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New Lens coming
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May 22, 2019 15:59:29   #
aellman Loc: Boston MA
 
sumo wrote:
Recently I was taking photos of our grand kids jumping/swimming. Kept adjusting settings. Bump up the speed from 250 to 500 to 1000, Bump up ISO,
lower the F stop. Never could get a good picture. Either too dark or blurry or both. Couple more just washed out and just way too soft. Not a keeper in the bunch
I was using a 18-250 sigma lens, 3.5-6.3 on my Nikon 600.

All still shots were just fine.

Could be my ability to adjust on the fly. Just a very slow focus lens

Soooo I thought to myself. Get a fixed f stop lens (the lower number the better) that I don’t have to worry about and get a zoom with some reach.

I’m basically an advanced amateur at this. Been at it 60 years tho. therefore,
after a few more hours of reading UHH and other sites, I purchased this lens from Nikon…

I read on UHH some folks call this a prime lens since F-stop is fixed…
I didn’t think a prime lens could change from 24mm to 70mm…like I said Im an old amateur at this
Recently I was taking photos of our grand kids jum... (show quote)


A prime lens has a fixed focal length (no zoom), not a fixed aperture.

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May 22, 2019 21:43:39   #
uhaas2009
 
Did you said you purchase this lens? If yes try it.....

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May 23, 2019 09:28:31   #
sumo Loc: Houston suburb
 
burkphoto wrote:
It's a damned good lens, but as you suspect, it is a fixed maximum aperture zoom, not a prime lens! Primes have ONE focal length. (Lots of folks get confused over this, or loose with words, or both.)

The 24-70mm f/2.8 is the classic professional, fixed maximum aperture, wide angle to short telephoto zoom lens. I call it a "rubber normal." It is the most used zoom in my kit. (I use a 12-35mm f/2.8 on Micro 4/3, which has the same field of view range, at 1/4 the weight and half the cost.)

Pros call the full frame 24-70 the middle range of the holy trinity of zooms... the wide one is either 14-24mm or 16-35mm f/2.8. The long one is 70-200mm f/2.8. You can get longer zooms, and zooms with a wider range of focal lengths, but these three are the best you can get for most uses other than field sports and wildlife work.

Zooms with fixed maximum apertures are larger, heavier, and more difficult to design than zooms with variable maximum apertures. They work great in a studio with all manual flash equipment, since you can zoom without changing the exposure if you're working wide open.

But a variable max aperture zoom can be sharper, better corrected from distortion, CA, etc., at a given price point, and lighter/more portable. The annoying part about the variable aperture is that the dimmest aperture is at maximum magnification, where you need the fastest shutter speed to avoid camera shake.
It's a damned good lens, but as you suspect, it is... (show quote)


Thank you..

I always read your replies to other folks... I value what you say...always polite and very educational at least for me, an old novice...maybe my problem is that I seem to be losing my memory.... because I get it when you or others are saying it, I slap my forehead and say to myself hell I know that.......but when I try to use what I just read....I'm too slow on knowing how to set camera properly..

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May 23, 2019 09:32:51   #
sumo Loc: Houston suburb
 
DaveO wrote:
Just a thought, but I would also make sure that you are optimising the focusing capabilities of your camera. AF-S vs AF-C, etc. Steve Perry has a lot of helpful information that may be of interest to you.
https://backcountrygallery.com/secrets-nikon-autofocus-system/


Thanks...I bought the book...and have read most of it... I should know all this stuff as long as I've been at it...but the book brought up many points I've been overlooking/forgetting...I've thought about buying an 810 or 850 camera....but have decided I'd better learn how to work this 600 first.

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