odellvic

I have attached two exact pictures of a horse I took today with different settings. It was a bringt sunny day. I shout the one with brilliant colors at 1/320, 100 and 5.6 on A mode. The more dull one I shot on sport mode because many of the horses were moving and it was sunny and I thought that might give me a fast shutter. The specs were 1/1250, 400 and 5.6. Questions-why would iso on sport mode on a sunny day go to 400? and why would the slower shutter of 1/320 be more brilliant when I am letting in more light than the 1/1250 which appears brighter but mot as brilliant. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

sport mode faster shutter


A mode more brilliant

Danilo Loc: Las Vegas

In Sports mode, your camera attempts to give you the highest possible shutter speed, at the expense of everything else, including ISO. Had the ISO stayed at 100, your shutter speed would be down to about 1/250th to 1/300th sec.
In Brilliant mode, your camera intensifies the identifiable colors at the expense of accuracy. IMHO, this photo is not the best one, and I, personally, would reject it.
Good questions! Never stop asking!

odellvic

Thanks for uour response. The more colorful one was just shot on aperture mode. Not brilliant. What would be the best settings for today's shoot if I were on Manual?

odellvic

IMHO ?

susie-q-tip Loc: Mississippi/Texas

IMHO - "In my humble opinion"

birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania

The ISO went to 400 becasue it had to to give you the correct exposure at the higher shutter speed. With a given amount of light on the subject, if you change one of the three factors that comprise exposure, ISO, Shutter Speed and F/stop, at least one of the others must change also.

As to why one setting would be more vivid that another may have to do with some of the presets that are associated with them. The "Landscape" setting usually has the green saturation increased. The "Portrait" setting usually has sharpening reduced. "Sports" obviously has a higher shutter speed associated with it but may also have the color values set to a more neutral setting. With the "A" mode, and I'm not sure on your camera whether that is "Automatic" or "Aperture Priority", there may be different color temperature and or color saturation settings associated with it which would result in very different looking photos. Sometimes these settings are customizable, sometimes not.

Your camera manual should have a chart that tells you what those various scene (Landscapes, Portraits, Sports, flowers, etc) settings have for their saturation, sharpening, color temp etc., and whether they can be changed or not.

Hope that helps!

odellvic

Thanks. I was on aperture only but I see that my camera (Nikon 5100) was set to "vivid" and perhaps it should be at "standard" or "neutral". Thanks for the help.

robert-photos Loc: Chicago

Take a look at the EXIF data (all of it..not just what you have related to us) of each photo, compare and note the differences. You will find your answer. :thumbup:

rlaugh Loc: Michigan & Florida

I agree with Danilo..your sports mode colors are much more accurate then the other shot!

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

So apparently sports mode took over all parameters and over-rode the "vivid" setting and went back to normal.

The goal of the camera artificial intelligence in using a higher ISO in sports mode is so the shutter speed can increase to stop action.

Personally, I use ISO 200 outdoors virtually all the time anyway, even in full daylight, so I can counteract people's random small movements (humans never really stand still - we always have a subtle "dance" that our bodies do to stay balanced and upright - plus nervous fidgeting around), tree leaves blowing slightly and blurring, and even grass moving.

This higher ISO typically allows my shutter speed to move up from the 1/30 to 1/250 range to the 1/125 to 1/750 range unless I use fill flash which demands 1/250 sync anyway. Higher non-flash shutter speed caused by boosted ISO is also beneficial for eliminating closed eyes in group shots too. I can't tell you when I last shot a group picture with one person's eyes closed.

If I was trying for something like a milky flowing river or waterfall effect I would slow the ISO back down, of course, so shutter speed could come back down too. Or when shooting action, I would use ISO 400 or maybe even ISO 800, 1600, or 3200 because I have those options on a Sony with no objectionable gain noise.

Because my camera has extremely low ISO boost noise (Sony Alpha 55) I also typically use ISO 400 and frequently ISO 800 indoors in non-action situations (I caught that helpful hint by accident in a Gary Fong diffuser video clip on YouTube) - even when using flash. This allows a smaller aperture whenever desired and/or higher shutter when not using flash.

Even when using flash, higher ISO shots require less flash power to accomplish the same exposure when using TTL metering. That extends your battery life, extends your perceived flash range for larger groups, and will reduce fill flash negative effects on a smaller or close subject.

As for vivid color, I personally prefer to capture overly vivid color and reduce saturation in post editing to achieve a more normal level, than to start with normal level and have the desire to pump it up slightly. That's just me. I also prefer to have too much of everything in audio and use an equalizer to reduce certain frequencies rather than boost things to compensate.

twowindsbear

Which photo more accurately records the colors of the original scene? Your settings for the first shot should be OK for horses in their pasture while they are grazing & 'frolicking' and such. When - if - you go to the race track, then try the sports mode.

wteffey Loc: Ocala, FL USA

Because I process all my photos (at least the ones anyone will ever see) through Elements, I like to minimize the in-camera processing. I have found it is easier to produce good results with minimally processed images than it is to undo something the camera has already over processed. With Pentax, factory defaults seem to be best. In RAW, of course, no processing is done in-camera.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

You simply have to check the 'store original' when uploading videos so we can see the exif information. Send the uncropped version with no editing so that the exif info wont be altered. This will help to determine the picture style settings, etc.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Bingo. Vivid makes a huge difference. So you're shooting in jpg and the picture styles will make a big difference. Basicly the camera is doing some 'in camera' processing. This is good for people that don't like to post process images and may want to just print or email them right away.

alann Loc: Virginia

What the heck is "Brilliant mode"?