Bendmac Loc: Bend, Oregon

Please pardon the noob question...I'm a relative novice to photography, but am practicing a lot and I can see improvement in my photos as time has gone by. Currently shooting a Nikon D3300 with the 18-55mm and 55-200 kit lens, also have a Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 as well.

That said, I know there are some limitations due to the camera and the lenses, but I figure if I learn my lessons well on this basic equipment, when I move up to something else, I'll have some of the "primary bases" already covered.

I switched to back button focusing recently, and after a bit of a learning curve, I like it much better than half press / full press on the shutter release. I'm also using LiveView a lot more than the viewfinder, where I'd normally be using the paltry 11 focus points on the D3300.

Photo stacking...I get the overall concept and the process of how to combine those images in Photoshop. The questions I have are in the set-up for actually TAKING the multiple photographs. Lots of vids on Youtube, etc. but none of them really address the "nuts and bolts" of what I'm about the ask.

So we'll say I'm on a tripod, VR is off and using a wired remote release to try and cut down on any camera movement. I'm shooting Aperture Priority, have framed the picture I want to take and I'm in LiveView.

*So is it just a (simple) matter of moving the "focus square" displayed in LiveView around the screen (red box, which turns green when in focus)?

*I'm assuming (dangerous, I know) that I would want to move focus from the back of the camera (closet focal point) and then on various points left/right/forward out to the far edge of the framed image?

*Any suggestion on how many shots should be taken? I know it will vary on many factors including the overall scene itself (open field with a mountain range in the background vs. a waterfall through the trees, etc.) but just looking for some general guidelines.

If that's the overall process, I think I get it...but my attempt at an explanation seems pretty simple, so seeking wisdom from the more experienced among ye...

Cheers!

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

You might want to post this in the Panorama section: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-128-1.html

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

This is not a panorama, but a focus stack question.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

The point of doing focus stacking for landscape is to extend the depth of field - I think you've got a pretty good handle on that.

I would use manual exposure, and manual focus, and if you are comfortable with live view, use that. You want nothing to change automatically. It helps to use a DoF application on your smartphone to find out what your depth of field is at different distances.

Using your 35mm lens' sharpest aperture, which is often F8 check the hyperfocal distance. It is 25.2 ft. This means that if you focus to 25.2 ft, everything from 12.1 ft to infinity will be within the range of "acceptable" sharpness. In many cases you want better than that.

So you look at your scene, and determine that there are some flowers in the foreground that you want sharp, and they are 5 ft away.

So you focus at 5 ft, either by using your method of moving the focus square or just estimating, and judging focus by what you see to be sharp. At 5 ft and F8, your DoF is from 4.19 to 6.21 ft. If you simply advance your focus a little to around 6.5 ft, you'll get 5.18 ft to 8.72 ft total DoF.

If you get the near focus DoF of the next focus target close to the actual previous focus distance - in this case your previous focus distance was 5 ft, and the next focus distance of 6.5 ft has "acceptable" sharpness starting at 5.18 ft,there should be enough overlap. Following this logic, your next focus point might be 8.5 ft, which provides 6.37 ft to 12.8 ft, then 13 ft for a DoF of 8.59 ft to 18.1 ft, 25 ft for DoF of 12.6 ft to 2686 ft, and finally a shot at infinity. This should work for a good focus stack.

You'd want to take more smaller focus steps at the closer distances, and make sure there is enough "DoF overlap" to avoid focus gaps.

In the field I am far less methodical. I just take a bunch of exposures advancing the focus ring "by feel" and the images come out fine.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Oops! I wasn’t thinking of focus stacking. Thanks for the correction.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

No problem. I thought that might have been what happened. Though it is possible to do focus stacked panos. But only if you are incredibly organized.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Somehow the price of a T/S lens doesn’t seem too high!

Cany143 Loc: SE Utah

For someone claiming to be a novice, you have a remarkably good grasp of focus stacking.

I focus stack landscapes fairly commonly. Its challenging; perhaps moreso than stacking in more controlled circumstances. The slightest breeze will cause movement in some foreground element which, however sharp and focused that element may be, that element's displacement will be recorded in succeeding frames, making masking and blending in post a much more laborious task. Despite this, the rewards can be amazing.

You can, as you put it, 'move the focus square around' to gain focus, but doing so should only place focus further and further away from you, not 'out to the far edge of the framed image' (assuming some 'far edge' isn't the only place that the furthest distance --infinity?-- is located). As has been mentioned, the aperture you choose will determine the dof in individual frames, but I'd have to disagree with the thought of checking with a chart or app to calculate the specific range of focus in individual shots. Unless you're shooting 100% static, unmoving targets, speed is absolutely necessary --again, the 'breeze factor'-- and placing focus points and reading charts takes more time than nature sometimes allows.

I routinely use from 3 to 5 images in a landscape stack; more often than not that's sufficient, though it is dependent on how near you are to the closest element in the shot. Manual exposure with constant aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Manual focus, as well, though I do use the 'green dot' focus confirmation in my Nikons (or the colored highlight focus confirmation in my focus peaking Fujis). I'll focus and check and mentally note where focus should be two or three times before making my first exposure; that way I can work rapidly and decrease the possibility of movement in both near and far elements.

Lately, I've come to using a focusing rail rather than simply shifting near/far focus via the lens. Results are even better (subjectively speaking).

Stacking is as fun as it is challenging. Go for it!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

it does, because if you have elements that are above the "wedge" of focus as you tilt the lens down, (sky, trees, mountaintops) they will be severely out of focus. Scheimpflug principle explains why this is so. I've got a 24, 45 and 85mm PC-E lenses, and I still do focus stacking for landscape on occasion.

Bendmac Loc: Bend, Oregon

Thanks, Cany...appreciate the insight!

Yes, I've been doing my research but putting it into practical application is another matter. I am a kinesthetic learner...learn by actually doing. I can read or watch but I need to go through the mechanics of something to get the best grasp of things.

I'd rather do some practicing from a correct baseline than commit something to memory or action and then have to "break the habit".

My wife calls me anal retentive...I prefer "highly organized"!

Cheers.

Cany143 Loc: SE Utah

Pleased I might've been able to provide a little insight; sorta makes my day. As per your '...learn by actually doing,' join the club. Or I'll join yours (if I get a t-shirt out of the deal, that is). Either way.

Go buy --or find someone's patch and go pick-- your wife some flowers (or that new dress/dishwasher/Ferrari she's so coyly been telling you she absolutely adores). Might help convince her you're highly..... something or another that's good.

Cheers backatcha.

Bendmac Loc: Bend, Oregon

Lol...she's put up with me for nigh onto 40 years...must have the patience of a saint!

So when you get home and download to either LR or PS (to do the actual stacking), is it fairly easy to find the various images you want to put in the stack, because they all look so similar? Or (heaven forbid!), do you keep a photo log?

If I see something that really lights my fire, I usually try a snap a quick full auto just to get the shot, then reshoot in ApPri (or whatever is appropriate) to try and get an improved version. A little overkill, I know, so I'm gonna have to learn to be a "gunslinger" and shoot from the hip, as it were.

We did a 7-night Alaska Railroad tour back in June...Anchorage down to Seward, few days there, back to Anchorage and then up to Denali for three days. Got some GREAT shots of that big ol' peak as well as some really nice grizz/cubs, moose, caribou and red fox shots. The Dall sheep were tough as they were wayyyy out there!

Leaving Sunday for a two week motorcycle trip up into British Columbia. Figured out how to safely pack some gear including a decent travel tripod, so hoping for some sunrise/sunsets, critters and, of course, some outrageous landscape opportunities.

Cheers,

Neil

tcthome Loc: NJ

Enjoy your trip!

WarpedWeaver

If you are learning, landscape photographer Nigel Danson did a video on focus stacking in PS a couple of weeks ago. He made it so easy to understand I think even I could accomplish it. I provided the link if you would like to check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9Nx8nOoKgE

Cany143 Loc: SE Utah

The easiest way to essentially mark and separate images you intend to stack is simple: before you shoot your first shot, hold your hand in front of your lens and shoot a frame. Then, after you've finished the last of the stack shots, hold your hand in front of the lens again and shoot one additional shot. Those dark and unfocused first and last place holder shots are easy to spot as you browse your images, and can be deleted afterward if you so choose.

Have a great trip, Neil!