REJ Loc: Ontario Canada

I just got hold of a three page folder on this subject, It reads good but I can't seem to make it work. Is there any body out there that has had success with it. Thanks in advance. REJ.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I'm not sure which document you were reading. Can you provide a source or link?
--Bob

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Google results show a book from 2014, which supposedly takes the concept of "Expose to the Right" further. What are the points of the premise exactly?

I'm curious about how this discussion thread will develop as four years ago in camera and sensor developments sounds like ancient history

REJ Loc: Ontario Canada

The pages were an exert from that book by Bob Dinatatale. I had the same thoughts 2014 was a long time ago, I just wanted to see if I could make it work. REJ.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

What is he suggesting, and what exactly isn't working for you?

REJ Loc: Ontario Canada

" One zone bracket set." The base exposure will be EV + 1.3 stops more than the camera meters recommended exposure.
First Exposure = +1.3 EV Second Exposure = +0.6 EV Third Exposure = +2.0 EV. I am working with a D810 and I have never made a bracket that consists of 0 +++ where 0 = the meter reading, I have always used + 0 - or - 0 + for my brackets. Another point that I have never done is storing this bracket in the custom setting bank ?????.REJ.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Thanks! Now that we have enough info for those in the know to help, I'll be stepping to the sidelines

BebuLamar

You can't do exactly what you want but you can do the same thing but not exactly what you asked for.
Set the bracketing increment to 2/3 stop.
Set the auto bracketing to +3F.
Set the exposure compensation to +.7
You will have 3 shot of +.7 (same as +.6), + 1.3 and +2. You have the same 3 shots but not in the order you want.

I take that back.
Set your increment to 2/3 stop
Set auto bracketing to 3F
Set exposure compensation to +1.3
You will have what you want.

REJ Loc: Ontario Canada

Thanks, I'll give your system a try. REJ.

User ID

You are just describing a very simple thing
but making it sound complex. Look at it in
another way:

ALL 3-frame brackets are "-, 0, and +" [you
can change the shooting order, but that will
not alter the 3 exposures].

Sticking with the above order [-,0,+] you
should NEVER think about a "0,+1,+2" or
a "+1,+2,+3" bracket. Look at all the new
numbers that introduces, for no reason !
All the bracket patterns mentioned in this
paragraph are alike. They are all "-,0,+".
But one of them has an exposure bias of
+1EV [on the whole bracket] and another
has an exposure bias of +2EV [always on
the WHOLE bracket].

You can take your basic unchanging "-,0,+"
bracket to +5 [on the whole bracket], or
wherever you wanna take it, but it's still
"-,0,+", and the exposure biasing remains
a separate matter.

This works in AE or in ME. In AE you use
the biasing dial. In ME you change your
basic setting, only ONE leg on the triad of
"aperture-shutter-ISO", to whatever bias
you intend.


`

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Ah, OK. Yup, there do seem to be some gaps in that. However, being an excerpt from a book, I'd grant a bit of slack on its completeness.

I wouldn't worry about the date, as exposure works the same year to year. The only thing that will improve is the dynamic range, etc. One needs to do some very controlled tests on their particular camera/lens combinations. Just winging it with someone else's data is risky.
--Bob

MikeT9

It doesn’t matter how much development in cameras and sensors take place, data taken when a picture is taken, is stored as a linear progression from right to left. This means half the data is stored in the rightmost bar showing in the histogram on the back of the camera and half on the remaining data in the next bar and half the remaining in the next and so on. This means there is minimal data in the shadows side and maximum in the highlight side. Using this with ETTR, reducing the exposure in post processing and dragging the histogram more uniformly across to the left is redistributing more data than increasing the exposure and redistributing considerably less data towards the highlights. It also increases noise.
People tend to using the flashing blinkies in the camera to warn them about over exposure and loss of nightlight detail. An interesting thing to do is, obviously shooting in raw, is to take a set of pictures in manual of a neutral grey sky and increase the exposure compensation 1/3 of a stop at a time. When you get to the warning flashes go back one and note the file number. Now carrying on taking pictures increasing the exposure 1/3 stops right the way across. Now load them into photoshop (for example) and look at the camera raw histogram you will find, I certainly did, that what flashed up on your camera as a highlight warning is nowhere near the far right hand side of the cameras raw histogram. I found that you could go 1 and 2/3rds over the camera highlight warning until camera raw histogram started showing the picture was over exposed. It’s worth knowing how your camera performs.

traderjohn Loc: New York City

It's always good to know your limitations.

anotherview Loc: California

Keeping it simple, I edge the exposure rightward to keep the Levels exposure graphic in the rightmost segment of the Histogram, before the "blinkies" begin. I obtain rich exposures this way. This approach works for me.

Besides, with the latest iterations of DSLRs, the noise in the leftmost segment of the graphic has been dramatically reduced.