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"Analog" photography to "Digital" photography transition
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Jun 7, 2019 09:15:04   #
BebuLamar
 
traderjohn wrote:
Gee....Do you ever wonder why cell phones are so popular?


Don't the cell phones have all the stuff Burk talked about?

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 09:15:10   #
johnst1001a Loc: West Chester, Ohio
 
I use YouTube a lot. Much of what you ask can be answered by watching videos. For instance I was watching a video on how a digital camera sees color. I would suggest just typing in "how does a digital camera see color" and you will likely get several videos on the topic. Another example is how does photo paper affect the final product quality.

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 09:15:29   #
johnst1001a Loc: West Chester, Ohio
 
I use YouTube a lot. Much of what you ask can be answered by watching videos. For instance I was watching a video on how a digital camera sees color. I would suggest just typing in "how does a digital camera see color" and you will likely get several videos on the topic. Another example is how does photo paper affect the final product quality.

Reply
 
 
Jun 7, 2019 09:41:05   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
One consideration to simplify your quest: Like film photography, digital photography uses the exposure triangle to gain a good exposure of the subject.

You use the expression "digital image quality" and want a useful defintion of it as a guide. Offhand, I venture that image quality, whether in the digital format or the film format, involves capturing highlights and blacks in the image.

This approach differs depending on the medium. In film, the rule is to expose for the blacks or shadows. In digital, the rule is to expose for the highlights or the whites. Image quality rests on these exposures.

Although technically inclined, you appear apprehensive about taking up digital photography. Please know that your knowledge and understanding of film photography will function as a grounding for your learning to do digital photography.

Some here will recommend books to help you with the transition. I suggest that you attend one or more workshops in doing digital photography. Join a camera club for personal support from experienced photographers. Look up photography tutorials on the Internet to address specific issues. Start with a simpler photography software, such as Adobe Elements. You can jump to the full Photoshop CC later when comfortable.

Buy or rent a a beginner digital camera. I can recommend the Canon T7i, being that I'm a Canon shooter. This camera may come with a kit lens; if not, consider buying the Canon EF-S 17-85mm zoom lens.

Note that you can buy used or refurbished camera gear to conserve your dollars. Buy a more sophisticated camera when you sense you have outgrown the beginner camera.

Good luck.
TRBenjeski wrote:
Greetings...

My sincere interest in photography includes both the artistic and technical aspects. After undergraduate studies at the Rochester Institute of Technology, I spent nearly 15 years as a Research Laboratory Technician at the Eastman Kodak Research Laboratories on multiple interesting and exciting projects during the 70's and 80's.

Enough about me – now for my digital photography questions that I hope you can help with.

While I continue to have a strong interest in photography, unfortunately, my knowledge and expertise is associated with “analog” photography – silver halide, wet chemistry photography – and not with digital photography technology. However, I would very much like to better understand the digital photography technology, especially regarding digital image quality – how it is achieved, what factors affect it.

Although I have conducted some personal research into better understanding digital image quality, the texts that I have reviewed have not contained the answers or detail that I seek. For one example of what I mean by “digital image quality”, I have viewed multiple digital image files of the same subject, with each digital image file consisting of increasing quality – sharpness, resolution, color rendition, etc. I would very much like to understand how this is achieved.

I understand that the digital camera’s imaging sensor size significantly contributes to the digital image quality, as well as megapixel quantity of the camera. But, I believe that there are additional factors that affect digital image quality, including megabyte size of the digital image file itself.

If you might be able to recommend one or more texts that could answer these and other questions I have regarding digital image quality, how it is achived, and what factors affect it, I would sincerely appreciate it.

Additionally, I would like to try to “connect the dots” between analog and digital photography, wherever possible. Basically, I would like to identify the technical aspects in digital photography that have a corresponding technical aspect in analog photography.

Please accept my sincere appreciation for your time in reading this message, and for any assistance you can provide. Thank you very much!
Greetings... br br My sincere interest in photogr... (show quote)

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 09:48:39   #
olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida
 
burkphoto wrote:
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel density together determine the dynamic range (photon sucking potential) of a camera. The bigger the sensels (sensor elements), the more light each of them can turn into electrons. So both the "chip" size and the "megapixel density" of the sensor affect dynamic range, color depth, and low light performance.

Sensors are analog. Their output is optionally amplified, then digitized with an analog-to-digital converter, and then either saved into a raw file, or converted in the camera to a JPEG image. (Actually, the JPEG conversion ALWAYS happens, because a small JPEG preview image is stuffed into every raw file's "wrapper" format.)

Different cameras perform both of these operations differently! So the processing design engineered into the camera can have a profound effect on the appearance of the output. Two sensors of the same size with 16 MP output will produce different results due to different sensor design, and different processing. Two 16 MP sensors of different size, will have those differences, plus the inherent differences in signal-to-noise ratio caused by the size difference of their sensels.

At this point I want to make a very important distinction between a sensor element and a pixel. If you always think of pixels as NUMBERS, numbers that have no associated physical properties, you will understand digital photography much better!

A sensor element by itself (except in the Foveon sensor) is not a pixel, because it cannot represent more than one color. The sensor elements on the sensor are covered with red, or green, or blue filters. Their output is stored in an array. Data from several to many adjacent sensor elements is processed into pixel data with very complex algorithms. So a pixel is really a calculation of a point of color and brightness based on SEVERAL points of filtered light.

If raw data is processed into an image file in post production software on a computer, we have an analogy to color negative film. The raw file is likened to exposed film that has not been developed, but that can be developed in an infinite number of ways, both now, and in the future. It includes everything that the sensor recorded that the A/D converter could turn into numbers. But it is NOT an image.

If raw data is processed to an 8-bit JPEG in the camera, we have an analogy to color slide film. The image quality is highly dependent upon camera menu settings, especially white balance and exposure. Most of the raw data is discarded during this processing. What remains has limited latitude for adjustment later.

The BIT DEPTH of the data in the raw file determines potential dynamic range of the file. The physical properties of the sensor limit the actual dynamic range recorded. Bit depth is how many binary digits are used to store each value... 8 bits is 256 bits per color, 12 bits is 4096 bits per color, 14 bits is 16,384 bits per color. Better digital cameras record 12 to 14 stops of dynamic range in raw... But a JPEG contains roughly six stops of data, and you can only fit about 5.5 stops onto most photo papers.

Resolution is affected by many factors, but the basic one is *image dimensions in pixels*. A 6000 pixel by 4000 pixel image (24 Megapixels) is a relatively high resolution file. It can make a very nice 20" by 13.333" print at 300 INPUT Pixels Per Inch (NOT dpi, which is an output device (printer) resolution measurement, or a scanner input resolution measurement. DOTS have dimensions. PIXELS have ONLY VALUES that can be represented by dots.)

You can scale pixels to any size, with or without interpolation. Maintaining the same pixel count changes the resolution. Interpolation modifies the pixel count, either "faking data" (enlargement) or discarding data (reduction).

It is best to forget about megabyte sizes of files. Various file compression schemes (especially JPEG) render file size useless as a guide to image quality. Pixel dimensions are really the only accurate indicator. Divide each dimension by your intended "output resolution input" (how many pixels from the original, uninterpolated file you will convert to each inch of printed or displayed output) to get the optimal maximum size. In the example above, 6000x4000 at 300PPI yields 20"x13.333" on paper. Each of those pixels may be reproduced by a varying number of dots, depending on the output device.

Of course, most of the same things from analog photography affect digital image quality, too. Factors such as lens performance (MTF performance, coma, astigmatism, distortion, chromatic aberrations...) play a similar, if even more critical role. Light is light, although the linearity of digital camera response means you may prefer much less specularity, greater fill light in shadows, and lower overall lighting ratios. The S-curve of the H&D plots we had for film must be simulated in post-production from raw files — if you prefer a more film-like look.

That's all for now... food for thought. WELCOME TO THE 'HOG.
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel ... (show quote)


Nice one Bill!!

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 09:52:39   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
TRBenjeski wrote:
Greetings...

My sincere interest in photography includes both the artistic and technical aspects. After undergraduate studies at the Rochester Institute of Technology, I spent nearly 15 years as a Research Laboratory Technician at the Eastman Kodak Research Laboratories on multiple interesting and exciting projects during the 70's and 80's.

Enough about me – now for my digital photography questions that I hope you can help with.

While I continue to have a strong interest in photography, unfortunately, my knowledge and expertise is associated with “analog” photography – silver halide, wet chemistry photography – and not with digital photography technology. However, I would very much like to better understand the digital photography technology, especially regarding digital image quality – how it is achieved, what factors affect it.

Although I have conducted some personal research into better understanding digital image quality, the texts that I have reviewed have not contained the answers or detail that I seek. For one example of what I mean by “digital image quality”, I have viewed multiple digital image files of the same subject, with each digital image file consisting of increasing quality – sharpness, resolution, color rendition, etc. I would very much like to understand how this is achieved.

I understand that the digital camera’s imaging sensor size significantly contributes to the digital image quality, as well as megapixel quantity of the camera. But, I believe that there are additional factors that affect digital image quality, including megabyte size of the digital image file itself.

If you might be able to recommend one or more texts that could answer these and other questions I have regarding digital image quality, how it is achived, and what factors affect it, I would sincerely appreciate it.

Additionally, I would like to try to “connect the dots” between analog and digital photography, wherever possible. Basically, I would like to identify the technical aspects in digital photography that have a corresponding technical aspect in analog photography.

Please accept my sincere appreciation for your time in reading this message, and for any assistance you can provide. Thank you very much!
Greetings... br br My sincere interest in photogr... (show quote)


The Manual of Photography, Elizabeth Allen and Sophie Triantaphillidou. It is a very large technical manual that covers all aspects of photography from a scientific perspective. A very good book to have on hand if you like to go directly to a trusted source of information.

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 10:37:57   #
Fredrick Loc: Former NYC, now San Francisco Bay Area
 
burkphoto wrote:
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel density together determine the dynamic range (photon sucking potential) of a camera. The bigger the sensels (sensor elements), the more light each of them can turn into electrons. So both the "chip" size and the "megapixel density" of the sensor affect dynamic range, color depth, and low light performance.

Sensors are analog. Their output is optionally amplified, then digitized with an analog-to-digital converter, and then either saved into a raw file, or converted in the camera to a JPEG image. (Actually, the JPEG conversion ALWAYS happens, because a small JPEG preview image is stuffed into every raw file's "wrapper" format.)

Different cameras perform both of these operations differently! So the processing design engineered into the camera can have a profound effect on the appearance of the output. Two sensors of the same size with 16 MP output will produce different results due to different sensor design, and different processing. Two 16 MP sensors of different size, will have those differences, plus the inherent differences in signal-to-noise ratio caused by the size difference of their sensels.

At this point I want to make a very important distinction between a sensor element and a pixel. If you always think of pixels as NUMBERS, numbers that have no associated physical properties, you will understand digital photography much better!

A sensor element by itself (except in the Foveon sensor) is not a pixel, because it cannot represent more than one color. The sensor elements on the sensor are covered with red, or green, or blue filters. Their output is stored in an array. Data from several to many adjacent sensor elements is processed into pixel data with very complex algorithms. So a pixel is really a calculation of a point of color and brightness based on SEVERAL points of filtered light.

If raw data is processed into an image file in post production software on a computer, we have an analogy to color negative film. The raw file is likened to exposed film that has not been developed, but that can be developed in an infinite number of ways, both now, and in the future. It includes everything that the sensor recorded that the A/D converter could turn into numbers. But it is NOT an image.

If raw data is processed to an 8-bit JPEG in the camera, we have an analogy to color slide film. The image quality is highly dependent upon camera menu settings, especially white balance and exposure. Most of the raw data is discarded during this processing. What remains has limited latitude for adjustment later.

The BIT DEPTH of the data in the raw file determines potential dynamic range of the file. The physical properties of the sensor limit the actual dynamic range recorded. Bit depth is how many binary digits are used to store each value... 8 bits is 256 bits per color, 12 bits is 4096 bits per color, 14 bits is 16,384 bits per color. Better digital cameras record 12 to 14 stops of dynamic range in raw... But a JPEG contains roughly six stops of data, and you can only fit about 5.5 stops onto most photo papers.

Resolution is affected by many factors, but the basic one is *image dimensions in pixels*. A 6000 pixel by 4000 pixel image (24 Megapixels) is a relatively high resolution file. It can make a very nice 20" by 13.333" print at 300 INPUT Pixels Per Inch (NOT dpi, which is an output device (printer) resolution measurement, or a scanner input resolution measurement. DOTS have dimensions. PIXELS have ONLY VALUES that can be represented by dots.)

You can scale pixels to any size, with or without interpolation. Maintaining the same pixel count changes the resolution. Interpolation modifies the pixel count, either "faking data" (enlargement) or discarding data (reduction).

It is best to forget about megabyte sizes of files. Various file compression schemes (especially JPEG) render file size useless as a guide to image quality. Pixel dimensions are really the only accurate indicator. Divide each dimension by your intended "output resolution input" (how many pixels from the original, uninterpolated file you will convert to each inch of printed or displayed output) to get the optimal maximum size. In the example above, 6000x4000 at 300PPI yields 20"x13.333" on paper. Each of those pixels may be reproduced by a varying number of dots, depending on the output device.

Of course, most of the same things from analog photography affect digital image quality, too. Factors such as lens performance (MTF performance, coma, astigmatism, distortion, chromatic aberrations...) play a similar, if even more critical role. Light is light, although the linearity of digital camera response means you may prefer much less specularity, greater fill light in shadows, and lower overall lighting ratios. The S-curve of the H&D plots we had for film must be simulated in post-production from raw files — if you prefer a more film-like look.

That's all for now... food for thought. WELCOME TO THE 'HOG.
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel ... (show quote)


This is why I just love this forum! Thanks for that great explanation, Bill.

Reply
 
 
Jun 7, 2019 10:42:07   #
BebuLamar
 
anotherview wrote:
One consideration to simplify your quest: Like film photography, digital photography uses the exposure triangle to gain a good exposure of the subject.

You use the expression "digital image quality" and want a useful defintion of it as a guide. Offhand, I venture that image quality, whether in the digital format or the film format, involves capturing highlights and blacks in the image.

This approach differs depending on the medium. In film, the rule is to expose for the blacks or shadows. In digital, the rule is to expose for the highlights or the whites. Image quality rests on these exposures.

Although technically inclined, you appear apprehensive about taking up digital photography. Please know that your knowledge and understanding of film photography will function as a grounding for your learning to do digital photography.

Some here will recommend books to help you with the transition. I suggest that you attend one or more workshops in doing digital photography. Join a camera club for personal support from experienced photographers. Look up photography tutorials on the Internet to address specific issues. Start with a simpler photography software, such as Adobe Elements. You can jump to the full Photoshop CC later when comfortable.

Buy or rent a a beginner digital camera. I can recommend the Canon T7i, being that I'm a Canon shooter. This camera may come with a kit lens; if not, consider buying the Canon EF-S 17-85mm zoom lens.

Note that you can buy used or refurbished camera gear to conserve your dollars. Buy a more sophisticated camera when you sense you have outgrown the beginner camera.

Good luck.
One consideration to simplify your quest: Like fi... (show quote)


To the OP! You have studied a lot about photography and was in the best place to learn. Do you know about the exposure triangle?

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 11:28:33   #
ballsafire Loc: Lafayette, Louisiana
 
burkphoto wrote:
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel density together determine the dynamic range (photon sucking potential) of a camera. The bigger the sensels (sensor elements), the more light each of them can turn into electrons. So both the "chip" size and the "megapixel density" of the sensor affect dynamic range, color depth, and low light performance.

Sensors are analog. Their output is optionally amplified, then digitized with an analog-to-digital converter, and then either saved into a raw file, or converted in the camera to a JPEG image. (Actually, the JPEG conversion ALWAYS happens, because a small JPEG preview image is stuffed into every raw file's "wrapper" format.)

Different cameras perform both of these operations differently! So the processing design engineered into the camera can have a profound effect on the appearance of the output. Two sensors of the same size with 16 MP output will produce different results due to different sensor design, and different processing. Two 16 MP sensors of different size, will have those differences, plus the inherent differences in signal-to-noise ratio caused by the size difference of their sensels.

At this point I want to make a very important distinction between a sensor element and a pixel. If you always think of pixels as NUMBERS, numbers that have no associated physical properties, you will understand digital photography much better!

A sensor element by itself (except in the Foveon sensor) is not a pixel, because it cannot represent more than one color. The sensor elements on the sensor are covered with red, or green, or blue filters. Their output is stored in an array. Data from several to many adjacent sensor elements is processed into pixel data with very complex algorithms. So a pixel is really a calculation of a point of color and brightness based on SEVERAL points of filtered light.

If raw data is processed into an image file in post production software on a computer, we have an analogy to color negative film. The raw file is likened to exposed film that has not been developed, but that can be developed in an infinite number of ways, both now, and in the future. It includes everything that the sensor recorded that the A/D converter could turn into numbers. But it is NOT an image.

If raw data is processed to an 8-bit JPEG in the camera, we have an analogy to color slide film. The image quality is highly dependent upon camera menu settings, especially white balance and exposure. Most of the raw data is discarded during this processing. What remains has limited latitude for adjustment later.

The BIT DEPTH of the data in the raw file determines potential dynamic range of the file. The physical properties of the sensor limit the actual dynamic range recorded. Bit depth is how many binary digits are used to store each value... 8 bits is 256 bits per color, 12 bits is 4096 bits per color, 14 bits is 16,384 bits per color. Better digital cameras record 12 to 14 stops of dynamic range in raw... But a JPEG contains roughly six stops of data, and you can only fit about 5.5 stops onto most photo papers.

Resolution is affected by many factors, but the basic one is *image dimensions in pixels*. A 6000 pixel by 4000 pixel image (24 Megapixels) is a relatively high resolution file. It can make a very nice 20" by 13.333" print at 300 INPUT Pixels Per Inch (NOT dpi, which is an output device (printer) resolution measurement, or a scanner input resolution measurement. DOTS have dimensions. PIXELS have ONLY VALUES that can be represented by dots.)

You can scale pixels to any size, with or without interpolation. Maintaining the same pixel count changes the resolution. Interpolation modifies the pixel count, either "faking data" (enlargement) or discarding data (reduction).

It is best to forget about megabyte sizes of files. Various file compression schemes (especially JPEG) render file size useless as a guide to image quality. Pixel dimensions are really the only accurate indicator. Divide each dimension by your intended "output resolution input" (how many pixels from the original, uninterpolated file you will convert to each inch of printed or displayed output) to get the optimal maximum size. In the example above, 6000x4000 at 300PPI yields 20"x13.333" on paper. Each of those pixels may be reproduced by a varying number of dots, depending on the output device.

Of course, most of the same things from analog photography affect digital image quality, too. Factors such as lens performance (MTF performance, coma, astigmatism, distortion, chromatic aberrations...) play a similar, if even more critical role. Light is light, although the linearity of digital camera response means you may prefer much less specularity, greater fill light in shadows, and lower overall lighting ratios. The S-curve of the H&D plots we had for film must be simulated in post-production from raw files — if you prefer a more film-like look.

That's all for now... food for thought. WELCOME TO THE 'HOG.
The combination of sensor surface area and sensel ... (show quote)


Wow!! I am really surprised at your off-the-cuff answer to a very important question! You really know the foundations of photography which was asked. It is complicated but quite simple to grasp once you start thinking about the transition from analog to digital photography. At first I didn't think there would be any satisfactory answers but I am now proud of the members of this forum! I often wondered about the answer to the operator's question.

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 11:29:23   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
A key factor that you didn’t mention is the software that each maker puts into their cameras, and that’s highly variable. The most important hardware is quality glass, then the camera's computer takes over. Software in a smartphone can produce images comparable to a DSLR's even though they have small sensors. Software in a mirrorless camera can provide features that a DSLR owner can only dream or add with other accessories or digital interfaces. All digital cameras can be made in such a way to take excellent photos.

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 11:39:04   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
gvarner wrote:
A key factor that you didn’t mention is the software that each maker puts into their cameras, and that’s highly variable. The most important hardware is quality glass, then the camera's computer takes over. Software in a smartphone can produce images comparable to a DSLR's even though they have small sensors. Software in a mirrorless camera can provide features that a DSLR owner can only dream or add with other accessories or digital interfaces. All digital cameras can be made in such a way to take excellent photos.
A key factor that you didn’t mention is the softwa... (show quote)


With all respect, I’m going to have to disagree. SW can certainly allow dramatic changes/improvements in an image, but all the SW in the world can’t compensate for the limited DR and poor low light/low noise capability of that tiny sensor. When it comes to sensor performance, size is king. And from a SW perspective, you just cannot do the precise editing on a smartphone that you can on a decent computer running LR/PS (or your PP SW of choice) with plenty of RAM and a big monitor. There are a number of things in the world (including cameras and loudspeakers for example), where all other things being equal, bigger is better in terms of absolute performance.

Reply
 
 
Jun 7, 2019 11:42:56   #
Dug E Pi
 
Digital is overall getting so sharp that editing programs are adding a texture feature so that you can make it look more film like.

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 12:05:20   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
TriX wrote:
With all respect, I’m going to have to disagree. SW can certainly allow dramatic changes/improvements in an image, but all the SW in the world can’t compensate for the limited DR and poor low light/low noise capability of that tiny sensor. When it comes to sensor performance, size is king. And from a SW perspective, you just cannot do the precise editing on a smartphone that you can on a decent computer running LR/PS (or your PP SW of choice) with plenty of RAM and a big monitor. There are a number of things in the world (including cameras and loudspeakers for example), where all other things being equal, bigger is better in terms of absolute performance.
With all respect, I’m going to have to disagree. S... (show quote)


UHH members have reported quality prints up to 16x24. I think that speaks well to smartphone camera quality. My iPhone has 12mp and I frequently copy it’s photos to my PC and edit them with PSE. Or I can use Snapseed on my phone to edit. Check out Emil Pakarklis on YouTube to see what the better smartphones can do. He features iPhones but the techniques apply to all brands.

Reply
Jun 7, 2019 12:07:09   #
Fredrick Loc: Former NYC, now San Francisco Bay Area
 
gvarner wrote:
UHH members have reported quality prints up to 16x24. I think that speaks well to smartphone camera quality. My iPhone has 12mp and I frequently copy it’s photos to my PC and edit them with PSE. Or I can use Snapseed on my phone to edit. Check out Emil Pakarklis on YouTube to see what the better smartphones can do. He features iPhones but the techniques apply to all brands.



Reply
Jun 7, 2019 12:22:28   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
I too was fortunate enough to have an academic/technical education in the SCIENCE of analog/silver/chemical photography- it's in my background but not in my DNA, so to speak. At a crucial juncture in my educational life, I continued on in applied photography. It's important to understand how all things photographic work- it helps in problems solving in applied photography but engineering was not in my plan. So...for the last 50+ years, I have earned my living in commercial photography, fine portraiture, and event photography.

Of course, the greater percentage of that time was in the film era. I operated a studio with an in-house lab for the production of black and white and color imagery. We used a wide variety of films and chemistry, most of which came from Kodak.

I was forced into the digital era, virtually overnight, however not unwillingly. A lot of our materials began to rapidly disappear from the marketplace and our customers began to demand digital media, especially in the commercial area. Over a period of about 3 months, we phased out most of our analog production and plunge into the world of digital.

Of course, there were some major technological changes in the equipment but artistically and aesthetically, and how the aesthetics relate to basic camera operation did not change at all. F/stops, shutter speeds and ISO setting remain the same, focus and optics did not change except for improvements and convenience and the elements of composition, lighting, and subject rendition are all still there and have little to do with the technology, the equipment or the materials- that is all up to the photographer's savvy, talent, skill sets, technique, and artistry.

All of the basic technique and experience you have had with analog methodologies can be directly applied to digital photography. If you have darkroom experience in custom printing, you can carry out all of the same controls on one of the popular editing platforms such as PhotoShop or Lightroom. Your computer is now your darkroom without all the muss and fuss.

As a former Kodak man, you will remember all of the film choices and how we had to select films based on speed, grain structure, dynamic range, color palette, and many other characteristics. We selected various films for the work at hand, decided on their attributes and limitations and made the necessary compromises. Nowadays we can simply dial much of this in, at the camera and then make infinite adjustment in editing.

These days, there seems to be a preoccupation, among many photographers, pertaining to sharpness and acutance. Believe me, we are producing images on a full-frame DSLR that rival the image quality if medium and large format film product.

There is a lot of what I call "false nostalgia" about the "look" of film as opposed to that of digital imagery, I have been able to replicate or surpass the "look" and quality of my analog work simply by paying attention to technique. Back in the film days, we paid careful attention to exposure, lighting, and composition so we did not have to "re-shoot" all of our work in the darkroom. So many photographers, tend to shoot kind of sloppily and depend on time-consuming and tedious post-processing actions to "resurrect" poorly crafted digital files. If you shoot cleanly and carefully, your post-processing can be minimal- just like routing darkroom procedures- dodging, burning, cropping, tweaking, contrast control and more. Special effects are readily available in many plugin programs.

Yes. some of the terminology and buzz-words are different but much is the same. We have "noise" rather than grain. Yes, again, I know pixels are not silver halide grain embedded in gelatin but their effect is similar and it does increase with the increase in ISO settings. It is, however, less problematic and is less significant even at extremely high ISO settings- and it's improving all the time in many of the latest camera bodies.

As I alluded to before, science and electronics are wonderful and you can delve into all of it very intensively if you wish to. There is a plethora of information online and all kinds of research and reading material to stusdy. If you want to TAKE PICTURES and exploit the artistic potential of digital photography, GET A CAMERA! Put it in your hands, raise to your eye, peer through the viewfinder. You will feel at home! Except for the fact that the abundance of the data in the viewfinder and on the LCD screen at the back of the camera may seem like the instrumentation on the flight deck of a jet aircraft, the aperture, shutter speeds, and ISO are still there. Many of the lenses are much improved as to performance but optical theory regarding focal length, depth of field, acutance, aberrations, distortions, and all the other goodies are still valid. You won't need all those great little Kodak Data Books regarding film as to dynamic range etc. The histogram, available on the rear screen will give you all the indications and you will see each image almost instantaneously!

Convenience- you can switch gears without changing the film- camera controls enable resetting speed, color/monochrome, automatic or manual exposure exposure metering, auto/manual focus, and there are almost endless features that you can "buy" if you need them- Some of the latest and greatest camera bodies have GPS, features to help avoid blur due to camera movement, sophisticated flash synchronization modes, and will just about brew your coffee in the morning. Some of this is handy and some are, in my opinion, overengineering but it's there for the money.

WOW! and no more caustic and toxic chemicals, the potential for stains and reticulation, water filtration issues, replenishment rates, silver recovery, rooms full of big, expensive and bulky processing gear, printers, enlargers, washers, dryers, tanks full of chemical storage and an electric bill that seem like that of an entire neighborhood! I don't really miss any of that but I do miss the visit from our great Kodak TRs. They were always great troubleshooters- I have lots of stories lie wh the CP2 chemicals ate our processing machine rollers. RT Chemistry to the rescue, except you, needed a doctorate in chemistry to figure out the replenishment rates. Nostalgia!

I don't think you mentioned, in your original post, as to what you would like to shoot. If you specify, there are many helpful members and good resources on this site- they will pitch in and help you make the transition!

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