Sharpness/crisp images -lens options for D500
Sep 10, 2018 13:59:26 #
drmjp429
Loc: CT
I shoot RAW with D500 mostly landscape, but also more broadly. I typically shoot A priority but for moving subjects I will change to S priority. My main lens has been Nikon 18-200 f3.5-5.6 G ED VR but I use Tokina 12-24 2.8-4 and Sigmas 28-105 f2.8-4 & 17-35 f2.8-4.
My images simply lack the sharpness/crispness that I've seen in prints by others.
I've been working at technique to help ( e.g. I use tripods when appropriate and remote shutter controls) but realize that these lenses have some age and lenses have improved alot in the past few years.
So suggestions for lens options that take far better advantage of the D500 would be appreciated to get me that sharpness I want.
Thank you for specific recommendations on both lenses and technique issues.
Marty
My images simply lack the sharpness/crispness that I've seen in prints by others.
I've been working at technique to help ( e.g. I use tripods when appropriate and remote shutter controls) but realize that these lenses have some age and lenses have improved alot in the past few years.
So suggestions for lens options that take far better advantage of the D500 would be appreciated to get me that sharpness I want.
Thank you for specific recommendations on both lenses and technique issues.
Marty
Sep 10, 2018 14:18:54 #
Sep 10, 2018 14:24:16 #
67skylark27
Loc: Fort Atkinson, WI
Post some images of what you are unhappy with. Then post the settings of them,
that alone may tell the story of why your sharpness is lacking.
that alone may tell the story of why your sharpness is lacking.
Sep 10, 2018 14:58:02 #
drmjp429 wrote:
I shoot RAW with D500 mostly landscape, but also m... (show quote)
Glass makes a difference!
I have a Nikon 18-200 f3-5-5.6 I use for street shooting (much of it calm and supported-as with leaning against things) and a Nikon 70-200mm f4 lens I use at the Botanical Garden (hand held, occasional support). People, flowers, and trees are common comparative subjects. Both used on a D7100.
The pictures shot with the 70-200 are ALWAYS clearer on comparative shots.
Technique is very important, a tripod is usually a positive, but you can not get there without the glass.
Boris
Sep 10, 2018 16:22:45 #
sandiegosteve
Loc: San Diego, CA
Do you have a friend with a prime lens you can borrow? Or maybe a camera shop. To the point above, glass makes a huge difference. Primes are the sharpest. Lenses with constant aperture are usually very sharp and lenses with a large zoom range and variable aperture aren't as sharp. There are trade offs for each one; price, weight, sharpness, max aperture are examples.
For any given piece of glass, stopping down aperture a bit helps (try f8). For a lens with that much zoom range, some of it will be sharper than others. I don't know that lens. And then you may need to fine tune your auto focus. It can be hard to tell if it is focus or shake, but by eliminating factors you can figure it out.
For any given piece of glass, stopping down aperture a bit helps (try f8). For a lens with that much zoom range, some of it will be sharper than others. I don't know that lens. And then you may need to fine tune your auto focus. It can be hard to tell if it is focus or shake, but by eliminating factors you can figure it out.
Sep 10, 2018 17:25:11 #
Strodav
Loc: Houston, Tx
I would look for a prime lens for ultimate sharpness. For landscapes, look at Sigma 24mm f1.4 Art or the Nikon version, but its more expensive. If you are still having sharpness problem with this lens, it is not the lens. My go to lens is a Tamron 24-70mm f2.8, which is very sharp with a lot of flexibility you don't get with a prime. I have never worried about sharpness with that lens on either my D500 or D7200.
Shutter speed is a big factor in sharpness handheld, but even on a tripod you can get shake when the mirror goes up or not so gently pushing the shutter button. Need to use a remote trigger and can use live view for landscapes at slow shutter speeds. Need to avoid small apertures due to diffraction, which can soften an image. See if your lens / body combination is sharp. Best way to check is to hang a resolution chart in brighter light (I put it on my backyard fence) then shoot in Live View and AF with aperture wide open. Take several shots in AF. The LV should be razor sharp and if the AF images are soft, you can try to use fine tune to walk it in.
Shutter speed is a big factor in sharpness handheld, but even on a tripod you can get shake when the mirror goes up or not so gently pushing the shutter button. Need to use a remote trigger and can use live view for landscapes at slow shutter speeds. Need to avoid small apertures due to diffraction, which can soften an image. See if your lens / body combination is sharp. Best way to check is to hang a resolution chart in brighter light (I put it on my backyard fence) then shoot in Live View and AF with aperture wide open. Take several shots in AF. The LV should be razor sharp and if the AF images are soft, you can try to use fine tune to walk it in.
Sep 10, 2018 17:31:20 #
Until Nikon worked on one of my lenses I never had to use this feature, but the camera has an AF fine tune option.
Look carefully at your images. If the area in front of or behind the subject is consistently sharper than the subject, you made need to do some tuning.
Steve Perry has a video on the subject that is worth watching.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5cHhrWF-pqM
---
Look carefully at your images. If the area in front of or behind the subject is consistently sharper than the subject, you made need to do some tuning.
Steve Perry has a video on the subject that is worth watching.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5cHhrWF-pqM
---
Sep 10, 2018 18:36:11 #
drmjp429 wrote:
I shoot RAW with D500 mostly landscape, but also m... (show quote)
The lenses you have should be getting you sharp shots with the right technique! Age of the lenses has pretty much nothing to do with it. Some of my sharpest lenses are about 50 years old!
Sep 10, 2018 20:07:34 #
Post some of your photos and be sure to check the "store original" box. We can look at the metadata to have a better understanding. The soft photos could be from front or back focusing issues, shooting at very large or very small aperture settings.
The image resolution of the Nikon 18-200mm varies a lot with the focal length. Here is an image resolution chart for that lens at its center.
The image resolution of the Nikon 18-200mm varies a lot with the focal length. Here is an image resolution chart for that lens at its center.
Nikon 18-200mm center
Nikon 18-200mm edge
I took this photo with my Nikon D500 and Nikon 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6
(Download)
Sep 10, 2018 21:12:09 #
Post some example images.
For moving subjects your decision on Autofocus Mode is probably more important than shutterspeed. Are you using AF-C?
Next important question, what AF-Area Mode are you using? If these questions are new topics, visit your manual after posting some examples and being sure to store the originals as attachments.
For moving subjects your decision on Autofocus Mode is probably more important than shutterspeed. Are you using AF-C?
Next important question, what AF-Area Mode are you using? If these questions are new topics, visit your manual after posting some examples and being sure to store the originals as attachments.
Sep 10, 2018 22:04:47 #
drmjp429 wrote:
I shoot RAW with D500 mostly landscape, but also m... (show quote)
You've got three decent lenses - the Nikon, Tamron and the 17-35 - all three are capable of good crisp images.
The 28-105 is a paperweight.
This image was shot hand-held with the Nikkor 18-200 and a 10 mp D200. Posting an example or two would help. Post processing is key to getting the most out of a raw file and the gear that you have. Prime lenses are not automatically sharper than good zoom lenses, though most primes are intended for full frame, so you are likely to have more uniform image quality across the frame.
Sep 11, 2018 06:43:26 #
In addition to all the other suggestions, try going to the "SD" (standard) "Set Picture Control" setting and move the "Sharpening" value all the way to the right, and the "Contrast" one or two to the right. Take a few photos and see if they look sharper. I usually shoot on "Neutral", but have the "SD" ready for when the scenes call for maximum crispness.
Sep 11, 2018 07:27:48 #
drmjp429 wrote:
I shoot RAW with D500 mostly landscape, but also m... (show quote)
Not to be snarky... but, do you post-process your RAW images? If not, your images will appear flat and/or not sharp or vibrant in color. The magic of Lightroom and other programs is that they can and will enhance every bit of a photograph to suit your eye. That is the power of RAW image processing.
If you do post-process the RAW images, then the camera settings or your technique may be faulty. The best thing now is to post some example shots so that the fine UHH folks here can offer specific help.
Sep 11, 2018 09:53:49 #
It is not difficult to find a sharp lens today since all lens manufacturers have access to the same technology. Tolerances are better with professional lenses but sharpness depends more on us than on the lens. Use good photographic techniques and any of the lenses you own will reward you with sharp images.
Of the lenses you have mentioned I use the 18-200 with my old D7000 to entire satisfaction. I do my part and the lens does its part.
Of the lenses you have mentioned I use the 18-200 with my old D7000 to entire satisfaction. I do my part and the lens does its part.
Sep 11, 2018 12:01:07 #
jackpinoh
Loc: Kettering, OH 45419
drmjp429 wrote:
I shoot RAW with D500 mostly landscape, but also m... (show quote)
Your problem is probably that you have lower quality lenses. Figure out what focal length (not lens) you use the most. Buy a high quality prime lens that is at or close to that focal length.
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