Best lens for photographing waterfalls: Hi all. I have a Nikon D7000 with the 35mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm VR 3.5/5.6 zoom. I am going to the Finger Lakes/Ithaca/Watkins Glen areas in two...

Jbrustrom

Hi all. I have a Nikon D7000 with the 35mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm VR 3.5/5.6 zoom. I am going to the Finger Lakes/Ithaca/Watkins Glen areas in two weeks for a waterfall workshop and was wondering if these two lenses would be sufficient. I want to keep things simple and light. I also have variable ND and CPLs for both lenses. I think these are fine, but just wanted your opinions. Thanks.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Jbrustrom wrote:

Hi all. I have a Nikon D7000 with the 35mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm VR 3.5/5.6 zoom. I am going to the Finger Lakes/Ithaca/Watkins Glen areas in two weeks for a waterfall workshop and was wondering if these two lenses would be sufficient. I want to keep things simple and light. I also have variable ND and CPLs for both lenses. I think these are fine, but just wanted your opinions. Thanks.

....best lens for shooting waterfalls, is the one you have with you, and your legs, to frame the fall for best composition!

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

The lens that gives you the best composition.
That's why I like my 18-200. I can compose various aspects of the scene quickly in the camera.
The 200 setting may be used the least.

dick ranez

the lens can help with composition (as can moving back or forward), but the camera settings are what's most important to capture the effects you want. slow shutter speed = blurred moving water, open aperture=depth of field and so on. Good luck

Keen

Shooting waterfalls is more a matter of shutter speed, and thus the camera, than anything to do with the lens. Any lens which produces good images of other subjects can produce good images of waterfalls. A zoom lens will let you stand further away, and zoom in to produce the composition you want, varying it without changing lenses, or position. A Prime lens will require you to zoom in, and out, with your feet....changing your position. A slow shutter speed-1/15 sec., etc-will give you a blurry, flowing water look. A faster shutter speed-1/500 sec., etc-will give you a frozen ice / solid rock sculpture like image. Use whatever lenses you have, and see how each performs.

Bill_de Loc: US

I'll bet the best advice would come from whoever is giving the workshop. If you are signed up they should answer every question you have about their workshop.

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via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP

The lens does matter in the event that you want to get the waterfall from top to bottom. If you are just shooting a portion of the waterfall then a long lens will help out. The CPL will be good to guard against the sheen on rocks and help you retain highlights to ensure you do not blow out the waterfall where the sun is hitting it. Shutter speed is a variable you will want to consider when shooting. Look at the waterfall overall first, then determine what your goal is with that shot. Try to find a weighted point in the composition that will anchor the waterfall and land and bring it all together. I find that most waterfall images, including mine, miss the mark. Recently, however, I did figure it out and captured a fairly nice shot of Cascade Creek fall in Yosemite NP. Listen to your workshop instructor, that is why you are taking the course.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Jbrustrom wrote:

Hi all. I have a Nikon D7000 with the 35mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm VR 3.5/5.6 zoom. I am going to the Finger Lakes/Ithaca/Watkins Glen areas in two weeks for a waterfall workshop and was wondering if these two lenses would be sufficient. I want to keep things simple and light. I also have variable ND and CPLs for both lenses. I think these are fine, but just wanted your opinions. Thanks.

Either will be fine. I question the use of a variable ND, which can result in odd effects, mostly uneven illumination across the field particular with wide and ultra-wide lenses. You are better off with a regular ND filter.

repleo Loc: Boston

If they are large waterfalls bring some way of protecting your camera and lens from spray.

Tjohn Loc: Inverness, FL formerly Arivaca, AZ

Water proof would be nice.

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

Bill_de wrote:

I'll bet the best advice would come from whoever is giving the workshop. If you are signed up they should answer every question you have about their workshop.

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billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Jbrustrom wrote:

Hi all. I have a Nikon D7000 with the 35mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm VR 3.5/5.6 zoom. I am going to the Finger Lakes/Ithaca/Watkins Glen areas in two weeks for a waterfall workshop and was wondering if these two lenses would be sufficient. I want to keep things simple and light. I also have variable ND and CPLs for both lenses. I think these are fine, but just wanted your opinions. Thanks.

Depends on the size of the water fall and how close or how far away you are.

ELNikkor

The 18-55 is the only lens you will need, a tripod will help.

deanfl Loc: Georgia

Jbrustrom wrote:

Hi all. I have a Nikon D7000 with the 35mm 1.8 and the 18-55mm VR 3.5/5.6 zoom. I am going to the Finger Lakes/Ithaca/Watkins Glen areas in two weeks for a waterfall workshop and was wondering if these two lenses would be sufficient. I want to keep things simple and light. I also have variable ND and CPLs for both lenses. I think these are fine, but just wanted your opinions. Thanks.

I visited this area in October of 2017, mainly to do waterfalls. You will be fine to capture most waterfalls with the 18-55, using a CPL. On that trip I used a Nikon D7100, a Sigma 10-20, and a Tamron 18-400. There will be some areas where it would be nice to go wider than 18mm or longer than 55mm.

This area is one of my favorite trips....I’m sure you will go home with lots of great looking images....I hope you post some when you return.

ggab Loc: ?

Gene51 wrote:

Either will be fine. I question the use of a variable ND, which can result in odd effects, mostly uneven illumination across the field particular with wide and ultra-wide lenses. You are better off with a regular ND filter.