Rich U

I take photos of steam engines at tractor shows from time to time. Also some steam train photos. The engines and trains are black or really dark. When I photograph them, either the sky gets blown out or the engines get to dark. Any idea on camera settings and where to focus to get good shots?

kenievans Loc: Dallas

I can't answer your question but there is a subgroup specifically for trains where I am sure someone can help you.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-131-1.html

Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb

Try HDR. With Photomatix with degohosting you can even remove the movement.

Glenn Harve

Fill fash. Many techniques to try...

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

The photographic difficulties come from the paint choices that some of the rebuilders and operators make. Some use glossy paint which photographs OK after it gets "weathered in" a bit. But others (Like the Union Pacific on their 844 and 3985 locomotives) use a paint that is so flat that it seems to suck absolutely all the light out of the air. I have had good results using high dynamic range photography, as was suggested above, which involves taking a group of images ranging from 3 (or so) f stops underexposed to a similar number of f stops intentionally overexposed. These are then "stacked" together, using information from the dark areas of the overexposed images and the light areas of the underexposed images, producing a reduced overall range of tonality that can be viewed and printed. In addition to helping fix the problem with the flat paint on the locomotives, it also helps bring out the detail in the truck sideframes and other structures that are recessed in the shaded areas under the cars. It can also much improve your images of diesel locomotives in some cases. There are dedicated programs like Photomatix, and there is also an HDR function in Lightroom. You have to learn how to do it, and exactly which images to combine, in order to avoid 'fake' looking images.

I have found HDR to work well with JPEG images. Special problems can arise if you use it with raw images, because it is pretty easy to put together files with more dynamic range than can be properly stored in even the increased number of bits of this file type.

You don't say what camera you are using, but in many cases, you can select a picture control mode that captures images with less contrast for a more simple fix. I prefer this approach when photographing moving equipment, although it won't do as much correction as HDR is capable of.

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Are you shooting RAW as thet will give you a lot more leeway when paost processing.
As far as focus goes - focus on the most important part of the subject and use a small enough aperture to give you enough depth of field.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Exposure bracketing (shooting raw), as suggested above, is one of the best answers - if it's a realistic possibility. If single shot is your only option, it comes down to what your camera is capable of. If you're using a camera with a small sensor you'll never get good results in those sort of circumstances. Hopefully the camera that you're using is at least APS-C or bigger, and a recent model.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

This is fascinating; I never gave a thought to the type of paint on the machines!

Rich U

Thanks for all the replies. I use a Canon t6s. Most of the time there is a problem with a lot of people around so I need to shoot fast. I'll have to try HDR.

Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.

These were done with a P&S, except for the first which was film, a T90: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-532102-1.html

If you have lots of people around, then HDR can be difficult, since you usually need three or five static frames and a tripod. Just managing the light, either with fill in flash or a high ISO could be a way to go. The T6s is plenty capable, my suggestion is that you just need more practice.

And another image, only you can choose the exposure settings, but not the paint job, or the affordances of the situation. This was my brother's funeral, a horse drawn hearse, and a procession led by the King George, but I didn't have much opportunity to capture photos.

Rich U

I agree, I do need more practice. I will make more time for photography. Thanks

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

Keep the sky area to a minimum and let it blow out if it wants to. The image is all about the engine, not how many clouds are in the sky.

Photocraig

In the early days of stealth aircraft, and still in use today on older airframes, radar wave absorbing paint worked wonders to hide even the behemoth sized B52's. So, yeah, painting makes a difference, as does textured finishes of other kind which will tend to absorb (really NOT reflect) light well. It's a subtle exposure issue. Think the tops vs the undersides of certain leaves. Or shiny new car vs old oxidized car or even one with just primer.

What we're capturing is the light reflected from the subject.

nison777 Loc: illinois u.s.a.

I have found using H.D.R. to be very helpful in photographing this type of subject.
Especially if you are working in a shed or barn.
And yes the paint colors can be respected as well.
A polarizer is also very helpful...

traderjohn Loc: New York City

Have you tried, exposure compensation?