I have one shot to get this picture right. Need advice!
Aug 24, 2019 11:37:00 #
nadelewitz
Loc: Ithaca NY
Can you get access at a non-race time to experiment? This is a pretty hefty assignment to tackle with no preparation.
Aug 24, 2019 12:13:39 #
nadelewitz wrote:
Can you get access at a non-race time to experiment? This is a pretty hefty assignment to tackle with no preparation.
If he is in front of the fence, there'll be no cars running competively on the track
Aug 24, 2019 12:59:50 #
late_show wrote:
I am getting a one-time, probably 10-minute access... (show quote)
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Allow for 1/3 to 1/2 overlap of each frame for the best stitching. Shoot in manual and use the same settings for all shots. I've always heard as a general rule to focus about 1/3 of the way into the scene to get maximum depth of field. You can also use an app to calculate the hyperfocal distance by plugging in your lens and distance information.
Aug 24, 2019 15:29:04 #
catchlight..
Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway
late_show wrote:
I am getting a one-time, probably 10-minute access... (show quote)
Here is something to help get the best image possible...
https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/eliminate-parallax
Aug 24, 2019 15:52:14 #
mikegreenwald
Loc: Illinois
hammond wrote:
Perhaps consider renting a wide-angle lens for the day.
You can then focus on just getting one good shot that you can then crop down to panoramic.
You can then focus on just getting one good shot that you can then crop down to panoramic.
Although alluded to, no-one said use "Manual" mode exclusively for pano's. Use MANUAL only!
Overlaps greater than 25% are unnecessary. Your questions suggest absence of experience with panos, so I'd certainly do several until you're totally comfortable that you can create excellence without undue fuss and time loss.
I've always been happiest with portrait mode camera position and a good sharp lens at or near 50mm on a full frame camera. Absolutely avoid filters, particularly polarizers. Level the tripod carefully so the camera remains level throughout the rotations. Ball head tripods make the task more difficult, though still doable.
Bracket by shooting the entire pano at one EV in manual mode, then repeat the pano at two stops over and again at two stops under. Do it again and again - choose the best later.
I don't like super wide lenses unless needed for action shots. Much better detail comes from pano with a high quality normal focal length lens.
Aug 24, 2019 19:29:50 #
late_show wrote:
Wow! This was a lot of great advice! Thank you!
I have heard that 25% overlap is the goal. Will more overlap make the auto-stitching better?
Since I am taking an enormous range of scenery, where is the best place to take my light readings? Where on the spectrum of the darkest part of the scene and the lightest part of the scene would be my best bet?
Thank you again SOOO much! I am very grateful for all of the help!
I have heard that 25% overlap is the goal. Will more overlap make the auto-stitching better?
Since I am taking an enormous range of scenery, where is the best place to take my light readings? Where on the spectrum of the darkest part of the scene and the lightest part of the scene would be my best bet?
Thank you again SOOO much! I am very grateful for all of the help!
Yes, a > % of overlap will make stitching easier.
Aug 24, 2019 19:57:07 #
rehess wrote:
If he is in front of the fence, there'll be no cars running competively on the track
Man, I hope not! I'm not that fast! Barring a winning lottery ticket, this is probably a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. My preparation has been taking pictures in the field behind my house.
Aug 24, 2019 20:09:17 #
missiletracker
Loc: Paupack Pa
If you have objects in close foreground, make sure you use a nodal slide or stitching will be difficult. I would take at least 2, maybe 3 photos each spot and set the focus point different on each so you can focus stack and get all in focus in post process, then do a photo merge to stitch together the separate focus stacked images.
Aug 26, 2019 19:50:51 #
Don’t use a timer—use a cable release—I would probably use a couple test shots and then go to manual, auto ISO, at about r11–but do your best to take some test shots
Stan
Stan
Aug 27, 2019 00:59:04 #
missiletracker wrote:
The way the track is built, if he is against the outer wall, foreground is one problem he won't have; that track is wider than we often think it is.If you have objects in close foreground, make sure you use a nodal slide or stitching will be difficult. I would take at least 2, maybe 3 photos each spot and set the focus point different on each so you can focus stack and get all in focus in post process, then do a photo merge to stitch together the separate focus stacked images.
Aug 27, 2019 05:38:09 #
60 foot wide turns with a 9.2-degree incline! I should have nothing close, other than asphalt.
Aug 27, 2019 07:56:48 #
late_show wrote:
I am getting a one-time, probably 10-minute access... (show quote)
I would rent a Nikon 14-24 lens. You can perfectly frame the shot, and crop out the excess top and bottom. I have done it both ways, with that lens, and with multi shots. I think the clarity of that lens will be better than any other way to do it, and it resolves the issues of stitching, etc.
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