Help with manual mode
Jun 16, 2019 13:57:43 #
CO wrote:
The Z6 can go up to ISO 204,800. That's what the ISO was in first image. The metadata shows 2EV over 51,200.
Thanks! So it's still about 2/3 stop underexposed in my opinion.
Jun 16, 2019 20:19:45 #
BebuLamar wrote:
Thanks! So it's still about 2/3 stop underexposed in my opinion.
I'm sure you're right. I'm trying to understand how this worked out. You divided 8000 by 200 and got a factor of 40. You then multiplied ISO 9000 by 40 and got ISO 360,000.
I'm wondering if it was actually 5.25 f-stops between 1/8000 second and 1/200 second. If starting at 1/200 second wouldn't the f-stops progress like this?
1/200, 1/400, 1/800, 1/1600, 1/3200, 1/6400, and another .25 stops would arrive at 1/8000. That's 5.25 stops. That would make the corresponding ISO 47,250. There's something I'm not doing correctly.
Jun 16, 2019 20:27:55 #
donald4u
Loc: California
The Answer is light. You have U1 and U2 set for the shutter speed and F stop. Your light has changed. It is the only thing that is possible.
Jun 16, 2019 20:35:01 #
Jun 16, 2019 20:45:17 #
CO wrote:
I'm sure you're right. I'm trying to understand ho... (show quote)
It's 5 and 1/3 stop between 1/200 and 1/8000 but you're close so no problem there.
Now if 1/200 at ISO 9000 for correct exposure then
1/400 at 18000
1/800 at 36000
1/1600 at 72000
1/3200 at 144000
1/6400 at 28800
so 1/8000 is another 1/3 stop so it's about 360000
Jun 17, 2019 05:50:46 #
sueyeisert
Loc: New Jersey
CO wrote:
I rented the Z6 for two weeks not long ago. I didn't have that issue but something similar when using my studio strobes. I take light meter readings from the strobe and enter those values into the camera in manual mode. That results is a very dark viewfinder - too dark to use. The final photo is properly exposed but the viewfinder is very dark.
In a Fuji camera which is also mirrorless you are seeing exactly how you are setting the camera. This means it can be very dark because you need a flash or strobes, but the photo taken with flash or strobe will be fine. In Fuji this setting can be turned off so the viewfinder is always bright ie you Photo can be very underexposed but the viewfinder will be bright.
Jun 17, 2019 06:32:37 #
CO wrote:
The Z6 can go up to ISO 204,800. That's what the ISO was in first image. The metadata shows 2EV over 51,200.
A lot of back and forth chatter. Graphs explaining this and that. Yet you wonder why cell phones are becoming so popular.
Jun 17, 2019 06:44:04 #
Let me make this simple, your first image is underexposed while the second one looks reasonably good. In case you are not aware of it, underexposure occurs when the light is low and the camera has not been set properly for those conditions. The opposite will be overexposure where the sensor received more light than it was necessary for a good exposure.
Underexposure usually brings noise (grain) to the image. Overexposure clips the highlights that cannot be recovered. If you ask me, for indoor pictures using at least ISO 400 would be a good start. In case of children I would not use the Manual Mode but rather something like Program or Aperture Priority. In my particular case I like to set the ISO speed of the camera manually. You will NEVER see me setting ISO to automatic. I will be the first one to tell you that using manual ISO requires experience to know what to set according to lighting conditions.
Learn how to use your camera. Learn exposure. You will be better off.
Underexposure usually brings noise (grain) to the image. Overexposure clips the highlights that cannot be recovered. If you ask me, for indoor pictures using at least ISO 400 would be a good start. In case of children I would not use the Manual Mode but rather something like Program or Aperture Priority. In my particular case I like to set the ISO speed of the camera manually. You will NEVER see me setting ISO to automatic. I will be the first one to tell you that using manual ISO requires experience to know what to set according to lighting conditions.
Learn how to use your camera. Learn exposure. You will be better off.
Jun 17, 2019 07:10:49 #
I think you will need higher than 400 ISO to shoot kids moving around indoors unless you are using TTL flash too...
camerapapi wrote:
Let me make this simple, your first image is under... (show quote)
Jun 17, 2019 07:41:36 #
Vincejr
Loc: Northern Kentucky
Seems like all you need to do is learn how to use the light meter in the camera. To get the settings right for the scene.
Jun 17, 2019 07:54:39 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Elissa.allen21 wrote:
I've been trying to learn how to use manual on my nikon z6 (first time camera owner)..
Well, theres something weird going on when i take my pictures. The picture gets VERY grainy... in my u1 or u2 mode, or any other mode, i dont have any issues taking pictures. Any insights or suggestions? Im going to post two pictures of what it looks like in manual mode vs another mode
Well, theres something weird going on when i take my pictures. The picture gets VERY grainy... in my u1 or u2 mode, or any other mode, i dont have any issues taking pictures. Any insights or suggestions? Im going to post two pictures of what it looks like in manual mode vs another mode
High ISO will do it every time. Spot focusing on the eyes will help. Putting your subject facing the window and you shooting in from the window (without blocking the light reaching her face) will also improve your subject. Looks like she is enjoying the attention. Just a little more stop down on your lens will also help improve sharpness. ie. If your lens max is 2.8, then shoot at f 5.6 or f8 for sharpest results.
Jun 17, 2019 09:21:03 #
IDguy
Loc: Idaho
Elissa.allen21 wrote:
Just figured it out 🤣🙈
My exposure time was ridiculously high. Lol
My exposure time was ridiculously high. Lol
Methinks your fstop was too high and iso on auto...and maybe you used spot metering.
Jun 17, 2019 09:59:26 #
nadelewitz
Loc: Ithaca NY
With film there is a phenomenon called Reciprocity Failure". It's where very long exposure time is needed because subject illumination is extremely low, but the film fails to record an image entirely.
Reciprocity failure as such does not exist with digital, though some think that what you see here is it. In digital, the result of very dim subject and the requisite very long exposure is called "Noise". Some use the film term "Grain" to describe it, also erroneous.
Reciprocity failure as such does not exist with digital, though some think that what you see here is it. In digital, the result of very dim subject and the requisite very long exposure is called "Noise". Some use the film term "Grain" to describe it, also erroneous.
Jun 17, 2019 11:07:45 #
nadelewitz wrote:
With film there is a phenomenon called Reciprocity... (show quote)
None of the shots were made with long exposure. The first underexposed and very noisy was shot at 1/8000. The others which are better were shot at 1/200.
Jun 17, 2019 11:11:49 #
Vincejr
Loc: Northern Kentucky
Well we now know what was going on with the picture,the exposure setting was wrong.
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