via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP

I would not have used Stationary, but instead, Continuous focus, I would have set a faster shutter speed, which could be accomplished by using a larger aperture opening, such as f/5.6, and I would have used a higher ISO, which would also allow for a faster shutter speed. I don't shoot JPEG so can't comment on that aspect of the image, but it's impossible to get an exposure that is perfect for everything in an image. Since there is no white in the image to worry about I might have exposed on the boat itself and then used +exposure compensation until I got it right, knowing that this would lighten the water, too, and then expecting to bring down the highlights in post for the water. That's just me and you asked what I would do. There are other approaches, too. Finding the right approach comes from knowing your gear and knowing what it is you want to achieve.

tcthome Loc: NJ

spot metering = always for me. I can expose for what is most important in the pic.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

It’s a matter of being able to quickly analyze the light and then be prepared. Go out and practice with bracketing backlit subjects. That might be a place to start improving in these situations. It’s always "all about the light".

Lars Bogart Loc: Camano Isl., Wa., U.S.A.

Thank's

I'm Beginning to See The Light !!

Los-Angeles-Shooter Loc: Los Angeles

- shoot in raw+jpeg
- bracket. electrons are cheap
- raise exposure on canoe
- zoom in, if possible
- use a lens shade
- use ideal ISO for your camera

adjust to taste in post

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

but watch shutter speed to keep motion blur under control.

CPR Loc: Nature Coast of Florida

I would have shot twice - once for canoe and once for background and put them together in post. Some shots just can't be made without some PP. You could have shot for the canoe and let the sky go or vice-versa.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Shutter priority would let you fix the speed to a higher value, say 1/500. This image is blurred. You might also use a camera with image stabilization in the lens and/or body.

Aperture could be f/5.6 or thereabouts (sharper on that lens, and lets in more light so you can use a faster shutter speed).

For more depth of field (f/8 or so) and shutter speed, try ISO 400.

Exposure compensation of +2/3 stop or more may be required to hold shadows open, but that will burn out the highlights of a JPEG. SO...

Save a raw file, so you can adjust it on the computer to tame highlights and open shadows.

Use Daylight white balance for water scenes like this, where so much of the scene is blue. The AWB circuit is trying to neutralize excess blue by subtracting blue. That grays out the blues a bit.

These sorts of things you learn through reading books, trial and error, more reading, more trials... It takes time to build your knowledge so you can add technical finesse to your work. After a while, these techniques are like breathing. You just use them.

cdayton

This is what I get from your “miserable failure” jpeg using PS Express on my iPad. Maybe I’m missing the point.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

All of the light is split between the lower one-eighth and the upper one-eighth of the histogram. You can redistribute it to make a better distribution, but the particular situation did make this an awkward problem to fix.

{since in the Age of Film I shot Kodachrome primarily, I developed habits which include having the sun behind me whenever possible}

tinwhistle

I would have used a neutral density filter...