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Tamron 150-600 contemporary
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May 10, 2019 08:29:44   #
FvS Loc: Netherlands
 
Excellent shot.....compliments...

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May 10, 2019 10:54:49   #
ggab Loc: ?
 
FvS wrote:
Excellent shot.....compliments...


Thank you, I appreciate it.
While the G2 is supposed to be better, I haven't had the chance to test mine yet.
The G1 is not a bad lens.

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May 10, 2019 11:23:44   #
davesit Loc: Media, PA
 
I bought a G1 for $375 from Craigslist. I already owned the Nikon 200-500, but the price for the G1 was hard to resist. It turned out that there were a significant amount of dust on the interior side of the first glass element group. The previous owner had used it to shoot his son's budding baseball career in the minors. Nonetheless, it took me just an hour to remove the first glass group (thanks, YouTube) and clean it. I suspect that I'll have to clean it again at some point if I use it often. The pics are sharp once the lens is stopped down a bit. Even with its kinks (e.g. slow or sometime failed AF), if you could get a G1 at a low cost, it's definitely worth it.


(Download)

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May 10, 2019 12:16:16   #
Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb
 
I have the fist one and find it great. the 2nd is told to be better but, I'm fine with the older version. I use with a Canon 5D IV and a 7DII

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May 10, 2019 15:38:22   #
Doc Barry Loc: Huntsville, Alabama USA
 
Lots of good replies have been given.

My guidance is to only buy the G2 version and purchase a package that includes the TAP-IN Console. I purchased mine through Amazon which was sold by Digital Goja. It included the TAP-IN Console, memory card, hard case, and other stuff I just put into a box of "I don't need this."

The lens worked fair in the sense of IQ, but once I tweaked it with the TAP-IN Console, it worked very well. This calibration of the lens take a bit of time (30 minutes or so), but IMHO is a must to do.

This is my only non-pro Nikon glass, but I am quite pleased with its performance (and didn't have to pay a lot more money for the Nikon lens).

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May 10, 2019 16:51:59   #
ggab Loc: ?
 
Doc Barry wrote:
Lots of good replies have been given.
The lens worked fair in the sense of IQ, but once I tweaked it with the TAP-IN Console, it worked very well. This calibration of the lens take a bit of time (30 minutes or so), but IMHO is a must to do.


It only took you 30 minutes or so to calibrate via the Tap in console?
You are my new hero!
I gave up after an hour of switching back and forth. Please post the process you used!

The Tap in Console is great for updating firmware and customizing the VC.

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May 10, 2019 21:19:59   #
RodM Loc: SE Virginia
 
I love my first generation 150-600 for bear hunting along Skyline drive in Virginia. It is my only non-Canon lens, but I can't see investing in Canon or G-2 for the extra money. If all I did was wildlife photography maybe I would upgrade to Canon, but not G-2.

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May 10, 2019 22:02:12   #
Patsworld Loc: Idaho
 
May I ask, are you using a Nikon or Canon? I purchased the lens, waiting for it to arrive. Heard it works very well with a Nikon but have not heard how it fares with Canon which is what I use.

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May 10, 2019 23:09:49   #
Doc Barry Loc: Huntsville, Alabama USA
 
ggab wrote:
It only took you 30 minutes or so to calibrate via the Tap in console?
You are my new hero!
I gave up after an hour of switching back and forth. Please post the process you used!

The Tap in Console is great for updating firmware and customizing the VC.


The TAP-IN Console allows one to calibrate for three distances and up to 8 zoom positions, i.e., 24 measurements are required. After mounting my D810 with the SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 lens on a very sturdy tripod, I located the larger FoCal target I have about 3.5m from the lens. The target was mounted on a second tripod. I then allowed the FoCal program to find the best AF Tune value for each zoom position. I selected 150, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400, 500, and 600mm for the focal lengths. The AF Tune values were recorded on a table I have on a clipboard. Next I moved the target to about 10m and repeated the process. And finally, I disconnected the FoCal from the camera and carefully aimed the camera at a brick wall on a rather distant building using 600mm focal length. This is now the time consuming part. First set the AF Tune to zero and let the camera autofocus (use a remote to control the camera of course). Now for each zoom position, take a photo, adjust the AF Tune and autofocus; repeat until the image is sharpest. Typically, I took 3-4 AF Tunes per zoom. I am "good" at it since I had already calibrated by collection of Nikon lenses. I admit that the FoCal really reduced the measurement time for the first two distances, but even doing it the "hard way" shouldn't take but about an hour. Once you have the data, then use TAP-IN to program the lens. Also, the AF Tune in the camera should be set to zero.

I note that in playing with the FoCal to find the "optimum" distance to locate the target for calibrating my Nikon zoom lenses, I learned that to get best overall image quality over zoom and distances for the Nikon lenses required hunting for this "optimum." Nikon has but a single AF Tune value per lens and they expect that the equation programmed in the lenses solves the problem. For the most part, I found this to be true once I located the best overall AF Tune value.

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May 10, 2019 23:42:17   #
ggab Loc: ?
 
Doc Barry wrote:
The TAP-IN Console allows one to calibrate for three distances and up to 8 zoom positions, i.e., 24 measurements are required. After mounting my D810 with the SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 lens on a very sturdy tripod, I located the larger FoCal target I have about 3.5m from the lens. The target was mounted on a second tripod. I then allowed the FoCal program to find the best AF Tune value for each zoom position. I selected 150, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400, 500, and 600mm for the focal lengths. The AF Tune values were recorded on a table I have on a clipboard. Next I moved the target to about 10m and repeated the process. And finally, I disconnected the FoCal from the camera and carefully aimed the camera at a brick wall on a rather distant building using 600mm focal length. This is now the time consuming part. First set the AF Tune to zero and let the camera autofocus (use a remote to control the camera of course). Now for each zoom position, take a photo, adjust the AF Tune and autofocus; repeat until the image is sharpest. Typically, I took 3-4 AF Tunes per zoom. I am "good" at it since I had already calibrated by collection of Nikon lenses. I admit that the FoCal really reduced the measurement time for the first two distances, but even doing it the "hard way" shouldn't take but about an hour. Once you have the data, then use TAP-IN to program the lens. Also, the AF Tune in the camera should be set to zero.

I note that in playing with the FoCal to find the "optimum" distance to locate the target for calibrating my Nikon zoom lenses, I learned that to get best overall image quality over zoom and distances for the Nikon lenses required hunting for this "optimum." Nikon has but a single AF Tune value per lens and they expect that the equation programmed in the lenses solves the problem. For the most part, I found this to be true once I located the best overall AF Tune value.
The TAP-IN Console allows one to calibrate for thr... (show quote)


Thank you.
Do you find that after going through all of that, if you put the lens on another camera things are out of sync since the Tap-in Console only allows you to calibrate for one camera?

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May 11, 2019 01:21:24   #
Doc Barry Loc: Huntsville, Alabama USA
 
ggab wrote:
Thank you.
Do you find that after going through all of that, if you put the lens on another camera things are out of sync since the Tap-in Console only allows you to calibrate for one camera?


Glad you asked. I also have a D7000 that I use the lens on also. Crazy long reach at 900mm (tripod a must). Since the lens is now calibrated for the D810 at AF Tune equal zero, I simply set the zoom for about 400mm and looked at a brick wall say a hundred meters or longer distant. Autofocus, take image. Repeat at several other AF Tune values taking a photo at each. Pick or interpolate the AF Tune values to select the best value yielding the sharpest image. I take a final photo at the selected AF Tune value to verify I got it correct. I also calibrated all of my Nikon lenses for the D7000 using the FoCal system. Frankly, the FoCal does a "bit better" job of selecting the best AF Tune value that I do. Good news is once the G2 is calibrated, it can be used on other bodies with just the simple tuning.

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May 11, 2019 07:23:54   #
ggab Loc: ?
 
Doc Barry wrote:
Glad you asked. I also have a D7000 that I use the lens on also. Crazy long reach at 900mm (tripod a must). Since the lens is now calibrated for the D810 at AF Tune equal zero, I simply set the zoom for about 400mm and looked at a brick wall say a hundred meters or longer distant. Autofocus, take image. Repeat at several other AF Tune values taking a photo at each. Pick or interpolate the AF Tune values to select the best value yielding the sharpest image. I take a final photo at the selected AF Tune value to verify I got it correct. I also calibrated all of my Nikon lenses for the D7000 using the FoCal system. Frankly, the FoCal does a "bit better" job of selecting the best AF Tune value that I do. Good news is once the G2 is calibrated, it can be used on other bodies with just the simple tuning.
Glad you asked. img src="https://static.uglyhedg... (show quote)


Whew!!!!
I just use Focal for each of my cameras and lenses.
You are certainly more committed than I am.

Thanks

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May 11, 2019 16:42:01   #
DHas
 
Last year I bought a used Tamron 150-600 G1 on Ebay for $670 to use with my Canon 80D. Unfortunately its firmware was written before the 80D came out it locked up the camera. Couldn't even turn it off until I removed the battery. Contacting Tamron they offered to update the firmware and clean the lens at no cost. I only had to pay $50 for one-way shipping and insurance. Two weeks later the lens returned and it worked perfectly. I was very impressed with Tamron's customer service.

Since then I purchased a Sony A7Riii and an adapter for the lens. On both cameras I am pleased with the G1's performance. In full daylight the AF was very accurate and if I hold the camera button halfway it will lock-in the image momentarily which minimizes random motion effects. However most of the time I'm using it for night-time astrophotography which requires touchy manual focusing using the in-camera magnification tool. Also helps to use a gimbel. It's not as good as a telescope, but impressive results for the investment. Note the attached moon shot blown-up from the Sony.



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