aam421

This subject has been discussed several times over the years and I have reviewed and tried to follow all the advice but I am still not doing something right. I don't own an expensive camera; I have Nikon S1 that takes good photos. Last night I tried taking some photos of the Perseid showers even with a bright full moon. I had the ISO at 6400 and F5, shutter speed set to S which might be 'bulb'. All I got was black sky and one little illuminated dot.

What am I doing wrong. I'm too embarrassed to attach a photo with a dot.

I sure enjoy the exchange of opinions from the members.

fergmark Loc: norwalk connecticut

The only way anyone can really help you is to attach a photo with the download so that they can look at the camera data. Without, there will only be a lot of guessing. There is no shame in learning.

aschweik Loc: NE Ohio

I am also confused about night sky photography so you aren't the only one. We all have to learn somehow and posting helps, even if you're embarrassed by it. Sometime you can post your before and after shots and show us how much you've learned. I'll keep watch on the answers you get so I can learn, too. Thanks for posting!

uhaas2009

The moon falls under the sunny rule. The “showers” I believe falls under the 500er rule. The milky-way can be photographed with the 500er rule......

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Are you sure that the "S" refers to shutter speed? If it refers to shutter release mode it may refer to "single" as opposed to continuous shutter release. Posting a downloadable example (check the "Store original" box) will help determine if the exposure settings were OK.

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

You need to tell us what lens you used. Most star photos are shot with F-2.8 or faster. Shutter speeds from 10sec or longer . ISO of 2000 or higher. On most cameras, selecting "S" only switches you to shutter priority. That means that you still have to select the shutter speed via a dial or buttons. Don't forget to prefocus in manual focus to infinity and tape it in place. Manual focus is not the same setting the camera to manual which forces you to set the ISO, Shutter Speed, and F-stop. Manual focus is set at the lens or through the cameras menu. The exception is if you use a manual lens such as an older film lens or one of the newer "manual" lenses by Samyang and others. In this photo, Andromida is at the 1 o'clock position and a shooting star streak is below it and to the right. In a DSLR you also need to lock the mirror up. This can usualy be done by going into live view if your camera has it. I hope this helps. Good luck

ISO 20000, 30sec, Samyang 14mm, f-2.8 Sony a7iii

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

Are you aware there is an Astrological Photography forum section on UHH? https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-109-1.html

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Some tips -
http://www.techradar.com/us/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/how-to-see-the-perseid-meteor-shower-this-week-1301477
http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2010/08/how-to-photographing-perseid-meteor-shower
http://www.skyandtelescope.com/astronomy-blogs/capturing-the-perseids-how-to-photograph-a-meteor-shower/
https://petapixel.com/2014/05/22/10-tips-photographing-meteor-showers/

aam421

The lens I was using is made for my camera. 1NIKKOR 30-110. As you can see the moon picture is also just another illuminated dot.

This is really embarrassing! Unfortunately I don't see any settings information. These are JPG instead of RAW. I had the shutter speed all the way up to +3.0, the IOS up to 6400 and F5.

jhkfly

The bottom pic is way overexposed! +3.0 is not shutter speed, it's an increase in the exposure value already set in the camera.

The top pic, I presume, is one you took with the zoom at 30mm wide angle; that might explain why the moon appears as a dot.

tommyII Loc: Northern Illinois

Nice picture.

ralfstinson Loc: SF Bay Area

Celestial Photography is special photography, and the automated features on your camera will probably not work. You should make all the camera settings as manual as possible (focus, ISO, speed, F/stop, etc). While the moon is a special case for celestial photography as it is directly illuminated by the sun, manual focus on infinity and put ISO/F-stop/speed at a setting for a normal picture on a bright sunny day. Then go from there. You won't get stars and any foreground item will be black unless you use a flash.

For stars, aurora and meteors, you will be doing low light photography and avoid the moon! Learn to use your camera in manual. Learn to use the camera in the dark and use a red head lamp. Keep your night vision good.

For meteors, I have been successful with wide angle lens, 25 sec, ISO 4000 and f/2.8. Then I tell my camera to take a picture every 30 second for the next 600 pictures and I go to sleep. For star trails, I have used 1300 seconds, ISO 200 and F/6.3. For stars w/out trails, there are rules to go with, so use a fast lens, short time (depending on lens focal lengthen), fast F/stop and push up the ISO so the speed will be fast enough to 'stop' the stars and get a good exposure.

If possible, set the camera monitor on low light level to keep your night vision. (don't forget to reset it for daytime)

aam421

OK, many thanks for your responses. I do have a manual and have studied it several times but I need to do some manual rewriting as I discover where some of these features are located in the camera. I like the red light use and I do have a head lamp with a red light. I also like the daylight exposure suggestion.

AirWalter Loc: Tipp City, Ohio

A great web site for this is at www.photopills.com. They have a ton of info.

AirWalter Loc: Tipp City, Ohio

A great web site for this is at www.photopills.com. They have a ton of info.