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Do you have your highlight alert active and the dials set to be more logical?
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Feb 18, 2019 13:13:51   #
Vietnam Vet
 
rpavich wrote:
I don't have blinkies and I only have these controls; a shutter button, a film winder, a film advance lever, an f/top ring, and a shutter speed dial.


If it didn't cost so much per image I would take out my Hasselblads and begin using them again.

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Feb 18, 2019 13:17:36   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
Vietnam Vet wrote:
If it didn't cost so much per image I would take out my Hasselblads and begin using them again.


It depends on a lot of things. Film isn't that bad cost wise, and medium format is even cheaper than 35mm per roll.

Add to that that you don't shot-gun 500 images to get one and it's even better.

Where I have my color developing done it starts at $3.49 per roll for MF.

with scans it's $6.99 per roll but it's more fun to shoot B&W and develop and print myself.

With Digi....half the fun and creativity is missing...the Darkroom.

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Feb 19, 2019 01:21:51   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
John Gerlach wrote:
Two things that continually amaze me when teaching photography is how badly clients have their cameras set up. So I am wondering how many here are taking advantage of some simple camera settings to help them shoot photos. First, I have no idea why this is so, but it seems all the cameras I look at require the user to active the cameras highlight alert to show blinkies in an image that is shot during playback. Why would you not want to have the highlight alert active? It seems to me the factory default should have the highlight alert on, and not have to be turned on by the user. I have been using the highlight alert exclusively for about four years now - more than a million shots - and I don't have any exposure problems. It is quick and easy and I can actually see the "blinkies" a lot easier than a little bit of rightmost data on the histogram. Second, for some reason cameras are set up to require the user to turn the shutter or aperture dial to the left (if using the top of the dial) to add light and move the histogram data to the right. It doesn't seem logical to have to turn dials left to move histogram data right. A client physicist pointed out this to me about 15 years ago and then I knew why I would use one of the custom settings on my cameras called "Reverse dial direction TV/AV." But it also works on manual. On all of my cameras, turning the exposure dials to the right adds light and moves the histogram data more right too. It is so logical to do it that way. I do have clients who insist they have learned to turn their dials left, to add light and move the histogram data right. But, when I observe them, I notice they are just as likely to turn the dial the wrong way as the right way, so I would point out that perhaps they should switch because it is not as intuitive as they assume it is for them.
Two things that continually amaze me when teaching... (show quote)

I never had the blinkies active on any of my cameras. I do however rely on the histogram, if there is a situation that I have to check and no, it never felt awkward to me!

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Feb 19, 2019 05:10:01   #
cmc4214 Loc: S.W. Pennsylvania
 
John Gerlach wrote:
Actually, I wish this exposure stuff would be more logical so I can get on to more interesting parts of teaching photography - like focus stacking, using flash in the landscape, HDR, wildlife photography, advanced focus methods such as setting AF parameters, AF microadjusting, and combinations of all these. I have to spend too much time on the basics and that takes time away from far more creative stuff.


Perhaps a "basic" course should be taught first

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Feb 19, 2019 05:32:52   #
BebuLamar
 
John Gerlach wrote:
Actually, I wish this exposure stuff would be more logical so I can get on to more interesting parts of teaching photography - like focus stacking, using flash in the landscape, HDR, wildlife photography, advanced focus methods such as setting AF parameters, AF microadjusting, and combinations of all these. I have to spend too much time on the basics and that takes time away from far more creative stuff.


You meant that the camera designers were not logical. Perhaps they do but in a different way of thinking. I turn the dials to the right for larger numbers. For example if the lens is at f/2.8 now and I want f/8 I turn it to the right. Similarly if the shutter speed is 1/500 and I want 1/125 I turn it to the left.
Now people would think that the fact that older Nikon cameras exposure meter has the + sign on the left of 0 is illogical. But that helps me turn the aperture ring the correct way.

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Feb 19, 2019 05:43:17   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
John Gerlach wrote:
Two things that continually amaze me when teaching photography is how badly clients have their cameras set up. So I am wondering how many here are taking advantage of some simple camera settings to help them shoot photos. First, I have no idea why this is so, but it seems all the cameras I look at require the user to active the cameras highlight alert to show blinkies in an image that is shot during playback. Why would you not want to have the highlight alert active? It seems to me the factory default should have the highlight alert on, and not have to be turned on by the user. I have been using the highlight alert exclusively for about four years now - more than a million shots - and I don't have any exposure problems. It is quick and easy and I can actually see the "blinkies" a lot easier than a little bit of rightmost data on the histogram. Second, for some reason cameras are set up to require the user to turn the shutter or aperture dial to the left (if using the top of the dial) to add light and move the histogram data to the right. It doesn't seem logical to have to turn dials left to move histogram data right. A client physicist pointed out this to me about 15 years ago and then I knew why I would use one of the custom settings on my cameras called "Reverse dial direction TV/AV." But it also works on manual. On all of my cameras, turning the exposure dials to the right adds light and moves the histogram data more right too. It is so logical to do it that way. I do have clients who insist they have learned to turn their dials left, to add light and move the histogram data right. But, when I observe them, I notice they are just as likely to turn the dial the wrong way as the right way, so I would point out that perhaps they should switch because it is not as intuitive as they assume it is for them.
Two things that continually amaze me when teaching... (show quote)


Funny how good ideas often work universally. I've been doing the same thing since 2006. As far as those who regard us as heretics, "OFF WITH THEIR HEADS!!"

I teach this method the first day with newbies. And those who have mirrorless cameras get to adjust highlight-warning based exposure settings BEFORE they press the shutter. The other added benefit in some is the zebra stripe display, which is adjustable, along with focus peaking. I advocate to my students and mentorees to use every available tool to help nail the exposure. Yes, it can be a little distracting to evaluate composition as some have mentioned, but at the end of the day, you can learn how to ignore the distraction - or you can momentarily turn off the feature. Knowing if areas of your image are going to be irrevocably overexposed is important to evaluating composition, in any case.

If this was such a bad idea, you wouldn't think so after looking at how many cameras have the highlight warning feature and are now including highlight protected metering modes to help avoid overexposing highlights - especially in there higher end models.

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Feb 19, 2019 06:34:17   #
Tomfl101 Loc: Mount Airy, MD
 
I do primarily wedding photography and find the highlight alert indispensable for determining exposure for gowns and white shirts. It can be annoying however for post viewing when Overexposed areas are acceptable and proper, such as windows or skies in a background. I would like to have a one button cancel option that would turn it off and on instantly. This would be especially handy when doing a quick in-camera review with the client.

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Feb 19, 2019 06:46:09   #
joehel2 Loc: Cherry Hill, NJ
 
Great advice. Thanks for sharing it.

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Feb 19, 2019 06:53:26   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
Thanks. I'll give it a try.

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Feb 19, 2019 08:31:51   #
bajadreamer Loc: Baja California Sur
 
[quote=John Gerlach]Two things that continually amaze me when teaching photography is how badly clients have their cameras set up. So I am wondering how many here are taking advantage of some simple camera settings to help them shoot photos. First, I have no idea why this is so, but it seems all the

I agree with both points. My primary camera is a Canon 5D4; it is set up as you described. When I am looking at my LCD screen, rather than push the "magnify" button to check focus, I push the "info" button. By doing that the picture enlarges but the blinkies stay active.
I primarily shoot birds; the blinkies are invaluable to ID the white areas of the bird that are overexposed.
If I want the blinkies to go inactive, I simply press the "magnify" button; the picture does enlarge (which may or may not interfere with checking composition) but the blinkies disappear.

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Feb 19, 2019 08:48:19   #
CamB Loc: Juneau, Alaska
 
I use the histogram all the time but find blinkers annoying. Never, ever use them.
John Gerlach wrote:
Two things that continually amaze me when teaching photography is how badly clients have their cameras set up. So I am wondering how many here are taking advantage of some simple camera settings to help them shoot photos. First, I have no idea why this is so, but it seems all the cameras I look at require the user to active the cameras highlight alert to show blinkies in an image that is shot during playback. Why would you not want to have the highlight alert active? It seems to me the factory default should have the highlight alert on, and not have to be turned on by the user. I have been using the highlight alert exclusively for about four years now - more than a million shots - and I don't have any exposure problems. It is quick and easy and I can actually see the "blinkies" a lot easier than a little bit of rightmost data on the histogram. Second, for some reason cameras are set up to require the user to turn the shutter or aperture dial to the left (if using the top of the dial) to add light and move the histogram data to the right. It doesn't seem logical to have to turn dials left to move histogram data right. A client physicist pointed out this to me about 15 years ago and then I knew why I would use one of the custom settings on my cameras called "Reverse dial direction TV/AV." But it also works on manual. On all of my cameras, turning the exposure dials to the right adds light and moves the histogram data more right too. It is so logical to do it that way. I do have clients who insist they have learned to turn their dials left, to add light and move the histogram data right. But, when I observe them, I notice they are just as likely to turn the dial the wrong way as the right way, so I would point out that perhaps they should switch because it is not as intuitive as they assume it is for them.
Two things that continually amaze me when teaching... (show quote)

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Feb 19, 2019 09:02:55   #
CanonTom Loc: Birmingham
 
I totally agree! Need all the help I can get. Ignoring camera features that help me get better photos seems rather senseless to me.

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Feb 19, 2019 09:27:39   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
BebuLamar wrote:
I don't need the blinkies! I never use it.

Ignorance is bliss.

Highlight warnings are the easiest way to avoid blowing highlights. That also makes them the easiest and safest way to accomplish ETTR.

Since you never post any images we have no idea if you really understand exposure or overexposure at all.

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Feb 19, 2019 09:31:41   #
John Gerlach Loc: Island Park, Idaho
 
It seems we all have different thoughts about how cameras should be designed, and that is fine. I am surprised at how many push aside "blinkies" in favor of the histogram. I was once an avid histogram user and went with ETTR with fine results, but it is more tedious and does not work as well when you only have a small amount of highlight detail to show on the histogram. The blinkies are much easier to see and show where data is approaching overexposure in an image. Often the blinkies first appear in an area of the image where I plan to crop it out anyway, so then I know I don't need to worry about it. Also, somehow flashing highlights became known as overexposed areas, and I find with my Canon cameras 5D Mark IV and 1DX Mark II, that when shooting RAW I can actually add another 2/3 or more stops of light before forcing highlight tones together and thus losing detail. So to me, blinkies merely tell me where I am approaching overexposure, and not in fact overexposed unless I add more light. The one place blinkies don't work for me occurs when one color dominates the scene, such as an all red maple tree in autumn. One color channel does not generate blinkies on my Canon cameras when it is overexposed. Apparently, at least two color channels have to max out in one area to activate the flashing blinkies. In that case, I go with the RGB histogram and monitor the dominate color. I do wish I had color channel blinkies for the individual colors.

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Feb 19, 2019 09:37:27   #
John Gerlach Loc: Island Park, Idaho
 
selmslie wrote:
Ignorance is bliss.

Highlight warnings are the easiest way to avoid blowing highlights. That also makes them the easiest and safest way to accomplish ETTR.

Since you never post any images we have no idea if you really understand exposure or overexposure at all.


I have to agree with you totally. The highlight warnings are the easiest way to achieve fine exposures - quick, fast, and accurate!!! That is why I use them as I would rather spend more time shooting. Speaking of that, I am heading to the field now to hopefully photograph my first Whooping Crane in Indiana where some winter.

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