shooting with a Nikon P900 using 2000mm, I start at ISO 100, f6.5, Shutter 1/320 to start. WB to daylight, and use manual focus to focus on the moon.
Beautiful photo. What camera and lens did you use? I plan to use my Nikon D810 and Tamron 150-600 lens the night of January 20th.
Peter LeesburgVA wrote:
Beautiful photo. What camera and lens did you use? I plan to use my Nikon D810 and Tamron 150-600 lens the night of January 20th.
He told you it was a Coolpix 900, a bridge camera with a fixed lens of 24-2000mm (35 equiv). It was at 2000 for this shot. It is all in the EXIF data if you went the extra step and downloaded it.
47greyfox
Loc: on the edge of the Colorado front range
jerryc41 wrote:
Good luck! Let's hope for a cloudless sky.
Jerry!! You haven't submitted a formal request yet?!?!
Cyberkinesis70 wrote:
This a one of many moonshots I took. It was done with a D3400 and the 70-300 kits lens. I used f11 1/125 and full 300 mm, full manual. It is cropped quite a bit to enlarge it. You might be better served with longer glass than mine. I would suggest taking a few shots of the moon before the 20th to test your equipment. From what I've read the blood moon will be long enough to bracket exposures. Your D3400 is perfectly capable of good pictures of the moon
Can’t wait to use my D3400’s and 70-300. Attached is “scary moon” shot handheld in August, 200mm.
I don't think the rule of 500 applies to moon shots because the moon moves more rapidly through the sky than do the stars. Milky way shotsusing he rule of 500 are typically taken with a fast wide angle lenses at ISO s ranging up to 6400 in order keep exposures short enough that the stars don't move too much during the exposure time
But just as daylight landscapes shot in full sun capture sunlight reflected off objects after the sun's light has passed once through our atmosphere, sunlight light reflected from the moon has also passed through our atmosphere once enroute to the lens. Exposures should be akin to those we use in daylight landscape shots.
The difference is that one photo (Milky Way) is usually taken with a wide-angle while the moon is usually shot with the longest telephoto in our quivers. Usually those longest telephotos are of inadequate focal length for the job they are being asked to do. Metering exposure is also very difficult The moon is a very small medium grey object in a sea of inky black. Unless done carefully, the metering area may include too much of the black surround, thus skewing the exposure toward a severely overexposed pure white blown out moon lacking in details and texture. Keep this in mind as you meter your exposure.
Thanks for reading my tome!
Cyberkinesis70 wrote:
This a one of many moonshots I took. It was done with a D3400 and the 70-300 kits lens. I used f11 1/125 and full 300 mm, full manual. It is cropped quite a bit to enlarge it. You might be better served with longer glass than mine. I would suggest taking a few shots of the moon before the 20th to test your equipment. From what I've read the blood moon will be long enough to bracket exposures. Your D3400 is perfectly capable of good pictures of the moon
Nice moonshot, great clarity.
jerryc41 wrote:
Good luck! Let's hope for a cloudless sky.
Me too.
Williamsport, PA had 5 clear days from Oct 31 through Jan 1 this year.
Also the wettest year in recorded history, first time we had to drain the pool regularly instead of add water.
I just use my telephoto lens with the camera/lens setup on a tripod and use a remote release. Then I take a photo, look at it and adjust (Bracket) with shutter speed and am set at ISO 200 usually. Start with 1/400th of a second stopped down 1 stop. (Don't know your lens).
This Blood moon will not be as bright as a normal full moon so this is a good starting point.
Best results are with a tripod and remote (Wireless or cable).
Blurryeyed wrote:
Typically I start at 200 ISO f/8 1/200th and make any necessary adjustments from there. I don't know why we are even thinking about long exposures. The below image was shot handheld at 1000 ISO f/5.6 1/1000th because I was not using a tripod.
With a full lunar eclipse there is very little light, unlike a full or partially lit moon. The fully eclipsed moon here was taken on a tripod at .5 seconds, f/6.3 and ISO 3200. At 400mm, f/6.3 was wide open and half a second is almost at the limit for "moon" trails {500 rule: 500/(focal length:400 x crop factor:2 = .625 seconds)}. I would have still wanted more light!
My last lunar pictures were with film, but I understand settings are similar. For normal lit moon, use daylight exposure. ISO 100 f16 1/100 second. Will need to to increase exposure as the eclipse progresses. Increased exposure is also needed as telephoto lens increases, I'm going with 300mm lens. Not being familiar with digital ISO, I don't know about the graininess, but to keep the shutter speed acceptable you might use a higher ISO. I think I will use ISO 200 f8 or f5.6 1/125 seconds for starters. No guarentee, but with digital cameras, one can view the image immediately and make adjustments. If one desires foreground, you might stop down some unless the foreground far enough away to be clear with the larger aperture. Have fun!
If it’s clear, I think I’ll try a few shots handheld with the 77D’s crazy high 25000 ISO during totality, and then use a tripod with solower ISO settings.
The temperature here in East TN is expected to be 18 degrees, so I’m conflicted with cautious thoughts about condensation when bringing the equipment inside. I am going to make sure I have large plastic bags to use after shooting when going back inside.
I may also experiment with using the 450D that has half the resolution but is more expendable.
Rogers wrote:
If it’s clear, I think I’ll try a few shots handheld with the 77D’s crazy high 25000 ISO during totality, and then use a tripod with solower ISO settings.
The temperature here in East TN is expected to be 18 degrees, so I’m conflicted with cautious thoughts about condensation when bringing the equipment inside. I am going to make sure I have large plastic bags to use after shooting when going back inside.
I may also experiment with using the 450D that has half the resolution but is more expendable.
If it’s clear, I think I’ll try a few shots handhe... (
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They are calling for 4 degrees tonite in NE Ohio without wind chill. It’s -2 this Sunday 10 am already. I think I”ll pass on this one.
ronpier wrote:
They are calling for 4 degrees tonite in NE Ohio without wind chill. It’s -2 this Sunday 10 am already. I think I”ll pass on this one.
Not far from NE Ohio, in NW PA, and I agree. I think I'll pass for this eclipse, maybe photograph the next one.
PhotogHobbyist wrote:
Not far from NE Ohio, in NW PA, and I agree. I think I'll pass for this eclipse, maybe photograph the next one.
Subzero IMO is too hard on gear and hands and fingers.
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