Last February, Jim Quist posted a message about using a Pringles can to make a close up flash adapter. It's taken me this long to remember to get it done & tried. The 1st shot is my setup. The lens is a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro on my Alpha 850. The 2nd shot is from about 10". I'll have to try it with my 180 f/3.5 macro.
Your DIY yielded a great result. Guess I gotta go get some Pringles (any excuse is better than none!)
I wonder what is the advantage vs simply using the flash as is?
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
nicksr1125 wrote:
Last February, Jim Quist posted a message about using a Pringles can to make a close up flash adapter. It's taken me this long to remember to get it done & tried. The 1st shot is my setup. The lens is a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro on my Alpha 850. The 2nd shot is from about 10". I'll have to try it with my 180 f/3.5 macro.
Jewelry in particular benefit from large, diffuse light, and almost non-existent shadows. I have no examples to share, but using a light tent will likely show the jewelry better. The snoot should work well for other subjects, but I still prefer to use a large bounce surface and remotely triggered flash.
This was a demo of an artificial flower, with a 9x14 bounce surface, held about 4-5 inches from the flower. In this case the light was directional, because it complemented the contours of the flower, while at the same time enhancing the contrast to better show the texture.
Shooting highly reflective subjects like jewelry benefit from all-encompassing soft light a tent provides.
Most of what I'm shooting is scale models. The main problem is getting light evenly around the model. A regular flash unit puts the light above the model so there are a lot of deep shadows underneath. A ringlight does a lot better but, I wanted to try Jim's idea. I don't have the luxury of using a light box as I'm shooting at a monthly club meeting and the models are sitting on a table with not much room to set one up. We have a regional contest in February every year where I shoot 400-500 models in about 3 hours.
nicksr1125 wrote:
Most of what I'm shooting is scale models. The main problem is getting light evenly around the model. A regular flash unit puts the light above the model so there are a lot of deep shadows underneath. A ringlight does a lot better but, I wanted to try Jim's idea. I don't have the luxury of using a light box as I'm shooting at a monthly club meeting and the models are sitting on a table with not much room to set one up. We have a regional contest in February every year where I shoot 400-500 models in about 3 hours.
Most of what I'm shooting is scale models. The ma... (
show quote)
It would be interesting to see some of the shots of the next session using this setup.
Longshadow wrote:
It would be interesting to see some of the shots of the next session using this setup.
Our next meeting will be 14 April. I'll try to remember & post a couple shots.
I'm glad you put it into practice and like it. You can add an additional cap for more diffusion, or remove the cap for brighter light. You can also use it with color plastic filters.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
nicksr1125 wrote:
Most of what I'm shooting is scale models. The main problem is getting light evenly around the model. A regular flash unit puts the light above the model so there are a lot of deep shadows underneath. A ringlight does a lot better but, I wanted to try Jim's idea. I don't have the luxury of using a light box as I'm shooting at a monthly club meeting and the models are sitting on a table with not much room to set one up. We have a regional contest in February every year where I shoot 400-500 models in about 3 hours.
Most of what I'm shooting is scale models. The ma... (
show quote)
I agree, a tent would not work for you. Scale models are delicate and the owners are not going to take too lightly to handling them, putting them in a light tent, etc. A ringlight will give you unflattering flat yet contrasty light.
I think the key will be to get a big light source -
and get it off camera and as close to the subject as possible. Shadows are ok as long as they are soft and under your control. When you mount a flash on the camera, even with a snoot, you have little control over the quality of the light and shadow. These images were done with a DIY version of a Rogue Flash Bender and an off camera flash.
Clever! I used to use a Pringles can to store spaghetti. It was getting old, so I bought a new one. The new can is shorter. : ( Same price, fewer Pringles. I bought a regular spaghetti storage container.
nicksr1125 wrote:
Last February, Jim Quist posted a message about using a Pringles can to make a close up flash adapter. It's taken me this long to remember to get it done & tried. The 1st shot is my setup. The lens is a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro on my Alpha 850. The 2nd shot is from about 10". I'll have to try it with my 180 f/3.5 macro.
I am sorry to say that, the light is too concentrated and creates harsh shadow. It's no different using the flash with out the 'pringles' tube. good idea but won't work!
All the pictures look great. But, at least paint the can black. It's hurting the dignity of your camera.
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