worth less than that cup of coffee 320-500 is too slow. Open the aperture up if the lens allows it and bump up the shutter speed.
One additional thing I would add. Burst shoot. I am not talking about spray and pray but if you anticipate the action hold the shutter down and burst away. I typically shoot 300-500 shots at a hockey game to get maybe 30-60 keepers that I share with others. I shoot College NCAA level hockey. I thought that was a lot until I talked to seasoned pro’s who shoot proffesional sports for wire services and magazines and found out they shoot 1000 plus to get between 1-5 that end up published. Of course when you are shooting memories it’s different than shooting for SI. But more is still better the trick is being able to delete anything that is not perfect. If you(not you specifically) walk away with 10 amazing shots it’s alot better than 100 mediocre shots. My advice to the OP is only worry about your best shots not every shot. You are looking for a few great shots and to get those you need to take a lot

PattyW60 Loc: Northwest Illinois

Thank you so much, Joe!! I appreciate all of your comments and advice!! A couple of things: I do shoot in RAW and am using auto ISO, since I can adjust later. I generally use spot metering, but I'm thinking I should've changed that to center weighted or evaluative for this type of shooting. That might've been a source of my frustration (or added to it, anyway) on a few shots and dealing with lighting, background, and color of uniforms.

I do plan to move around at my next match. I came in late to this one (had to finish music rehearsals at church), so being the shy introvert that I am, I picked the closest seat I could find so as not to interfere with the fans. The first game was just ending and they switched sides, putting the team I wanted to shoot on the side of the court I was sitting. Unfortunately, there wasn't a third game, so really only shot from one angle. I was kinda testing the waters, so to speak; experimenting with settings, and giving thought to positioning for the next time. I will try some of the angles you suggested, next time!

I stuck with my 70-200, but I will try using my 24-70 f/2.8 next time. It might be a little easier to crop in tighter, later. I'm looking forward to my next go at it! Thanks again for all of your help!
Patty

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

I shoot other "sports" in gyms and have dealt with lighting of all types. My camera's auto WB settings are usually sufficient, as I do shoot RAW, and in general I'm full manual as the light usually is pretty consistent (that said, sometimes lights cycle, usually at 60 hz, but you may have flicker reduction in your camera which will help, otherwise it's hell in post). You want to get as much shutter as you can without overextending the ISO component for your particular camera (I'm lucky that my D5 can go 6400 easily and even another stop if necessary). I shoot as wide as I can get (always after shutter and isolation of subject) and I'm thinking your 70-200 should be outstanding for this action. I would, however, have the 24-70 on hand just in case, lol. The net comment was pertinent as I've been caught "pants down" in similar situations.

tom kf4wol

And My Two Cents of Coffee..

When I attempt to shoot in High School Gyms. I use a "White Coffee Filter", and using the Pre-Set Color Balance capture a Pre-Set Color from the filter.

I have found using pre-set with the White Coffee Filter, and shooting in Raw gives me the best Color Balance options as I also use Lightroom tinkering to enhance my attempts.

My preferred lenses is the 24-70mm f2.8, and the 50mm f1.8 with volley Ball. Basket Ball games I often also use my 70-200mm f2.8..

And as stated by others, Camera picks up lighting or lack of lighting in various areas, and angles of the Gym Our eyes often don't see.

Thanks for sharing Your Photos, I always learn something from others.

tom

PattyW60 Loc: Northwest Illinois

Thank you for these great tips, Jaackil!! I really do appreciate your time in responding to my post!! I agree...too many backs! I would've preferred more faces at the net, and that's my own fault for not feeling comfortable in moving. I will hopefully be a little more at ease in doing that the next time. I have to be!! haha I do use BBF (love it, and learned about it from this site!), and I will definitely use my 24-70mm f/2.8 for my next match. I'll have my other lens with me, but will start with the 24-70. I know what you mean about the flicker in the lights. Manual should avoid that issue, right?

I love your point about capturing the emotion, and I couldn't agree more. I do have a couple of shots like that, but staying on the server to see her reaction to a possible ace, is a great idea. Or, focusing on the bench to capture their reactions. I also like/understand your advice on shooting up, or down on the court. One good thing about the seating at these matches, is the team is sitting opposite of the fans bleachers.

You've really given me much to think about for my next match, and I really appreciate the advice. Thank you, very much!!
Patty

PattyW60 Loc: Northwest Illinois

Thanks for your tips, Charlie!! I don't believe I have "flicker reduction" activated in camera, so I'll check on that. I guess I figured I could do that in post, but maybe that's not a wise decision on my part. I can bump up to 6400 ISO pretty well, so I'm not as afraid of it as I am on my 7d markii. I will definitely try my 24-70mm the next time!

Thanks again, Charlie!
Patty

PattyW60 Loc: Northwest Illinois

Thank you, Tom! I like your coffee filters!! ;) I don't have a 50mm lens, so I'll have to use the other two lenses you recommended. Lighting is definitely tricky. Thanks for sharing your tips! I look forward to trying some of these tips at my next match. I learn best by doing! practice, practice, practice!!

Patty

PattyW60 Loc: Northwest Illinois

More great advice! Thank you, Jaackil!!

Toby

A lot of good advice here so I will only offer a bit. Manual or App priority at f 2,8, 1/500 or higher speed and floating ISO. Spot focus on your target, no one wants pics of other team members just waiting for a hit. The gym I shoot in usually only has the stands pulled out on one side so I go to the other side and walk behind the bench and scorers table.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

"... I came in late..." That is a major mistake... go early in order to scout the venue... even on another day if possible. Be certain you are aware of background distractions... Know and respect the limitations of your kit... Yes flicker reduction is to be cherished...

Ok, your lens is way too slow... move up to an 85mm f/1.4 at a minimum... believe Canon makes a fabulous 85mm f/1.2 https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1444499-REG/canon_ef_85mm_f_1_2l_ii.html

It's a sweet deal for only a tad less than $2K

While I don't shoot Canon, I have colleague who do... that very fast 85mm f/1.2 is superb for subject isolation. And unlike the 70-200mm it is considerable lighter at 1025 g

Patty you have an excellent eye for visual aesthetics.... now it is just a matter of becoming one with your kit and the challenges latent in shooting indoor sports... btw, IS is pretty much useless for sports where subject motion dominates the image equation... to this end 1/1000 or higher is germane... thus the compelling reason for a f/1.2 lens.

Ok, while I don't shoot indoor sports, I do however shoot indoor events commercially... my 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.4 Nikkors on a full frame D3 & D810 pay the bills... enough said

Hope this helps...
All the best on your journey Patty

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

Hi Patty:
I am a little late in this topic of discussion for shooting volleyball. All the info provided here is spot on.
My advice is shoot tight, anticipate where the ball is going, from the serve to the set-up. I shoot manual, usually around 1/800 at wide open, always wide open we need the extra light. Iso up to 6400, after that I go home. Do not crop much, the more you sharpen and crop the worst the image for quality. Try to get it right in the camera.
Your shots are good and you will get better with practice. Before the game get your settings right, look at your lcd at 100% to check on them.
Good luck,
Jules

david vt Loc: Vermont

Hi. Overall, pretty good start. the blockers in shot 1 and server in #4 are nicely composed.

I shoot quite a bit of indoor HS BB, and the challenges are the same in terms of lighting (“all” school gyms are bad) and angle. My best shots were mostly from either standing level with the players or from the back of the stands. For the level shots, I would ask permission of the coaches and refs to stand opposite the grandstands so I was not blocking other spectators. I also would go up the stands, either to the back to one end, and stand while shooting. This game me an unobstructed view, and I liked shooting down slightly as it made it easier to capture faces. As suggested, try different spots in different games and see what you like. Even go to a game on another night in the same venue, where your daughter is not playing, so you can just concentrate on dialing in what you want/like.

for settings, I think you might be 1-2 stops low in SS, based on the ball blur, but also I am seeing slight blur in the hands. I would speed up until you can freeze the hands. In general, I use any one of 3 lens, depending on how far away I could get, at 2.8 or 3.2 to isolate the player and action from the background. If I was sideline, I have a 50-150 f2.8 has it allowed me to fill the frame from close to medium distances. Note this is right in the sweet spot that Thomas indicated. If I was further back or high in the stands, the 70-200, generally at the long end of the range worked from that far back. As I learned from Jules, shoot tight and fill the frame so you don’t have to crop. As you will need to let your ISO float, which can add noise in this environment, we don’t need to compound that with excessive cropping.

I should note these are both on a DX body.

focus. I generally use spot focus with BBF, but it is tricky. I know Jules and others use more small group (like D9), especially in group shots. The tricky part of spot with more than 1 player is that if not careful you can frame and “shoot through the gap” between them, and then all is blurry. Not good. You might want to try both and see which results in more keepers for you.

Try some things (especially during warm-ups), have some fun, and you will quickly zero into what you like.