Nikkor 28-300 has arrived!
Nov 13, 2018 20:29:17 #
jbk224 wrote:
I was thinking of setting the shutter speed to max
out at 1000; auto ISO; aperture at f8-10; Active VR;
Continuous CL; and now center weighted. Thoughts?
I was thinking of setting the shutter speed to max
out at 1000; auto ISO; aperture at f8-10; Active VR;
Continuous CL; and now center weighted. Thoughts?
Fixed ISO, like 640 or 800. No auto anything. f/11
is about right for a 10X zoom. That should get you
a 4-digit fixed shutter speed in M-mode. Chimp the
initial frames and check your histograms for a final
tweak, and then don't change anything. Be sure to
switch on VR. This what it's made for. The "internet
experts" will tell you to forget VR at higher shutter
speeds. Optical VR is just like holding your camera
steadier. Nobody should tell you that just cuz you
use a fast shutter speed you can then exercise any
less care in holding your camera steady. And this is
especially true when your best steadying tricks may
backfire. Your own body, against which you usually
steady your camera, is now subject to the effect of
the chopper. 1/1000 second at 300mm is about the
same as 1/125 at 50mm. Not a bad speed, but not
a major safety margin either.
.
Nov 13, 2018 22:18:47 #
jbk224
Loc: Long Island, NY
So, I've gotten some really emphatic recommendations.
From wide open to F11. Fixed ISO 64...800. VR doesn't work over 500(1000)..to 2000.
If I was going up multiple times I would definitely try different scenarios.
Certain things seem to be constant...or better not constant.
Lighting conditions, I presume, will be changing very quickly during the flight. If this is the case, why would I want to fix my ISO?
And since lighting and reflections will constantly change (and I will be shooting clean and not through any 'prism', and I could not possibly adjust a polarizer in flight; what is the reason to use this filter? Wouldn't more issues ensue with it's use?
Since I am so far away from needing any depth of field; why wouldn't I go wide open 3.5 or 4?
So.....
From wide open to F11. Fixed ISO 64...800. VR doesn't work over 500(1000)..to 2000.
If I was going up multiple times I would definitely try different scenarios.
Certain things seem to be constant...or better not constant.
Lighting conditions, I presume, will be changing very quickly during the flight. If this is the case, why would I want to fix my ISO?
And since lighting and reflections will constantly change (and I will be shooting clean and not through any 'prism', and I could not possibly adjust a polarizer in flight; what is the reason to use this filter? Wouldn't more issues ensue with it's use?
Since I am so far away from needing any depth of field; why wouldn't I go wide open 3.5 or 4?
So.....
Nov 14, 2018 08:27:12 #
David in Dallas wrote:
Some glass does indeed have that problem, especially the coated windows of tour buses. Polarizers can be a problem shooting through those windows.
Safety glass, as used in vehicles, is two sheets of glass with a plastic layer between them. I suspect the plastic of supplying the birefringence, not the glass.
Nov 14, 2018 08:30:15 #
User ID wrote:
A polarizer seems like a reeeeally bad idea. br ... (show quote)
Check your calculations. Noon, 20 degrees latitude, the sun is probably around 70 degrees elevation. Photos from the helicopter are not generally shot at that angle (although there could be exceptions).
A good polarizer will not change the light by more than 1 stop. Not a factor of 4.
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