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Mar 2, 2019 18:49:02   #
daw Loc: Sydney Australia
 
So yesterday I had my first 'sports shoot' outing with my new Canon 80d, shooting my daughter competing at a gymnastics comp.

I chose to shoot in full M - I kept aperture at f5.6. As the shoot was indoors, I chose the 'preset' WB for fluorescent, but I found it difficult to get; stable exposure, image clarity and enough 'action freeze'.

There was a perpetual trade-off between the shutter and ISO balance

In trying for the highest shutter speed I could to reduce blur, I found as I had to push the ISO up, the image started to get grainy but I got a good 'freeze' on motion.

This pic has ISO AT 3200 and shutter at 1/400 - ok exposure but still some motion blur.

Any advice on whether this could be improved? Should I just opt for Tv and auto ISO, and what of the preset white balance - should I just stick with AWB? (something I'm still trying to get my head around)


(Download)

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Mar 2, 2019 19:28:46   #
Brokenland
 
It would be helpful if you listed what lens used in this shot.

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Mar 2, 2019 19:30:17   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
If the gym uses fluorescent lighting, I would use the fluorescent sync feature of the camera to insure proper exposure. It is hard to get freeze action, large depth of field, and eliminate noise, all at the same time. The image does seem a little soft to me.

The mode was shutter speed preferred.
You had the aperture at 4 which is wide open and minimum depth of field.
Shutter was 1/400. If you see some action motion then you can’t go slower without making it worse. I didn't see motion blur.
ISO is whatever needed with those settings, here 3200. I did see some noise.

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Mar 2, 2019 19:31:05   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
PHRubin wrote:
If the gym uses fluorescent lighting, I would use the fluorescent sync feature of the camera to insure proper exposure. It is hard to get freeze action, large depth of field, and eliminate noise, all at the same time. The image does seem a little soft to me.

The mode was shutter speed preferred, not M.
You had the aperture at 4 which is wide open and minimum depth of field, not 5.6.
Shutter was 1/400. If you see some action motion then you can’t go slower without making it worse. I didn't see motion blur.
ISO is whatever needed with those settings, here 3200. I did see some noise.
If the gym uses fluorescent lighting, I would use ... (show quote)

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Mar 2, 2019 19:33:36   #
Grahame Loc: Fiji
 
From the Exif: Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM, Shot at 70 mm (shot wide open). Manual exposure, 1/395 sec, f/4, ISO 3200.

You are shooting at the extremities and without using a faster lens there's not many options.

It looks to me that this is a SOOC image and some basic work to correct the WB (warm it up), increase the exposure slightly, lift the shadows and some local sharpening makes a 'big' difference.

As for the motion blur, in my opinion it adds to the image.

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Mar 2, 2019 19:44:18   #
LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America
 
Indoor school sports are typically poorly lit.

My first advice is don’t freak out about using higher ISO as some hear do, the main thing is to get the shot.

The second thing I would suggest is shooting wide open ... lowest f number ... of you have another f stop available. F 2.8 is preferable, but if f5.6 is as wide as you have it’s as wide as you have.

Next, I’d try 1/1,000 as a shutter speed or 1/500 and auto ISO.

Lastly, and I know you are just starting, but developing hand held skills will do wonders.

My technique is hold the camera with my R hand and balance the lens with my L. Point my L foot at the subject and keep my R foot about a sep behind and to the R at something as close to a right angle as is comfortable ... then bend the front leg slightly.

This will give you stability with minimal stress.

Next, be sure you press the shutter with just the pad of your finger, a common mistake of beginners is to squeeze the whole hand.

Last I’d to either breathe in or out just before you fire the shutter. To demonstrate this, point at something across the room and stare straight down that line and watch how much your finger bobs as you breathe. Then don’t breathe for a split second and see how it stabilizes.

The moral of the story is that vibration you don’t put into the system is vibration that the system doesn’t have to contend with.

I know that sounds like s lot, but it actually becomes second nature and can be quite comfortable once mastered.

I hope this helps.

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Mar 2, 2019 19:48:13   #
boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
 
daw wrote:
So yesterday I had my first 'sports shoot' outing with my new Canon 80d, shooting my daughter competing at a gymnastics comp.

I chose to shoot in full M - I kept aperture at f5.6. As the shoot was indoors, I chose the 'preset' WB for fluorescent, but I found it difficult to get; stable exposure, image clarity and enough 'action freeze'.

There was a perpetual trade-off between the shutter and ISO balance

In trying for the highest shutter speed I could to reduce blur, I found as I had to push the ISO up, the image started to get grainy but I got a good 'freeze' on motion.

This pic has ISO AT 3200 and shutter at 1/400 - ok exposure but still some motion blur.

Any advice on whether this could be improved? Should I just opt for Tv and auto ISO, and what of the preset white balance - should I just stick with AWB? (something I'm still trying to get my head around)
So yesterday I had my first 'sports shoot' outing ... (show quote)


This shot according to EXIF data was shot at F-4. When it comes down to it you need a faster lens. A 2.8 lens would allow faster shutter speed and/or lower ISO or a combination of both.

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Mar 2, 2019 19:56:43   #
daw Loc: Sydney Australia
 
Sorry - Canon EF70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II USM - shooting in AI Servo mode

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Mar 2, 2019 19:59:27   #
daw Loc: Sydney Australia
 
thanks Graeme - what is an 'SOOC image'?

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Mar 2, 2019 20:01:01   #
daw Loc: Sydney Australia
 
Thanks LLW - some great tips I will put into action!

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Mar 2, 2019 20:04:26   #
LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America
 
daw wrote:
Thanks LLW - some great tips I will put into action!


YVW. Also use AF settings where the camera will follow focus a moving object. Not sure what CANON calls it.

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Mar 2, 2019 20:06:44   #
Bipod
 
daw wrote:
So yesterday I had my first 'sports shoot' outing with my new Canon 80d, shooting my daughter competing at a gymnastics comp.

I chose to shoot in full M - I kept aperture at f5.6. As the shoot was indoors, I chose the 'preset' WB for fluorescent, but I found it difficult to get; stable exposure, image clarity and enough 'action freeze'.

There was a perpetual trade-off between the shutter and ISO balance

In trying for the highest shutter speed I could to reduce blur, I found as I had to push the ISO up, the image started to get grainy but I got a good 'freeze' on motion.

This pic has ISO AT 3200 and shutter at 1/400 - ok exposure but still some motion blur.

Any advice on whether this could be improved? Should I just opt for Tv and auto ISO, and what of the preset white balance - should I just stick with AWB? (something I'm still trying to get my head around)
So yesterday I had my first 'sports shoot' outing ... (show quote)


That photo isn't bad at all--just a tad dark, perhaps--which you can fix in processing.
It's a "normal" exposure, but since the subject is the darkest part, it would look better if it
were a little lighter overall. The contrast is necessary to make the subject stand out.
You might even try lightening it until the white background loses some detail.

The image also has a bluish cast -- perhaps from the fluorescent lights and perhaps
from the blue colored floor. You could try making it a bit more reddish, which might
also improve the skin tones. (Don't over-do it.)

The motion blur in the feet isn't necessarily a defect, since the faces and torsos are fairly sharp.
It depends on what you want. I lot of photographers try to get motion blur in action scenes.

You were very lucky not to have a distracting background--usually this kind of shot does.

When shooting indoors with available light, some noise (or grain, if shooting film) is to be
expected. But if noise really bothers you, there's always film -- grain sticks to the highlights.

A faster lens would definitely help--but might be expensive. And its possible that the largest
aperture on any lens might not be acceptably sharp (if you get rid of all the motion blur and
try to produce a pristine "stop action" photo). Again, it depends on what you want.

But it would help if you displayed ir right-side-up.

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Mar 2, 2019 20:30:03   #
Grahame Loc: Fiji
 
daw wrote:
thanks Graeme - what is an 'SOOC image'?


SOOC = Straight out of camera.

A term commonly used for an image that has had no 'additional' post processing to 'improve' it to its full potential.

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Mar 2, 2019 20:31:29   #
LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America
 
daw wrote:
thanks Graeme - what is an 'SOOC image'?


Straight Out Of Camera I assume.

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Mar 2, 2019 21:59:12   #
daw Loc: Sydney Australia
 
Thanks bipod great feedback - I think you are right on the bit of motion blur - the more I look at the image the more I think it adds to the overall composition. Maybe a full freeze of action would be too sterile

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