MRHooker2u wrote:
I have some legacy pre-AI lenses that were used on a Nikon F camera during the 50's and 60's. I had them converted by John White, who I highly recommend, to adapt to a Nikon D750. The lenses work quite well with the D750 and I am more than pleased with the results. My question is: When setting the scene the exposure values are off from the values suggested by PhotoPills. Case in point - The EV value for a bright overcast day is 13. For an aperture of F8.0 @ 100 iso the time value should be 1/125 sec. With those settings the exposure is way too dark. What appears natural is a setting of 1/20 of a sec. Is this a result of using pre-AI lenses on a DSLR? Thanks for your insight.
I have some legacy pre-AI lenses that were used on... (
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You need to identify your “non-CPU” lenses in the menu so that the aperture index (AI) tab in the lens when connected with the aperture feeler in the body, communicate the aperture to the meter.
olemikey
Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida
pesfls wrote:
I suspect bipods answer is your issue, at least it would be on my Df body. So does your 750 have a menu item called “non cpu lenses”? If so enter the data for the lens you want to use and select it. If that’s the issue all will be well and your meter will read as you wish. Hope this is helpful but admit I’ve not used a 750 so am not certain. Worth a look. Good luck.
"Non CPU Lenses" menu item would be my guess too.
I suggest that you NOT convert early Nikon "tick mark" lenses. Like to rare stamps, they are valuable. Google for info. Example:
https://www.cameraquest.com/nftick.htm. On E-Bay sellers want $700 - $2150 for them while later non-tick mark lenses go for less than $100.
What's a tick mark? See photo. They are the little painted lines at each aperture setting. After Nikon made a few of these lenses, they stopped using the tick marks since the lens already had detents at each aperture setting making the marks not needed.
I would like to thank everyone for their insight and comments. I now have a better understanding of the issue.
Screamin Scott wrote:
Why not just use the in-camera meter and adjust as needed? setting settings by an app, to me anyway, is akin to using the old Sunny 16 rule, meaning it isn't as accurate as it can be.
That's an old technique, the Sunny 16 Rule. It worked in most cases. I remember photographers also using external light meters in the past. I'm sure some use the newer version light meters today, that I've seen advertised at B&H Photo. Some photographers just use the guessing method on light, if your camera won't meter light for the lens. It is a skill some do better than others. I don't have a need to do that, with my current Nikon crop sensor DSLR, and lenses. My father owned a Minolta SRT-101 SLR camera, that had a great in camera light meter. He had only a 50mm prime lens on it. Which was standard on cameras back then..
I started out with that Minolta when I got into SLR's
mas24 wrote:
That's an old technique, the Sunny 16 Rule. It worked in most cases. I remember photographers also using external light meters in the past. I'm sure some use the newer version light meters today, that I've seen advertised at B&H Photo. Some photographers just use the guessing method on light, if your camera won't meter light. It is a skill some do better than others. I don't have a need to do that, with my current Nikon crop sensor DSLR, and lenses. My father owned a Minolta SRT-101 SLR camera, that had a great in camera light meter. He had only a 50mm prime lens on it. Which was standard on cameras back then..
That's an old technique, the Sunny 16 Rule. It wor... (
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i use a older 800 mm nikon nikkor ED , for birds .in the program of camera , i set it to non cpu lens , you now it is right is when you set the lens at let say f8 [ max opening ], it will show f8 , if in the non cpu program you select the wrong max f stop of the lens , you will end up with wrong exposure , i mostly shoot in A , and under normal conditions , the exposure is right ., i also use a 400mm tokina f 5.6 , and 2 older T mout lenses , so i hahe to reset the non cpu program .the camera is a D300 .
Perhaps the scene is not as brightly overcast as you think, but only of average brightness. Try exposing for EV 11.
The Nikon Df will accurately meter with any lens without entering its information in the menu.
Yes it will, but not entering the lens info will mean the EXIF info will be inaccurate....
RWR wrote:
The Nikon Df will accurately meter with any lens without entering its information in the menu.
User ID wrote:
Far as I can tell, the "non CPU lens data" thingy
in the menu does nothing more than correct the
exif and VF readings so that they read in f/stop
numbers instead of sequential integers. If you
ignore it, you f/stops are called "1,2,3, ... etc"
instead of the "official" f/stop numbers, BUT it
has no other purpose that I can determine.
The "1, 2, 3 ..." works just fine. Itell you how
many stops down you are from max wide open.
Could use red, orange, yellow ..... blue" instead
of numbers and would not matter. If you look
at the nubers on an ai control ring, they are all
color coded anyway, to match the DoF scale :-)
.
Far as I can tell, the "non CPU lens data&quo... (
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There are some Nikon crop sensor DSLRs, that don't have Non-CPU in the menu.
Screamin Scott wrote:
Yes it will, but not entering the lens info will mean the EXIF info will be inaccurate....
And you also will have no viewfinder readouts or color matrix metering, and will lose some flash features, all of which can be important to many (most?). The manual says entering the data can improve metering accuracy, but in my tests I’ve seen no difference at all.
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