Why such a differnece in color (Page 2): You sure about that? Chg's comment seems to suggest the opposite. Using Jeffery's Exif Viewer I see the WB is cloudy on the first (warmer)...

JD750 Loc: SoCal

Gene51 wrote:

First image is Auto 0 White Balance, and second is Cloudy White Balance.

You sure about that? Chg's comment seems to suggest the opposite.

Using Jeffery's Exif Viewer I see the WB is cloudy on the first (warmer) image which is how I would expect it.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

We can see the whiter bridge was shot with 2 stops more exposure (6 sec vs 3 sec). I don't have a historam so I can't see, but the second might well have overblown the bridge. Then again, white balance is another contributing factor, it says manual. If that was the setting for incandescent lighting, it tries to reduce the yellow tint of incandescent bulb lighting.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

PHRubin wrote:

We can see the whiter bridge was shot with 2 stops more exposure (6 sec vs 3 sec). I don't have a historam so I can't see, but the second might well have overblown the bridge. Then again, white balance is another contributing factor, it says manual. If that was the setting for incandescent lighting, it tries to reduce the yellow tint of incandescent bulb lighting.

Higher exposure tends to wash out colors but the primary reason for the difference in color is the WB settings were different on the two shots.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

CHG_CANON wrote:

Simply look at the white balance setting. The "yellow" image reports manual white balance under control of the photographer. The "white" is auto white balance under control of the camera.

The camera wins or loses, depending on which you prefer.

pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY

dyximan wrote:

Would someone explain why these 2 photos taken only moments apart are have such a differnece in color, Metering Mode, or Area metered? or?
Thank you

The second is 6 sec shutter the first is 3! Look at your EXIF data, the answer is ther.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

PHRubin wrote:

We can see the whiter bridge was shot with 2 stops more exposure (6 sec vs 3 sec). I don't have a historam so I can't see, but the second might well have overblown the bridge. Then again, white balance is another contributing factor, it says manual. If that was the setting for incandescent lighting, it tries to reduce the yellow tint of incandescent bulb lighting.

My apologies for not reading the EXIF data. At these exposure times, flicker cannot be an issue nor a contributor to the problem. Just as a comment, though, 6 seconds vs. 3 seconds is only one stop difference in exposure, not 2 stops.

Blair Shaw Jr Loc: Dunnellon,Florida

This is so fascinating to me and I love how you guys jump in there and fix questions like this one instantly . I am so glad I get to learn so much from so many gifted souls. This community Rocks!

Thanks again to all of you who make up this tight association of accomplished pros and hobbyists. I will be a follower for life.

Jimbo

BebuLamar

larryepage wrote:

My apologies for not reading the EXIF data. At these exposure times, flicker cannot be an issue nor a contributor to the problem. Just as a comment, though, 6 seconds vs. 3 seconds is only one stop difference in exposure, not 2 stops.

Flicker can be the problem. If the meter see the flicker before taking the shot it would set the exposure accordingly and the light can change during the exposure without the camera knowing.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

BebuLamar wrote:

Flicker can be the problem. If the meter see the flicker before taking the shot it would set the exposure accordingly and the light can change during the exposure without the camera knowing.

Meter readings taken by the camera are averaged values over a period of time. Flicker is a phenomenon that occurs within one half of a power cycle...that is 1/120 of a second in the United States and a number of other countries, 1/100 of a second in most European countries. And it's not for that entire duration...just a portion of it. Once exposures reach 1/15 of a second, the maximum possible impact is 1/4 stop. As exposure increases and more and more full cycles are included in the exposure, impact is further reduced.

If you watch the display of exposure parameters change as you pan your camera around, you will note that the sampling time before readings update is much slower than even that. So no...I would not expect that flicker would have any meaningfully significant on meter readings. It is not mentioned in any of my three manuals where flicker reduction is discussed, and I have not read any credible articles making the claim that it is a metering issue. It is an exposure issue.

Tracy B. Loc: Indiana

Either way, I like both of the photographs.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

dyximan wrote:

Ok thank you all for the information, which now leads me to another question, What does the Cloudy white balance do or not do that the Auto 0 does or does not do. would useing a 18% grey card make a differnece in either setting, or do I ust need to learn more about the white balance settings Or More in general?

Not sure a card would help much in this situation. The light hitting your card would be the ambient light near where you are standing. The light on your subject is likely much different being a few miles away. Shoot RAW and adjust in post.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Must be a trick question.

Kuzano

So now a question this poses for me is How Does the bridge actually look to the eye (if you recall)

The flicker feature is interesting if it actually created one of these images.

ecurb1105

dyximan wrote:

Would someone explain why these 2 photos taken only moments apart are have such a differnece in color, Metering Mode, or Area metered? or?
Thank you

Exposure. Bottom image has washed out colors due to over exposure. WB stayed the same.

BebuLamar

larryepage wrote:

Meter readings taken by the camera are averaged va... (show quote)

I believe the camera makes the meter reading much faster than the display update rate. I have instances when the flicker happened just before the exposure and cause the camera to underexpose.