mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

You'll need a camera capable of clean high ISO with low noise, a lens with a wide aperture of at least f/2.8 or wider, a high shutter speed of at least 1/500 of a second and probably higher, shoot in raw and clean any residual noise in post processing. If you have a point and shoot, or a lower end camera and a slow lens, and just hope you can accomplish your goal with camera settings or technique you will probably be disappointed.

Edit. I now see you have a 6D and an aperture of f/4 and an ISO of 25,600 and it still too dark. You may need an f/2 lens which will let in twice as much light.

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

Slow your shutter speed down until you get an image. May still be blurry, but your only option without flash

User ID

So true about that .....

Had you considered that editing software
is more capable at cleaning up noise than
it is at fixing up poorly focused images ?

That why I'll seek DoF as priority over a
larger less noisy sensor and the loss of
DoF that accompanies the larger image.

Thaz my personal priority, but I also do
think it's a wise choice for noobies, who
will appreciate sharper looking images,
but are not so likely to print very large
or otherwise suffer from hi-ISO noise.

.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

A monopod is much more practical. It works with most IBIS/ILIS shake reduction so you limit even more camera shake.

When photographing action, it allows support with free movement. You can pan at slow shutter speeds for a blurred background, or use higher speeds to freeze motion and still limit camera shake at long focal lengths.

Monopods are necessary on sidelines of athletic fields, so you can move out of the way if action comes at you.

User ID

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Hopefully the lens has image stabilization.
If not, you should remedy that.

Image stabilization CAN help with subject
motion. Acoarst it won't directly act on it.
It acts directly only upon camera motion.

BUT ! You are so often forced by lack of a
fast shutter speed to nab the moment of
peak action. It's our tendency to "pounce"
on the exact peak moment that typically
invokes more severe camera motion, just
where you really need much less of it. So
that is how stabilization can be beneficial
with active subjects in dim light ;-)

.

Dynamics5

Sounds like there is not much more I could’ve done to capture the moment. Excuse to buy faster lens?!

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Try increasing your ISO (expanded or extended range), however the images will be a lot more noisier.

zzzynick Loc: Colorado

A tripod used in shooting moving objects is a pivot point.
Tripod stuff, 101.
I have monfrotto 393 gimbal head on a 3046 monfrotto tripod.
It's heavey as hell and sturdy as all get out.
It eliminates hand held shakes.
I can pan, or move up and down following any subject, I choose.
Before you bash a idea, try it first.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

I would use shutter speed fast enough to capture kids playing, folks dancing, say about 1/500 sec. I would use auto iso so that you could maintain that shutter speed. I would also stop down the lens 2 stops (this is where most lenses are near their sharpest). Actually, you could shoot manual for the 1/500 sec. and at the stopped down lens suggestion with auto iso.

sxrich

I shot in low light, action ie people moving, for two years, every week, no flash. I understand the Canon 6d is a full frame with very good noise levels. I stepped up from a crop sensor with average speed glass ie variable aperture zooms learning that this combo just couldn't give me the type of images I wanted. So, couple of things. If you are standing a decent distance away from the subjects don't get hung up on DoF which is also contingent upon subject to camera distance. Shooting at 2.8 on most zooms or primes lets in a good amount of light and a lot more than f4 (which is why the lens cost more). Shutter speed, don't go crazy worrying about high speed SS - kids, people dancing, match the focal length of the lens but I shot a lot at 1/250 or above,without VR and froze 90% of the action I needed. I will post some pics. I didn't opt for a monopod as I wanted to move around quickly and lower my height for kids in many cases (personal choice) ISO - I went with autoISO shooting manual and allowed the camera to meter for me and it did an awesome job and ALWAYS picked the lowest possible ISO necessary. Range on my autoISO was 100 to 6400. I captured 1000's of images this way and rarely had an issue with focus, too much noise, blurry images. My recommendations are based on experience. I did spot meter (nikon's term). I shot with 24-70's, 70-200's, 100mm all 2.8's. I also shot with 50, 85 1.8. The first three focused faster than the last two.

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Dynamics5

Wow! Stunning pictures. Really need a 2.8 lens. About $1600...

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Start with a camera that's good in low light.
https://www.borrowlenses.com/blog/best-low-light-camera/
http://www.tufitech.com/cameras/best-camera-for-night-photography/
https://www.adorama.com/alc/404/article/17-best-cameras-digital-low-light-photography-tested-and-compared

Focus -
https://www.lightstalking.com/how-to-focus-in-low-light/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPBpOk_40lU
http://www.kadamsphoto.com/nightphotography/night-photography-tips-infinity-focusing-in-t...
http://starcircleacademy.com/2010/09/focussing-howto/

Low light tips -
https://digital-photography-school.com/6-tips-shoot-low-light-without-tripod/
https://digital-photography-school.com/tips-shooting-low-light/

sxrich

thanks much. i bought my nikon lenses (24-70/70-200) used for 1200 each. i hear the tamrons are very good at 1200 give or take. both canon's are awesome - L series.....however, the 50 1.8 is a dynamite little lens, fast 1.8 and dirt cheap at 217. i love that lens. here is a pic i took at night on the back of a golf cart. football pic is tokina 100mm 2.8 macro and is 339.

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mikeroetex Loc: Lafayette, LA

Impossible to tell without seeing an image or knowing type of camera. Can you post an image?

ole sarg Loc: south florida

Easy get a fast prime lens of at least 2 or lower. Set lens to widest opening. Kick up the ISO to about 1600 and speed to at least 1/200 and shoot away. That's it. You don't need flash, tripod, and other fancy equipment. Oh yes do not use a zoom lens you are in a closed space use your feet!