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Constant ETTR...
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Jan 10, 2019 12:19:54   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
gessman wrote:
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro that he shoots everything in Raw with +1.5 exposure comp because that's where white sits on the spectrum and therefore his whites are always spot on and very little is ever blown out. I haven't tried it yet but at first glance it would seem to have some merit. On one hand it sounds a little prerposterous to suggest that would be a valid approach but wouldn't that just be the same thing as ETTR? (Exposing To The Right) Anyone care to discuss this idea?
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro ... (show quote)


I shoot raw, but I don't apply a universal exposure comp to a matrix reading, if I recall the person who posted this claimed. I will use the camera's spot meter and add 1.5 stops to the measurement of highlights in which I wish to retain detail. What I do is ETTR, I am not sure what the other guy is doing. With his subject matter he may be able to get away with this approach, but I think narrowing the area that is read and basing exposure choices on that will probably yield more consistent results in ALL settings.

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Jan 11, 2019 01:37:05   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
Gene51 wrote:
I shoot raw, but I don't apply a universal exposure comp to a matrix reading, if I recall the person who posted this claimed. I will use the camera's spot meter and add 1.5 stops to the measurement of highlights in which I wish to retain detail. What I do is ETTR, I am not sure what the other guy is doing. With his subject matter he may be able to get away with this approach, but I think narrowing the area that is read and basing exposure choices on that will probably yield more consistent results in ALL settings.
I shoot raw, but I don't apply a universal exposur... (show quote)


Thanks for sharing your exposure technique here. It sounds like you wandered across the same comment. Did you happen to make a note of the source and who the people were who participated in the conversation. It's even more than barely possible that I totally misunderstood what was said. I'm flogging myself for not paying more attention to the article. If it comes to you where you saw it, would you please share that with me so I can go back and try to make more sense of it, if I can. I'm going to try to do some experimenting with this whole idea. Not sure I'll figure anything out but I'm going to give it a shot.

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Jan 11, 2019 01:39:32   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
Thanks to everyone who commented in this thread. Sorry I opened this thread so unsure of exactly what I was thinking about. Maybe Gene51 paid more attention to the article and can refer us back to it.

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Jan 11, 2019 01:46:36   #
Bipod
 
tinplater wrote:
Really appreciate your post, very informative. However I find your last sentence surprising. Why does it matter to you what experience and preferences others have? The point is to enjoy what you do and the way that you do it, not what a critic thinks of how you accomplished it.

Thanks for the kind feedback.

It's true people can go off and do their own thing--but only if they can get the
equipment and supplies they need. No company is going to make a camera
because you or I want it. It will get made only if millions of people want it.

This is a big change. I remember a UHH post from a woman who had a "4 x 5"
camera made for her -- including a photo of the (very beautiful) camera.

But most of today's digital cameas use big custom chips (ASICs): Canon calls
its DIGIC, Sony has BIONZ, and Nikon has EXPEED. The captial investment
required to create a new ASIC is tens of millions of dollars. Nobody's going
to make one unless they can sell thousands and thousands of cameras.

I own many cameras for which I can no longer buy film (either roll or sheet).
I cannot make film stock or film: it requiers large, specialized equipment with
very close tolearances. Fortunately, sales of B&W film are booming (though
you wouldn't knwo it from UHH).

But other then film and lenses, if necessary, it is possible to make everything else
one needs for traditional photography: camera, developer, stop, fixer, enlarger, and
paper. Moreover, mechanical and electro-mechanical cameras can be maintained
and repaired fairly easily.

Photography is inherently optical, but it's only eletrical, electronic or chemical if
you want it to be.

The price of using digital technology is total depencence on camera manufactuers,
printer manufactuers, computer manufacturers, and their supply chains. But another
part of the price is extreme complexity: believe me, firmware for an embedded system
is complex, and ASICs are microprocessors are unbelievably complex.

Currently, only three types of photographic (e.g, non-industrial, non-security) digital
cameras are being produced:
* DSLRs
* mirroless with a screen on the back
* mirrorless with a screen inside (EVF)

That's not a lot of choices. If people continue to be lead around by the nose by marketing,
the DSLR may go away. The only camearas with opical viewfinders anymore are DLSRs.
So if they go away, so do optical viewfinders.

We live in a time of reduced choices and diminishing expectations. This is covered up by
golly-gee-whiz computer gadgetry and half-baked automation and a paid cheering section.

If someone claimed to have a portrait-painting machine, people would laugh.
But an automatic portrait-taking camera seems possible to the some people:
AF, AE, AISO..... Yeah, you can take drivers license photos that way.

A photographer is an essential ingredient in photography. The more closely the photographer
controls the process, the better the result can be.

But what Joe Consumer wants is easy and convenient. And his Uncle Bob just
likes fancy gadgets. So that's the direction the industry is going.

Nobody now alive knows how to cast bronze as well as the Shang Dynasty did.
And in not too many years, nobody alive will know how to take a good fine
art photograph. And life will go...just as it would without good artists or good
musicians. But the US no longer leads the world in photography, as it
did in the 1920s though 1970s.

Americans think they are individualists...but they are now corporatists. They drink
Coke, eat Whoppers, smoke Camels...and think that it's all their idea. And now
the ads and paid influencers are telling them to shoot mirrorless...

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Jan 11, 2019 06:28:53   #
billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
 
gessman wrote:
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro that he shoots everything in Raw with +1.5 exposure comp because that's where white sits on the spectrum and therefore his whites are always spot on and very little is ever blown out. I haven't tried it yet but at first glance it would seem to have some merit. On one hand it sounds a little prerposterous to suggest that would be a valid approach but wouldn't that just be the same thing as ETTR? (Exposing To The Right) Anyone care to discuss this idea?
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro ... (show quote)


When I shoot white birds in flight (example would be Snowy Egret) and to get detail in the feathers I shoot Raw and underexpose by at least 1 to 3 stops to get feather detail. Anything over exposed would blow out all the detail.

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Jan 11, 2019 07:17:44   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
He might apply this technique in a controlled environment like a studio.

Under field conditions, however, he would have to consider both changing and unchanging variables affecting exposure, as a general rule.
gessman wrote:
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro that he shoots everything in Raw with +1.5 exposure comp because that's where white sits on the spectrum and therefore his whites are always spot on and very little is ever blown out. I haven't tried it yet but at first glance it would seem to have some merit. On one hand it sounds a little prerposterous to suggest that would be a valid approach but wouldn't that just be the same thing as ETTR? (Exposing To The Right) Anyone care to discuss this idea?
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro ... (show quote)

Reply
Jan 11, 2019 07:24:59   #
cameraf4 Loc: Delaware
 
srt101fan wrote:
As I understand it, it's not really a theory; it's simply applying the Zone System to digital photography. Spot meter the brightest part (which would then record as middle gray) and increase the exposure to place the bright area in the desired zone.


To me, this guy hits the nail on the head. The OP did not say what the "seasoned pro (salt? pepper?)" is metering on or if he is using spot metering. srt's reasoning is sound - meter only on white and place it where it should be in Ansel's Zone System.

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Jan 11, 2019 07:40:07   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
Not sure why you would constantly over exposure but I guess it would depend on what you are shooting and the metering method you are using. I can do as Gene states and spot meter on the brightest area I wish to retain data on in a scene and comfortably expose this area by slightly over 2 stops without losing data. This is based on calibration of my camera to my Sekonic meter using their software. But the key to me is that you are metering on the brightest area of highlights and the meter is looking to define that as 18 percent gray. If you did it using matrix metering of the whole scene you would get very different results. But doing what Gene and Bob say does work in my experience too.

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Jan 11, 2019 07:42:57   #
1grumpybear
 
Bipod wrote:
If sensors had infinite dynamic range, then one would never need to set exposure
at all in the camera -- just fix it in post procssing.

But sensors do not have unlimited dynamic range. And the number of stops that
can be encountered in nature is unlimited. Imagine yourself trying to photograph
sunspots. Or the sun rising over a train tunnel. Or just bright snow and shadows on a
sunny winter's day. And once detail has been lost from a blown highlight, there
is no getting it back. (Shadows that look pure black to the naked eye aren't and detail
can be recovered in processing, but not blown highlights..)

In a very contrasty situation, you are going to lose detail in either the shadows, highlights,
or a bit of both. If you leave it up thte camea, you'll get the latter. But that doesn't
necessary look the best.

Shadows that appear pure black sometimess aren't, and the detail can
be restored in processing. But blown highlights are gone forever.

Dialing in 1.5 stops of additional exposure (over what the meter calculates) is
asking for blown highlights. But of course, it depends on what and where one
phtographs.

What's a "seasoned pro" -- some guy who takes passport photos? Or school pictures?

The statement "+1.5 exposure comp because that's where white sits on the spectrum"
makes no sense at all. White isn't in the spectrum--it's a mixture of spectral colors
(according to some guy named Isaac Newton--but then, he wasn't a "seasoned pro").

But there's a another reason not to ignore exposure and then try to fix it in post-processing:
you may not remember how the original scene looked. For example, in a portrait, you
may have forgotten exactly how light or dark the sitter's complexion was. Whatever it
actually was, in a close up autoexposure will give him an olive complexion (middle tone).

That's how autoexposure works: it takes whatever it meters (average, center-weighted, spot,
matrix or whatever), and adjusts the exposure so it's portrayed as middle gray (or some middle tone).
What else can it do? It doesn't know what it's looking at, or what tone anything actually is. It just
see patterns of light, and applies an algorithm.

Lots of people let their camera chose the exposure -- they just leave it in Program Mode.
Most of the time, that sort of works, provided you're not too particular and are willing to try to
patch it up in post processing.

But the reason one hires a photographer is to get a photographer, not just a camera. If that person
waits until post-processing to try to fix exposure, he's taking a big risk. The event or wedding is
over, no opportunity to try again.

Most camera users today don't make prints and just display images files once or twice on a small,
low-contrast LCD/LED computer monitor. If that's the "final image" then why not leave the camera
in Program Mode, leave it in autofocus, and leave the same zoom lens mounted all the time? No need
for full frame, let along anything larger. And why even bother to keep the lens clean--nobody will
notice a few fingerprints.

I find this extremely depressing.
If sensors had infinite dynamic range, then one wo... (show quote)


Well written.
I will try to simplify. Profile your camera. By profiling your camera you will know where you lose texture to left and to the right. (ETTR or ETTL) Depending on what you are shooting you will know how much you can push it.

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Jan 11, 2019 08:18:35   #
traderjohn Loc: New York City
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
If he's a "seasoned pro," seems unlikely he's not getting the results he wants (doing the same thing over and over, expecting a different result? )

On the other hand, for purposes of most of us here, it would good to learn more details, such as your mention of light (consistent, no extremes?) and conditions. A single comment out of a possible wider discussion could be misleading.

On the third hand, when shooting jpg with my bridge camera, slight under-exposure was preferred over slight over-exposure for tweaking in pp. Jpg only, bridge camera, about 2/3 stop.
If he's a "seasoned pro," seems unlikely... (show quote)


Ok so "the pro" is not a "seasoned pro" He is a false pro. There was no mention of he shooting in jpg.

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Jan 11, 2019 08:27:14   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
catchlight.. wrote:
It is amazing how exposing to the right is kind of like a religion or belief that is cult driven...


Yes, it is - as well as shooting raw in general !

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Jan 11, 2019 09:33:19   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
On its face value, it has merit. However, there is a lot being left out of this statement. For ETTR to work best, spot metering should be used along with spot metering on the very brightest part of the scene. Secondly, one needs to know how their camera reacts to the exposure being pushed. I use ETTR with The Zone System almost 100% of the time. However, that was after extensive testing and profiling the camera and various lenses I use.

I recently purchased a "new" camera. I've yet to actually use it to photograph anything but exposure charts. I need to know how the camera responds to additional exposure. What I don't agree with in the statement is a fixed amount of additional exposure. That should be determined by the scene and the desired placement of the high luminance values.
--Bob

gessman wrote:
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro that he shoots everything in Raw with +1.5 exposure comp because that's where white sits on the spectrum and therefore his whites are always spot on and very little is ever blown out. I haven't tried it yet but at first glance it would seem to have some merit. On one hand it sounds a little prerposterous to suggest that would be a valid approach but wouldn't that just be the same thing as ETTR? (Exposing To The Right) Anyone care to discuss this idea?
I recently saw a statement made by a seasoned pro ... (show quote)

Reply
Jan 11, 2019 09:44:00   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
One could instead simply consult the histogram to see where the exposure values lie. And then adjust settings accordingly.
rmalarz wrote:
On its face value, it has merit. However, there is a lot being left out of this statement. For ETTR to work best, spot metering should be used along with spot metering on the very brightest part of the scene. Secondly, one needs to know how their camera reacts to the exposure being pushed. I use ETTR with The Zone System almost 100% of the time. However, that was after extensive testing and profiling the camera and various lenses I use.

I recently purchased a "new" camera. I've yet to actually use it to photograph anything but exposure charts. I need to know how the camera responds to additional exposure. What I don't agree with in the statement is a fixed amount of additional exposure. That should be determined by the scene and the desired placement of the high luminance values.
--Bob
On its face value, it has merit. However, there is... (show quote)

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Jan 11, 2019 10:01:45   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
via the lens wrote:
Can you support that statement, please, that "Today much more detail is stored in the shadow areas." What you have stated is contrary to my knowledge of digital sensors so I'd be interested in seeing the supporting material. ....

I can, but with reservations. See my thread on Severe underexposure.

Note that this image was underexposed about 4 stops but there was still a lot of information that could be recovered in the shadows:



It was taken with a full frame camera that has a wide DR of a scene with a relatively narrow DR. This was a convenient pairing of the camera's DR with the scene's DR.

As I stated in the thread, so much underexposure is not a safe practice. However, with modern cameras it's safer to underexpose a little than to overexpose and risk blowing the highlights. If you don't know what you are doing, ETTR is not a safe practice.

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Jan 11, 2019 10:16:16   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
The histogram reveals the values based on the camera processed jpg and not the RAW image. Thus, the histogram values can be misleading.
--Bob
anotherview wrote:
One could instead simply consult the histogram to see where the exposure values lie. And then adjust settings accordingly.

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