Jaackil Loc: Massachusetts

Hi Vicky
If I can simplify and add to some of the explanations. The reason the Sunny 16 rule works is even though we don’t perceive it as so the moon is very bright. So even though when you are shooting it you are in relative darkness the object you are shooting is very bright. You can use a low iso usually below 400. Because the moon is so far away depth of feild is not a big concern so you can go to where your lens sweet spot is and that is usually f8-f11 or wider. Because the moon is moving you should shoot at 125 or faster for shutter speed. My best moon shots have been at iso 200 f8 and 125.
The below shots were shot with my D7200 and a 70-300 kit lens at 300mm. The night shot was 1/100 F8 iso 100 on a tripod. The day shot was hand held at 1/640 f6.3 iso 160. I apologize if the images don’t look great but they are not the original files but downloaded from my phone so there may be some compression. The other tip I will give you is shooting a full moon is very hard because there is just so much light. You will get better results and more definition shooting a less than full moon

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LarryFB Loc: Depends where our RV is parked

I see a lot of good suggestions. The best one is to use the Sunny 16 rule (shutter speed 1/ISO and f/16). However, a slightly better rule might be the Luny 11 rule (shutter speed 1/ISO and f/11).

These are old "Rules of Thumb" and date back well before digital cameras, but they work! Notice that the two rules differ by only 1 exposure value. Of course with a digital camera, set the camera, take the photo, chimp (review the photo on the camera LCD) and then adjust the exposure as needed.

If you don't use a tripod, use a shutter speed of 1/lens focal length in mm, and adjust the aperture as needed to have the same exposure value as given to one of the two rules above.

Trying to use the camera light meter to determine the exposure in this case just won't work. Also, shooting a full moon will not show many of the details because of the flat lighting, shooting something less that a full moon (3/4 moon, half moon, etc.) will show shadows on the moon and provide more emphasis on the moon's features.

I am always surprised that many experienced photographers have never heard of the two rules I mention. They have been around for probably a century or more and they still work!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

If you are able to fill enough of a screen area to get a reasonable spot metering result, without interpretation and exposure adjustment the moon will be gray.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Post a sample image.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

That's where bracketing comes in handy.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Or, rather than guessing with bracketing, a familiarity with the Zone System.

Either way, I think the histogram and turning on the highlight warning do the trick better than either bracketing or Zone System.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Using the "Quote Reply" option, as I have done here, will help us know which post you are addressing.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Yup, whatever floats your boat.

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Vickey;

As others have said, you expose the moon like you do daylight since it is reflected Sunlight.

The “looney 11 rule” states that for astronomical photos of the Moon’s surface, set aperture to f/11 and shutter speed to the (reciprocal of the) ISO setting.

With ISO 100, set the aperture to f/11 and the shutter speed to 1/100 or 1/125 second.
With ISO 200, aperture at f/11, set the shutter speed to 1/200 or 1/250.
With ISO 400, aperture at f/11, set the shutter speed to 1/400 or 1/500.

A stable tripod is a must, as well as a remote release or your camera on a timed delay. You are shooting through a lot of atmosphere, and blurr is a real issue.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Basic moon exposure is 1/iso at f16. So, example, is your ISO is 500, then you basic exposure is 1/500 sec. at f16. If your ISO is 200, then your base exposure is 1/200 sec. at f16, and so on, and so on. This is your BASE exposure, you can stop down or open up depending on the results of your first shot.
Lots of folks also like to use manual focus and a tripod, but that is up to you.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.

John Sh Loc: Toronto, Australia

The settings OB1 suggested are spot on. I use 1/250 sec at ISO 100, the result will be the same. At 1/250 you can hand hold. The best time to shoot is when the moon is NOT full. You will not see the craters on a full moon.

John Sh Loc: Toronto, Australia

The settings OB1 suggested are spot on. I use 1/250 sec f/8 and ISO 100, the result will be the same. At 1/250 you can hand hold. The best time to shoot is when the moon is NOT full. You will not see the craters on a full moon.

Ed Walker Loc: Eclectic, Alabama U.S.A.

Remember, also, that the beautiful haze you like around the moon is moisture in the atmosphere which will hinder getting really sharp detailed photos.

ziggy_nc

Hello Vicky,

Take a look at https://photographylife.com/landscapes/how-to-photograph-moon, the website has great suggestion. Also https://photographylife.com is link to mark and check daily. Photography Life have some great articles and suggestions.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

What settings are you using? Shutter speed, aperture, ISO, metering etc... Are you shooting in manual, shutter priority, aperture priority or in a program mode?
Could you post an sample of a shot you do not like? Use "store original" when you do.