JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

And you're not going to clue us in to how you do that?

BebuLamar

Use the AE lock and EC and program shift features. Point the camera at different light level (not necessary the subject) until the meter indicates the exposure that you want. If there is no light level that match what you want you can use some combination of the EC to get it. Then lock the exposure with AE lock. Then use the program shift features to shift it to the combination of shutter speed and aperture that you want.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

HUGELY important point!

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

It depends what mode you are using.
In non-auto, you get to select whether you want aperture or shutter priority. You can also use spot metering when needed.
You would still be using the light meter, just more efficiently or effectively.

G Brown Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK

No reason whatsoever. They will both give you a mid range suggested setting. To replicate why some people swear by using a meter.....you need to point your camera at both the brightest and darkest areas of the shot you intend to take and then decide how far from either suggested settings you want to be, to get your the 'correct' image. (or you can turn around and read what the camera settings are and input those in Aperture or shutter before taking the shot. Another 'average' light solution)

NB Your white balance setting and ISO will alter the settings no matter which method you use. Generally you use the lowest ISO setting that allows a sharp image where movement or light is 'problematical'.

Often you don't need to buy Kit when you can learn a 'work-around'

Have fun and question everything

mgoldfield

You know what your subject is, you know if your subject is moving, you know what depth of field you need to realize the shot you want; Auto hasn't the faintest idea!

A light meter suggests or advises; you decide - because you are the photography; Auto is a computer program!

M.Goldfield

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Your camera meter is infinitely superior in reflected light situations. It can do spot metering, average metering among other modes depending on the camera. You know exactly what you are metering because you see through the lens. In general a hand held meter is a guess only.
Now there are incident readings in studio or similar situations but that is totally impractical in most situations. Hard to get an incident reading at the bottom of the Grand Canyon when on the rim.

So learn your in camera meter and modes well and it will be better than any hand held meter. Some say it is a suggestion and 18% gray etc. Well the hand held meter is just a suggestion as well and is no different. There are algorithms in your camera that do a wonderful job of averaging and other things on auto to give you excellent photos most every time. Yes, there are situations where the camera gets fooled (And the exact same for all hand held meters) and you need to understand those exceptions and what to do to make the needed adjustment. That takes practice, but, with digital now you get immediate feedback and can immediately make the adjustment. You must understand your camera's features to do this though.

This is why hand held meters are not top sellers like they were in the past. There are older and older style cameras with out meters where one is needed and those who have them know what is involved.

For you though you can't do better than what is in your camera meter wise and hand held cannot come close to what your in camera meter can do with the extremely few exceptions I noted.

Use your camera, if the exposure looks right to you then guess what? It IS right.

mgoldfield

I concur 100%!

ELNikkor

don't use either! Set the camera on manual, take a guess exposure, then look at the screen and make adjustments until it looks right. After awhile, your guesses will be pretty accurate.

anotherview Loc: California

Your question brings up the adage that there exists more than one way to skin a cat.

For my part, I suggest concerning yourself first with the composition of your photograph to produce a result flattering to the subject.

Then adjust exposure for the same purpose. The camera meter usually comes close enough to gauge proper exposure. But if not, then use exposure compensation to fine tune exposure.

Consult the histogram. It depicts exposure. As a rule, you will want the exposure setting to capture highlights without blowing them out.

Another approach goes more to your question. Manually set aperture and shutter speed to suit your intention. Set ISO to Auto, to let the camera exposure system determine the correct ISO. Adjust exposure compensation if needed.

Note that the camera metering system reads the light reflected from the scene shown in the frame of the viewfinder.

A light meter can read both the reflected light and the incident light (the light falling on the subject). Some photographers swear by the light meter. Most others depend on the camera exposure system.

Yes, I have generalized here. Your own practice and experience will tell you how best to set exposure.

I hope my reply helps with this big matter in photography.

Have a good day.

Low Budget Dave

From watching a few professional photographers, here is what they appear to be doing:
1. They take bunches of pictures over the course of years, and learn what their equipment does in each situation in each setting.
2. They evaluate the scene, and adjust the settings ahead of time to get the combination of speed, ISO, and aperture they want.
3. They take a test shot to see if they got it right, and adjust accordingly.
4. If they don't have time for a test shot, or if the shot is really critical, then they bracket the exposure.

I am sure there are situations that call for light meters, it is just that I have never personally observed them.

mizzee Loc: Boston,Ma

Try switching to P or program mode. This setting will automatically choose settings BUT you are able to tweak them to produce an image to your liking. This is sort of a first step to mastering complete control of your camera and the images you and it produce.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Is it better?

srt101fan

You are getting answers that are all over the photographic landscape...

Just curious, if you're still following this thread, has your question been answered?

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

You are referring to two different types of meters. A "regular" ambient meter like a Gossen Luna-pro and an ambient spotmeter like a Pentax, Minolta, or Sekonic spotmeter. Cameras can also have pseudo-spotmetering as well. And then there area a vast family of flash meters. Not essentially all that new though. Just all digital now with more functions and programming.