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1956 Ford
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Aug 28, 2012 19:47:16   #
sdemaagd Loc: Michigan
 
RVDigitalBoy wrote:
Well, if you're not interested in post processing (and perhaps you should be) then I would have done the following:

1. Adjusted ISO to 400
2. Set camera mode to "A" (or "Av" in Canon, I think.
3. Set meter to spot meter and take reading from the blue paint of the car.
4. bracket exposures and merge later (Oops! post processing).


I am pretty new here, and trying hard to learn more about lighting...my instinct would be to meter from the brightest part of the car--I'm just wondering why you suggest to read from the blue paint?

Thanks much for your input!

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Aug 28, 2012 19:55:16   #
Dogman Loc: Michigan
 
I did what many suggested in terms of post processing. Here is the link http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-60198-1.html

Dogman

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Aug 29, 2012 09:30:21   #
ShooterOR
 
sdemaagd wrote:
RVDigitalBoy wrote:
Well, if you're not interested in post processing (and perhaps you should be) then I would have done the following:

1. Adjusted ISO to 400
2. Set camera mode to "A" (or "Av" in Canon, I think.
3. Set meter to spot meter and take reading from the blue paint of the car.
4. bracket exposures and merge later (Oops! post processing).


I am pretty new here, and trying hard to learn more about lighting...my instinct would be to meter from the brightest part of the car--I'm just wondering why you suggest to read from the blue paint?

Thanks much for your input!
quote=RVDigitalBoy Well, if you're not interested... (show quote)


Metering from the brightest part of the car would result in even more underexposure if you used that as your exposure. Metering renders an exposure for mid-tones. The challenge here is to get more exposure on the car. The original exposure is under-exposed because the meter is compensating for the high-lights rendering them as a mid-tone therefore underexposing the car even more. I recommend getting "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It's easy to understand.

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Aug 29, 2012 14:54:44   #
sdemaagd Loc: Michigan
 
ShooterOR wrote:
sdemaagd wrote:
RVDigitalBoy wrote:
Well, if you're not interested in post processing (and perhaps you should be) then I would have done the following:

1. Adjusted ISO to 400
2. Set camera mode to "A" (or "Av" in Canon, I think.
3. Set meter to spot meter and take reading from the blue paint of the car.
4. bracket exposures and merge later (Oops! post processing).


I am pretty new here, and trying hard to learn more about lighting...my instinct would be to meter from the brightest part of the car--I'm just wondering why you suggest to read from the blue paint?

Thanks much for your input!
quote=RVDigitalBoy Well, if you're not interested... (show quote)


Metering from the brightest part of the car would result in even more underexposure if you used that as your exposure. Metering renders an exposure for mid-tones. The challenge here is to get more exposure on the car. The original exposure is under-exposed because the meter is compensating for the high-lights rendering them as a mid-tone therefore underexposing the car even more. I recommend getting "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It's easy to understand.
quote=sdemaagd quote=RVDigitalBoy Well, if you'r... (show quote)


Thanks so much for the explanation! I actually just got a book on Exposure--"Exposure Photo Workshop" by Jeff Wignall--do you know if that one is any good? I have just started it...

Reply
Aug 29, 2012 15:13:17   #
ShooterOR
 
sdemaagd wrote:
ShooterOR wrote:
sdemaagd wrote:
RVDigitalBoy wrote:
Well, if you're not interested in post processing (and perhaps you should be) then I would have done the following:

1. Adjusted ISO to 400
2. Set camera mode to "A" (or "Av" in Canon, I think.
3. Set meter to spot meter and take reading from the blue paint of the car.
4. bracket exposures and merge later (Oops! post processing).


I am pretty new here, and trying hard to learn more about lighting...my instinct would be to meter from the brightest part of the car--I'm just wondering why you suggest to read from the blue paint?

Thanks much for your input!
quote=RVDigitalBoy Well, if you're not interested... (show quote)


Metering from the brightest part of the car would result in even more underexposure if you used that as your exposure. Metering renders an exposure for mid-tones. The challenge here is to get more exposure on the car. The original exposure is under-exposed because the meter is compensating for the high-lights rendering them as a mid-tone therefore underexposing the car even more. I recommend getting "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It's easy to understand.
quote=sdemaagd quote=RVDigitalBoy Well, if you'r... (show quote)


Thanks so much for the explanation! I actually just got a book on Exposure--"Exposure Photo Workshop" by Jeff Wignall--do you know if that one is any good? I have just started it...
quote=ShooterOR quote=sdemaagd quote=RVDigitalB... (show quote)


I don't know it. There are probably many good books on exposure. I default to recommending the Bryan Peterson books because he used to live in Oregon-- and I took several seminars from him a lifetime ago.

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Aug 29, 2012 16:04:41   #
sdemaagd Loc: Michigan
 
Thanks for the reply! I will try it out and let you know what I think when I'm done! What I like about it is that apparently there is a website to which I can upload the photos that are given as an "assignment" at the end of different chapters...I just hope the "critique-ers" know their stuff! I really need to learn more about exposure...

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Aug 30, 2012 11:04:23   #
gordnanaimo Loc: Vancouver Island
 
Bring a flash or two would be better one on the car and one on the wheels. Other than that you can try to pp with shadows highlights or just write it off to experience and try again.

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