Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

...all comments and suggestions are welcomed.

I'm currently enrolled in this course.

Instructor wants us to set camera as follows:
f16, ISO 100 and have the best exposure for shutter speed. Must be on a tripod.

Thanks.

For more dramatic photos, click on this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIndrXXqrDY

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CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Your results look great, for what can been seen. Your decision for such low resolution images makes it difficult to see the details, even when storing the attachment. The Photo Gallery would be a better place to post these items as well as sizing to 2048-pixels on the long-side of the image. You might too ask your instructor to discuss "diffraction" when working at small apertures such as f/16. A 2nd question to the instructor relates to the potential of small apertures to expose sensor dust issues which appear in the sky of a few of these examples. Look at leveling your horizons, especially the first image with a waterline.

Abo

Not bad!

User ID

Diffraction is not a major problem. It happens, but is
seldom visible to non-peepers. I'm guessing that f/16
was recommended to cover modest focusing errors by
users who are not really familiar with working in very
dark conditions. Still, I'd agree that f/16 may be too
small, if only cuz it wastes a lotta light in conditions
where light is scarce ! I notice that most of my dark
conditions images are between f/3.2 and f/7 ... and I
never drop the ISO down anywhere near 100, usually
staying in the 4-digit range. f/16 at ISO 100 ? Even
on a tripod that does not appeal to me.

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Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

Thanks for you comments and suggestions, CHG_CANON. Instructor did point out the sensor dust and suggest I "clean" it. I know should have done it before the practice session. I did go to YouTube for a couple of program on sensor cleaning. Did some practice shooting on white objects and I think did OK. I sure will ask him about "diffraction" with small apertures.

Again, appreciate your comments.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

REF: Sensor dust, look at this series of actions:

1. Assure your camera's self-cleaning function is active.
2. Look at a Giotto Rocket blower. See this example of results with just a Rocket-Air: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-551677-1.html
3. Look at more powerful editing software. The one image I checked reports "Windows Photo Editor". You can clone-away the dust in 1-click per spot with most commercial tools.
4. Look at wet cleaning tools to do it yourself.
5. And finally, find a camera shop option to have someone do a wet cleaning for you. Check their results before leaving the premises and have them do it again, if not good enough.

After cleaning, be sure to keep the self-cleaning option active in your camera and assure you're changing lenses in clean environments outside of wind and assure you have a bodycap or lens always on the body except for the shortest moment of time needed to change lenses.

Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

Thanks again for the link and the tips. Very much appreciated.

I will sure get one of them Giotto Rocket air blower. Almost all 5 stars in reviews.

Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

Thanks for your input. Your photos look fantastic.

As for the aperture, one reason instructor suggested f16 is, to get the starburst effect which were evident in some of the photos I took. I for one was fascinated by this effect.

As for the ISO at 100, he emphasized that with this value (or lower), you get less grain or "noise" on photos. I also heard the same thing in some of I would consider, "reliable" YouTube programs I watched regarding ISO. The higher the ISO, the grainer the picture is.

The need for a tripod is a no brainer in this situation.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You might bring a 3rd question to the instructor: ISO invariant cameras, with your D7200 being one. Does the specific equipment being used provide alternative considerations to approaching low-light photography?

Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

Got it! I'm making a list of your suggestions.

Thanks again, CHG_CANON. Really appreciated.

Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

Thanks, Abo for a vote of confidence.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

And after you finish this assignment, take chgcannon’s advice and research the effects of diffraction at small apertures. Take a look at this acuity chart of a typical lens and notice the decrease in sharpness at f16.

J-SPEIGHT Loc: Akron, Ohio

Nice set.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

These are my comments based on my opinion. They are not necessarily right to everyone but they represent my opinion based on my humble experience.

Although I could shoot a couple of shots at f16 during night shooting I am not usually at that lens opening for this type of photography. Modern cameras are doing exceedingly well handling noise at high ISO and just in case there are excellent noise reducing software available that do a great job and Topaz DeNoise AI comes to mind. Cleaning the sensor is something that we have to do periodically EXCEPT with Olympus bodies. I do not remember EVER seen dust specks in my images because any of my Olympus bodies had dust in the sensor. That speaks highly of their sensor cleaning feature which I have not experienced with ANY of my Nikon cameras.

The star burst effect could look beautiful in a couple of shots during a night shooting session but I surely do not want the same effect in all of my images because it becomes a cliche. The same goes for those waterfalls with long exposure times. My tendency is too shoot one with the long effect and the other at a much higher shutter speed and I usually stick to the the one with a faster shutter speed.

Exposure in a majority of the cases cannot be successfully accomplished obviously because there is not enough light. I do not know how your instructor went about it but I tend to use ISO 200 and at f8, I start at 2 secs. and watch the image in the rear monitor. If it seems as a satisfactory image I could shoot some other frames at 1 sec and 4 sec. for a variety of exposures from which I will select one based on my taste. I ALWAYS shoot with a lens shade although front lighting can still cause problems with glare. No filters.

Low light, night photography could be very rewarding depending on subject. Even when there is plenty of light all those dark areas tend to confuse the exposure meter and it is not uncommon to vary the exposure by a couple of stops for the correct exposure. Many times I
DO NOT do that for less noisy effect.

I looked at your images and the video and you did a very good job.

Sunnely Loc: Wisconsin

Thanks Trix for the diagram. It looks like bell shape with the "sweet spot" between 2.5 to 9.5.

I'll keep that in mind. Better yet, print it or the whole thread and put it in a folder for quick reference.

Really appreciate your comment/suggestion.