Chaxl

Tomorrow I have a shoot indoors with 25 clients. Some might be sensitive to flash, so I'm hoping I can avoid using it. I plan to take a white backdrop, a blue one and a black. I use a high-end point and shoot. Since indoors, do I crank up my ISO and lower my aperture? If so, what numbers do you recommend? I heard iSO 800 is pretty good but in order to minimize the noise, my aperture should be on the lower end. I usually shoot in Program mode, which I know it's auto's twin, but I'm use to that mode.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

Frankly, it is rather late to be asking questions like this. You should already have personal experience with the camera at various ISO levels and apertures

Chaxl

Everyone learns differently. I didn't ask to be shamed upon. If you can't be respectful of my lack of every technique, ignore my posts. I come here to learn from others as I know I'm far from perfect. You also don't know my situation.

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

I would shoot at a high ISO (1600?) and with the lens wide open. Make sure you do not have any unwanted subject or camera movement.
If the light levels are very low you may have to raise your ISO even higher and do some noise reduction when post processing. Shoot raw to give you more flexibility when post processing.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

Are just using the normal room lighting? If it's overhead lights it may not bee too flattering. Maybe window lighting with a reflector fill might work. I would use bounce flash myself. I don't think people would be too sensitive to flash if it were bounced. The quality of the lighting is very important with portraits.

Chaxl

Hey thanks for the comment. I actually use a powerchair with a custom made camera tripod that attaches to it. Thanks

Chaxl

There will be a window near by

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

My comments have nothing to do with shaming you - they were in the hope that in the future you will try new things in advance, then ask questions based on what you experience. I hope someone with actual SX-50 experience posts in this thread.

Haydon

An SX-50 in low light without flash will be a difficult task. The sensor thrives in good light with diminishing returns as the light decreases. I've owned a SX-50 for several years and know what it's capable of in good light and what exponentially happens as lighting conditions become difficult. In low light at higher ISO, will be lacking although image quality is subjective. I still use it today but I understand the limitations presented with that tiny sensor. It's one ability to shoot in RAW may sound promising but the files quickly fall apart if you push levels in post. You will need to use flash to be happy with results.

No one can give you exact settings as light conditions vary upon the venue. Shooting past ISO 400 in bad light will be arduous. If you have a speed light, bounce the light to create shadow and depth. The on-board flash will be troublesome and create specular highlights that are undesirable.

I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Testing it's limitation prior to the engagement would have given you a better assessment of your task. Good luck and wishes to your challenge.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Clients....Hmmm.
You’re getting paid?
Have you given any consideration to quality and direction of light?
It’s more important than the camera!
That being said (and it’s really too late) if you have no other way to light them, I’d definitely use some reflectors ...white foam board...to modify what’s probably going to be a bad lighting set up.
I’m guessing overhead lighting?
A simple Portrait Lighting set up is usually done with a larger source (an umbrella or soft box) a bit off to the side so you can get some soft, directional lighting on the face and a reflector to fill in the shadows somewhat by that light.
Without knowing the location situation, I’d be tempted to incorporate the window in the room.

Here is a site with some simple setups.
Three use window light.
https://digital-photography-school.com/6-portrait-lighting-patterns-every-photographer-should-know/




Good luck...

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

The SX50 may have been a "high end" bridge camera in 2012, but not at all by today's standards. I would not shoot at ISO 800. Even 400 would be a stretch. If you shoot raw you may have a little more flexibility, but how your clients will use the results will determine if the camera is up to the task. A lot depends on how you set up your lighting, and if you can get your ISO down to 200.

It is not possible to predict what camera settings to recommend without knowing the layout. The best way to deal with this would be to bring continuous lighting and whatever bounce material you need to be able to make the most flattering light for your subjects. Photographic LED lights will give you the illumination levels you need, and flexibility in placement, so that you have a chance of success. The other issue you will have is the mix of lighting colors if you allow ambient light to enter in to your setup. If you use a shutter speed faster than 1/125 sec and are relying on existing ambient light, then there is the issue of cycling if the ambient is fluorescent, halogen, or some other lighting that cycles. If you don't own what you need, rent it. Charge the cost of the rental to the client(s).

I wish you the best of luck. But next time I would most certainly not wait until the last minute to get advice. That is surely a recipe for disaster.

Vietnam Vet

Set your background paper so the center of the background is about ten feet from the window, and so that it is lit from the side. Then pose your subjects so they are facing the window and you will have a flattering main light with a lit background. You will have the light so that the subject is casting no shadow on the paper. Use the lowest ISO you can to avoid noise.

74images Loc: Los Angeles, California

I have a SX-50 also I Bought in February 2014, it has Done Good for me the Last 5 & a Half Years, & I Take your Post Seriously, cause would like to Explore More Further with my SX-50

Not like that Jerk from South Bend, Indiana who put you Down & Questioned your Post, these Jerks are a Dime A Dozen! & I have been Slammed by Jerks on this Site Also.

Take it in Stride Fella.

74images

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

Instead of name-calling, why didn’t you provide some real information? What is the highest ISO you find to be usable for that kind of work with that camera? What is the largest F-stop that works well with that built-in lens? You should know that kind of thing - you take the OP seriously by providing the needed information.

Donkas1946 Loc: Southern NH

If you can’t help or don’t want to why waste your and everyone else’s time. I wish the admin would just delete these useless comments.