I know this is a focusing method but how does it work?
yahalomi wrote:
I know this is a focusing method but how does it work?
It works very well. Check out our ‘search’ function for great, detailed information.
yahalomi wrote:
I know this is a focusing method but how does it work?
Not very well, actually. The more you study the question, the less attractive the concept becomes.
See
HYPERFOCAL DISTANCE The fundamental problem with using the hyperfocal distance is that everything at infinity and at 1/2 the hyperfocal distance will be equally fuzzy and out of focus. That will become obvious as soon as you decide to crop the image and enlarge it.
I always felt that it worked much better with Primes than with Zooms, but then (generally speaking) Primes are sharper than Zooms anyway. When I go out shooting landscapes with my Primes, I use Hyperfocal Distance focusing often. Perhaps I'm not as critical as some.
By focusing on an object 1/3 of the way into your scene instead of the focusing the nearest or farthest object you will be maximizing depth of field. Keep in mind that the sharpest area will always be the 1/3 point of focus. Although reasonable sharpness will carry throughout, you could be reducing sharpness on the most important part of your scene. I recommend multiple exposures if possible, while focusing on various points to be sure. You could also try multiple exposure focus-masking in PS. Also- also avoid using the smallest aperture on your lens when possible.
selmslie wrote:
Not very well, actually. The more you study the question, the less attractive the concept becomes.
See
HYPERFOCAL DISTANCE The fundamental problem with using the hyperfocal distance is that everything at infinity and at 1/2 the hyperfocal distance will be equally fuzzy and out of focus. That will become obvious as soon as you decide to crop the image and enlarge it.
Actually, using the concept of hyperfocal distance does work pretty well. However, in addition to where in the image one focuses, what f/stop one is using is the other variable. If you don't use and understand both, your results may be as you describe.
mrjcall wrote:
Actually, using the concept of hyperfocal distance does work pretty well. However, in addition to where in the image one focuses, what f/stop one is using is the other variable. If you don't use and understand both, your results may be as you describe.
I understand the topic very well.
I suggest that you follow the link I provided above.
You might also take a look at
What is wrong with Depth of Field and Hyperfocal Distance?
Thanks for that but I’m still missing important details which include, I think f-stops. I seem to remember that there is a formula for this. The problem for me is that I haven’t shot 35mm film since the 1980’s so I’m starting over again. It’s a challenge, no question and I really appreciate your input.
yahalomi wrote:
Thanks for that but I’m still missing important details which include, I think f-stops. I seem to remember that there is a formula for this. The problem for me is that I haven’t shot 35mm film since the 1980’s so I’m starting over again. It’s a challenge, no question and I really appreciate your input.
Yes, there is a simple formula for hyperfocal distance:
H = f + (f^2)/Nc where f is the lens focal length, N is the lens f-number and c is the circle of confusion for a given image format. For more information, see
Depth of fieldOnce you calculate
H, finding the near and far DOF limits is trivial.
But you need to look into the links I provided before you delve into the algebra. You may conclude that it's not worth losing any sleep over.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
Tomfl101 wrote:
By focusing on an object 1/3 of the way into your scene instead of the focusing the nearest or farthest object you will be maximizing depth of field. Keep in mind that the sharpest area will always be the 1/3 point of focus. Although reasonable sharpness will carry throughout, you could be reducing sharpness on the most important part of your scene. I recommend multiple exposures if possible, while focusing on various points to be sure. You could also try multiple exposure focus-masking in PS. Also- also avoid using the smallest aperture on your lens when possible.
By focusing on an object 1/3 of the way into your ... (
show quote)
This is the photographic equivalent of an old wive's tale.
Focal length, distance to subject, aperture will all impact the distribution of the depth of field. Rather than post a series of screen grabs of a DoF calculator, I will describe the distribution of DoF for one lens, one camera several distances and apertures.
D800, 55mm lens F16 focused at 10ft - 26% in front, 74% behind
F5.6 - 42% and 58%
F2.8 - 46% and 54%
Focused at 20 ft
F16 - 2% and 98%
F5.6 - 33% and 67% - this is the only time it supports your claim
F2.8 - 42% and 58%
As you can see, that rule is pretty much nonsense. But a lot of photographers do indeed swear by this.
It was so much easier when the camera manuals would say place the infinity symbol over the set F-Stop. The F-Stop on the other side of center lined up with the closet in focus distance.
It worked fairly well.
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billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
yahalomi wrote:
I know this is a focusing method but how does it work?
Hyperfocal distance, at its simplest, is the focusing distance that gives your photos the greatest depth of field. For example, consider a landscape where you want everything — foreground and background — to appear sharp. If you focus on the foreground, the background will appear blurry in the image. And if you focus on the background, the foreground will look out of focus! How do you fix this? Simple: you focus at a particular point between the foreground and the background, which makes both the foreground and the background elements of the scene appear reasonably sharp. This focusing point is called the hyperfocal distance.
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