LaughBrian Loc: Tn

whats the diff from macro to normal shots. andwhat does macro mean?????

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Macro generally means extreme close-up.

A macro lens should be able to produce a full size (1:1) image on the sensor (1cm image covers 1cm of sensor). Some lenses have a "macro" setting even if they can only get down to 1:3 (1cm object makes a .333cm image).

Macro lenses also focus to infinity, so a macro photo is simply one that is close to the 1:1 magnification.

LaughBrian Loc: Tn

thank you for the info... i have lens that have macro settings but cant figure out what that means?

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

UHH has an entire forum dedicated to "True Macro-Photography".
Read the first two (2) threads here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html

wteffey Loc: Ocala, FL USA

If you want to fill the frame with a butterfly (for example), a good close focus lens with a macro setting will probably do very nicely. If you want to fill the frame with a butterfly's head, that's true macro, for which you probably need a real macro lens. True macro success is difficult to achieve because the depth of field is razor thin. Often special equipment, such as a ring flash and a focus rail is beneficial, in addition to a macro lens.

wilsondl2 Loc: Lincoln, Nebraska

No one as mentioned that a true macro lens has a flat field design so the edges a sharp. Regular lenses that say they are macro will be soft in cornars and at the edge. I have yet to figure out the 1:1 thing. If you do 1:1 on a 35mm size sensor will be bigger than on a crop. If you shoot 4X5 at 1:1 and shot it you could fit in a full size tea cup. I do not think that would be a macro shot. Anyway it baffels me. - Dave

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Flatness of field is mentioned in one of the links, I should have said that in my initial response.

Yes, a 1:1 photo on a 4x5 negative is macro by definition. A 4" teacup will produce a 4" image. Also, 1:1 on 8x10 is also macro. An 8" plate would make an 8" image. We are just accustomed to thinking of macro as applying to small things on small sensors or film formats.

In all cases, a 1:1 magnification would require 4x as much exposure or a 2 f-stop adjustment. This is automatically taken care of by a TTL meter but the adjustment needs to be made if you use a separate spot meter.

jmdusty Loc: greater DaytonOh. area

Many many years ago when I was doing a lot of commercial technical work, I used a Miranda 35 slr that had a unique feature. It not only had it's propriatery lens mount, it also had a standard Pentax threaded body. That allowed me to take the 50 mm lens off, turn it around and screw it back in to use as a macro lens. Don't remember if it was a true 1:1, but worked quite well on small parts for use in tech manuals, many smaller than a quarter. Today I have a Promaster EDO AF LD 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 tele-macro (1:2) ^62 (don't have o with vert line through it) That I use on my Pentax *istD L and can get right down on a quarter for coin proofing uses. Neither may be true "macros", but they get the job done.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Here's a good video to watch with some amazing macro photography...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqRn3at0H60&feature=bf_prev&list=FLhNbPp1iLx1iyOuLTWV4BeA

LaughBrian Loc: Tn

Thanks for all the help you guys rock.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

The crop factor does figure in to the output equation... A 1:1 lens is going to produce an image on the camera's media that is the same size as the object itself, so the crop factor will apply to the output, I use a canon c-sensor camera as far as output is concerned when compared to the old 35mm format I am shooting at 1.6:1 even though the lens is actually limited to it's one to one reproduction... It is the same thing for any lens... the 10-22 lens that I used to have actually shot at 10-22mm but as far as output is concerned it was the equivalent to 16-35mm lens on a 35mm camera. The crop factor is really just a factor that explains the ratios of enlarging to the same sized output between differently sized sensors, and they use the old 35mm film as the basis.

I don't know if I have explained that in a manner that is easily understood, but for example, if Nikonian shoots with the same image with his nikon camera that I shoot with my Canon... and we both have our macro lenses set to the 1:1 magnification because his sensor is larger if we were to print our uncropped image to the same sized media, the subject in my print would appear larger than it would be in Nikonian's print.

LaughBrian Loc: Tn

i have a canon xti its not a full frame camera (i think very new to this) but i do think i understand. and thank for your help.

oldmalky Loc: West Midlands,England.

Neat. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Here is a method everyone can use to understand the "macro" capability of any lens:
1.) Set your lens to Manual focus, and to Minimum Focusing Distance (as close as it will focus);
2.) Physically move entire camera & lens in-&-out towards subject, until focus is observed;
3.) Take photo.

All APS-C size sensors are quite close to 24-mm wide x 16-mm high.
A U.S. quarter is 24-mm diameter, and a U.S. dime is 17-mm diameter.
A true 1:1 image at MFD will capture the below photograph. If your image has any space between quarter & side, or between dime & top/bottom, your lens is not a macro lens, no matter what manufacturer printed on lens barrel.

17-mm Dime & 24-mm Quarter macro field on a Nikon APS-C sensor at MFD

LaughBrian Loc: Tn