htbrown wrote:
Brass shim or even aluminum foil. A sheet of very fine (2000 grit) sandpaper on a flat surface. Dimple the foil with a needle or a pin, sand until a tiny hole appears. If you want to get fancy, you can get a no. 80 drill bit to make your hole. The smoother the edge of the hole the better.
Drill a hole in a camera body cap and glue or tape your new pinhole over it. You have a pinhole camera.
You can get fancier with how you mount the pinhole, but not much cheaper. You probably have everything you need but the sandpaper, which is the most expensive item on the list above. I can find fine sandpaper at my local hardware store. You might also find it at a store that caters to automobile bodywork.
Brass shim or even aluminum foil. A sheet of very... (
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Laser etched pinholes are available commercially.
The size of the pinhole is crucial for maximum sharpness. It depends on the distnace from the
pinhole to the film or sensor (which in turn depends on the format), and the distance to the subject.
FF and smaller cameas require really tiny pinholes. A #80 drill diameter is 0.0135 in (0.343 mm).
This is too large for FF. Watchmakers's drills go down to smaller sizes. For a Nikon F-mount,
#90 0,0087 (0.221) is about right. I tried #80 and it was very unsharp. The Stanford Pinhole
Calculator 3.0 gives the best values of any of the many calculators I've tried.
https://web.stanford.edu/~cpatton/phcalc3.htmTo get a truly sharp pinhole photo, you need to go to medium or (better) large format.
I have a Kodak Hawkeye Brownie (120 film) that I plan to covert to pinhole (in a way that
doesn't damage the camera an dis reversible).
Pinholes don't have a true front focal length. Instead, they have a hyperfocal distance: any
subject at this distance or further are the same as at "infinity". So most pinhole cameras are designed
for this infinity focus. (But If you plan to take only close-up picture --at less than the hyperforcal distance--
then a smaller pinhole should be used.)
The pinhole itself has only two characteristics: diameter and angle-of-coverage. Everything else--
hyperforcal distance, image diameter, angle-of-view--depends on both the pinhole diameter
and the pinhole-to-film distance.
For best results, the same care should be exercised in making a pinhole camera as in making a lens
camera.. Most of the defects one sees in pinhole photographs--distortion, vignetting, light leaks,
excessive unsharpness--are due to bad designs and/or shoddy construction.
Of course, if one is going for a "lomography" look, that's fine. But a lot of people have the wrong
idea about pinholes: that they create aberrations and distortion. In fact, pinholes are totally free of
aberrations and distortion -- far better in this respect than any lens.
The very best lenses sold by Nikon and Canon have more aberrations and more distoration than a pinhole.