Warning
Jul 30, 2019 13:22:54 #
wnagel
Loc: Fair Oaks, CA
When using a Nikon D750 with the kit lens at 24-28mm indoors with built in flash do not keep the lens shade on. Creates shadows. I should have known, but forgot.
Jul 30, 2019 13:37:40 #
Built-in flash may not work well with 24 or 28mm.
Typically working better with over 35mm.
Typically working better with over 35mm.
Jul 30, 2019 14:49:58 #
Longshadow wrote:
Built-in flash may not work well with 24 or 28mm.
Typically working better with over 35mm.
Typically working better with over 35mm.
Yes, with any camera that is a "crap shoot".
Honestly, any OnBoard Flash is a weak option.
Jul 30, 2019 14:50:00 #
Jul 30, 2019 16:14:19 #
Actually, if you use an upright flash on the hot shoe there is usually enough height gained to shoot over the end of the lens to eliminate shadows. Try it.
Jul 30, 2019 18:02:13 #
Retired CPO wrote:
Actually, if you use an upright flash on the hot shoe there is usually enough height gained to shoot over the end of the lens to eliminate shadows. Try it.
Jul 30, 2019 18:25:04 #
wnagel wrote:
When using a Nikon D750 with the kit lens at 24-28mm indoors with built in flash do not keep the lens shade on. Creates shadows. I should have known, but forgot.
You think that's bad, try it with the 14-24 lens.
On second thought, it's worth getting a speedlight.
For one thing, if you get the light source away from the centerline of the lens, you will reduce redeye significantly.
Jul 30, 2019 18:41:56 #
wnagel
Loc: Fair Oaks, CA
You are correct. I have external flashes and all the brackets (GAS factor). Was too lazy to carry them. Will do better next time
Jul 31, 2019 06:59:30 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
wnagel wrote:
When using a Nikon D750 with the kit lens at 24-28mm indoors with built in flash do not keep the lens shade on. Creates shadows. I should have known, but forgot.
I always use my trusty Nikon SB-900 with the flash head pointed up and behind me, never misses.
Jul 31, 2019 07:05:50 #
Jul 31, 2019 09:12:21 #
Flash Falasca wrote:
someone makes a 24-28mm ?
The OP mentioned a "Kit lens" without specifying the focal range. I suspect that the interference he observed only occurred between the 24 and 28mm setting on that lens.
Jul 31, 2019 09:35:46 #
Sad, but true. That's where the Review feature - on the LCD - comes in handy.
Jul 31, 2019 11:35:17 #
nadelewitz
Loc: Ithaca NY
wnagel wrote:
When using a Nikon D750 with the kit lens at 24-28mm indoors with built in flash do not keep the lens shade on. Creates shadows. I should have known, but forgot.
Doesn't matter the camera or what specific lens you use. It is entirely a function of the physical length of the lens, hooded or not.
The built-in flash is too close to the lens to avoid shadows if taking closeups. Using a tall external flash or macro flash units that mount on the front of the lens will eliminate shadows cast by the lens.
Jul 31, 2019 12:17:54 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
Built in flashes suck.
1. They're in the worst possible place to cause redeye or make for ugly shadows (even without a lens hood problem).
2. They are generally wimpy and under-powered....
3. ...yet are slow to recycle AND...
4... a heavy drain on the camera's batteries.
Get an accessory flash... all those problems are solved! Especially if you get a flash bracket and an off-camera shoe cord to be able to position it higher up and off to one side a bit... you'll have less redeye and better shadow effects. You can even further improve it by adding a diffuser and/or using a bounce technique with many accessory flashes. Most are many times more powerful than the built-in flashes, too. And they recycle a lot faster. Plus they have their own power supply, so don't drain the camera batteries.
NOTE: Using a bounce technique typically wastes a lot of light, makes the flash fire more fully, causing it to recycle more slowly and introduces a bunch of variables such as the color of the bounce surface and it's distance from the flash and subjects. If at all possible, direct flash is much more efficient, consistent and reliable... in most cases. If the look of direct flash is not to your liking, try using a diffuser or some other type of light modifier instead of bouncing.
Problems solved!
1. They're in the worst possible place to cause redeye or make for ugly shadows (even without a lens hood problem).
2. They are generally wimpy and under-powered....
3. ...yet are slow to recycle AND...
4... a heavy drain on the camera's batteries.
Get an accessory flash... all those problems are solved! Especially if you get a flash bracket and an off-camera shoe cord to be able to position it higher up and off to one side a bit... you'll have less redeye and better shadow effects. You can even further improve it by adding a diffuser and/or using a bounce technique with many accessory flashes. Most are many times more powerful than the built-in flashes, too. And they recycle a lot faster. Plus they have their own power supply, so don't drain the camera batteries.
NOTE: Using a bounce technique typically wastes a lot of light, makes the flash fire more fully, causing it to recycle more slowly and introduces a bunch of variables such as the color of the bounce surface and it's distance from the flash and subjects. If at all possible, direct flash is much more efficient, consistent and reliable... in most cases. If the look of direct flash is not to your liking, try using a diffuser or some other type of light modifier instead of bouncing.
Problems solved!
Jul 31, 2019 16:13:26 #
AirWalter
Loc: Tipp City, Ohio
wnagel wrote:
When using a Nikon D750 with the kit lens at 24-28mm indoors with built in flash do not keep the lens shade on. Creates shadows. I should have known, but forgot.
Yep, mine too.
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