rb61 Loc: Maple Grove, MN

I have a camera with In Body Image Stabilization. If I am using a flash to shoot small objects at close distances do I need to utilize image stabilization? I will not be using a tripod.

If you need more detail let me know.

Thanks

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

What is driving this concern? Check your camera manual and see if it can detect a tripod. That would be the only candidate time to disable the stabilization. For the most part, leave it one and never think about it other than to be thankful for the benefits of modern technology. You can test for your own skills on whether you're more successful with / without, that's the relevant measure.

rb61 Loc: Maple Grove, MN

It would be a small convenience. Right now my camera is either on a tripod capturing birds in the backyard with a legacy lens or shooting tabletop - flipping back and forth quite often. It is my understanding that my camera cannot sense a tripod and my tests show that turning off stabilization has made a big improvement with a long legacy lens on a tripod.

I was wondering if the short flash duration who stop any camera motion when hand holding the camera.

Probably more of a hypothetical question at this point.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Flash duration on these units are very brief. Enough to freeze camera motion. If that’s all that is lighting the subject, don’t worry about it. I keep VR on ally the time. If the ambient light is helping the exposure, VR may be of some benefit.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Your camera is not likely to detect a tripod that isn’t there. The flash duration will be short enough to cancel out any camera motion. It won’t hurt to leave stabilization on, but it will only serve to waste battery power.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

It depends.

If the flash is set up as the primary light source... as "full" flash.... typically it's like a 1/720 shutter speed. That's fast enough to counteract any camera shake from reasonably steady hand holding with all but the longest lenses. It also can freeze all but the fastest subject movement.

But if the flash is set up as "fill"... where the ambient light is the main source and the flash fires at reduced power to supplement ambient... then ghosting can result. Below is an example where this was done deliberately (panning with a 1/30 shutter speed, flash set to fill which is about -1.66 stops relative to ambient light.... and rear curtain sync so the "movement" of the flash would be behind the subject's movement, rather than in front of it.... approx. 50mm focal length on an APS-C camera)...



Original poster mentioned working with flash close up.... Depending upon exactly how close, that can be tricky. Standard flash may be too powerful, even at it's most reduced settings. I have two macro flashes for close-up work... a ringlight with a guide number of 14 meters and a twinlight with two flash heads, each with a guide number of 24 meters. In comparison, my standard flash units all have upward of 180 meter guide numbers.

It is possible to use a "regular" flash for close-up work.... but you'll likely need to diffuse it somehow. It will take some experimentation, but doesn't need to be difficult or fancy. For example, I sometimes use standard "too powerful" flashes for close-up by putting a 2 or 3 layers of white gauze bandage over the flash head, held in place with a rubber band. Nuthin' fancy, but it works....



I used the above rig (handheld with the off-camera shoe cord shown) to take the shot below...

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

--Bob

tropics68 Loc: Georgia

[quote=amfoto1]It depends.
I used the above rig (handheld with the off-camera shoe cord shown) to take the shot below...




You are very fortunate to be that steady. Ain't no way I could hold any camera in one hand and a flash in the other and get anywhere near the sharpness of that mantis image.

To me a tripod is priceless unless I can set the camera on a boulder and use a remote trigger.

rb61 Loc: Maple Grove, MN

>>Original poster mentioned working with flash close up.... Depending upon exactly how close, that can be tricky. Standard flash may be too powerful, even at it's most reduced settings.>>

I discovered this immediately. Before it died, had been using a large handle METZ at 1/4 power. Since I am still learning how to use this new flash, I couldn't find the right combination of buttons that set the power. I tried 2 test shots and found that I could use the exposure compensation dial on the camera to zero it in. -must dig into that 35 page manual soon...

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Most Speedlites that I have used have a 7 or 8 stop range of output. Many DSLRs have 2 to 3 stops of flash exposure compensation too. If you can get the flash off camera and control or sync it with a cord that will also help. Then there are still modifiers and technique that can be factors. It is a broad topic you can research on YouTube and the web too. Best of luck.